first time starting
Turbo Mini Forums

hi all, on saturday ill be trying to start my turbo engine for the first time.
The engines all bolted in properly and plumbed in. Apart from the electric fuel pump which ill put on on saturday, wot else do i need to do? Is it rite that ill need to fit larger diameter fuel pipe, also i think will_h said that i could put a t-piece into the fuel line before the pressure regulator for a return? any tips for first time starting as it is a rebuilt engine? its in the capable hands of my grumpy mechanic mate but il appreciate some extra help.

cheers ben.

Most important thing for starting any new engine is to make sure you have oil pressure up when cranking on the starter before you allow it to fire up. This is VITAL!! Engines have been scrapped by people not adhering to this practise!

This is my procedure:
Firstly, Take the plugs out, and squirt a little oil into the bores. Jack up a wheel, put the gearbox into 4th, and rotate the wheel to get the oil nicely covering the bores. Don't re-fit the plugs yet.

Now take off the oil cooler union above the oil pressure switch, make a little 'funnel' out of card or foil or something, and back-fill this hole with engine oil. With one wheel still jacked up, and 4th engaged, turn the wheel backards 1/4 of a turn. Now fill the union again. Repeat, and repeat again... Basically, it's back-filling and priming the pump. Re-connect the oil union.

Now (with it out of gear) crank the engine over on the starter. If no oil pressure after 30seconds, repeat all the above. And again. and again.

Once the oil pressure rises, you'll hear the cranking speed change. Continue cranking for another 20 seconds. Leave for a few minutes, then crank again to check that oil presure is built quickly on the starter (no more than 10seconds absolute MAX - should be nearer to 2/3 seconds ideally).

Re-fit plugs, give everything a final once-over, Have a fire extinguisher to hand, connect the coil, and crank her up.
Once it fires up, keep it running at 2-3000 rpm for 10-15 seconds, then shut down. Inspect everywhere for oil / fuel leaks.

If everything is ok, then fire her up again, and (once running) with a screwdriver to hand, go and increase the idle-speed on the carb so the engine is doing 2500-3000rpm to break in the new cam. As the engine warms, you'll need the choke less, so you'll be forwards and backwards adjusting the choke and the idle speed. Keep an eye on temp and oil gauges, and an eye all around (and under) for leaks / problems.

You need to keep it going for 20 minutes or so to break in the new cam - I admit that i've only done this for five minutes on one occasion previously- just to avoid annoying the neighbours! Didn't seem to harm the cam, but if you can manage twenty minutes, then do so.


oh - the tee-piece return does seem to work. The tee is fitted between the tank outlet and the intake to the pump (the larger bore end of the pump). The return from the bottom of the regulator is fed into this tee-piece.
Now - this isn't a tee you can find in halfords; it's one you have to make or modify yourself...
The outlet of the tank is 1/4"; the intake to the pump is 10mm or 12mm (depending on type); and the return from the regulator should be 5/16" (8mm). So that's three different diameters...

Edited by turbodave16v on 17th Feb, 2006.

what a great thread can someone permanently stick it in beginners tech

yep i made my own and works well less hassle than modifying the tank.

i used central heating micro bore pipe for the return that works well.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

ben i have a load of 8mm pipe left over if you get stuck

Dont forget as TurboDave said to run in the cam for 20 mins but I didnt see Dave write that this 20 mins should be at least 2500 revs so that oil can fling off the crank onto the cam to lubricate it.
Paul

I seriously doubt it!

about the larger diameter fuel pipe, does this have to be all the way from the tank or just were the metel one is in the engine bay

also could someone put a picture of a whole carb set up in the car so i can see what pipes go where, also were the actuator pipe goes from the actuator
cheers ben

it wants to be all the way along. no point having large diameter at one point then smaller further down as it just restricts things. The return wants to be larger than the feed or the feed needs restricting

do a search mate, its been covered loads and loads of times