7psi connection help
Turbo Mini Forums

I'm a complete noob. I've been reading threads for hours on end. I'm more confused now than ever.

Could you please point me to threads that will help me plumb in my presumeably stock metro turbo to get the stock 7psi all through the rev range?

I have no boost gauge or bleed valve. I just want to drive this thing in the short term on simple settings.

I DO have a red valve thingie (Blowoff valve?) threaded into the top of the plenum--I think I need to conect this to the intake manifold. (or should I run a non-modified plenum to start with, which I also have in spare?)

I also DO have a T piece coming off of the turbo with one end blocked off and the other just hanging open at the moment.

I do NOT have an ECU.

I DO have a turbo pressure regulator with a 15psi fuel pump, a 5mm ID fuel feed line and an 8mm ID fuel return line.

Also, the lock nut on the actuator is loose. How do I set this?

Apologies for multiple questions.

--Spank

I'm a complete noob. I've been reading threads for hours on end. I'm more confused now than ever.

Could you please point me to threads that will help me plumb in my presumeably stock metro turbo to get the stock 7psi all through the rev range?

A…. 7 psi max, the metro ECU bled off mid range power to save transmission, the ECU reduced the torque by lowering the boost to 4 psi. The actauter standard is 4psi…

I have no boost gauge or bleed valve. I just want to drive this thing in the short term on simple settings.

A….provided nothing is amiss, ie not set up and running loads of boost you will be fine.

I DO have a red valve thingie (Blowoff valve?) threaded into the top of the plenum--I think I need to conect this to the intake manifold. (or should I run a non-modified plenum to start with, which I also have in spare?)

A….Correct, the dumpvalve/red blow off valve needs to be signalled by a thin pipe to be taken from the inlet manifold or engie side of the carb throttle butterfly…manifold is best.

I also DO have a T piece coming off of the turbo with one end blocked off and the other just hanging open at the moment.

A…OH DEAR!….yes one pipe went off to your original ECU that is hopefully in the bin, the other goes to your actuator….

I do NOT have an ECU.

I DO have a turbo pressure regulator with a 15psi fuel pump, a 5mm ID fuel feed line and an 8mm ID fuel return line.

A…a 15 psi pump seems a little low, the idea is the fuel pressure is always higher than the boost pressure by 4 psi…so if your engine runs 11 psi you are pushing your luck with the risk of leaning out and cooking the thing with nasty detonation…get a proper pump!

Also, the lock nut on the actuator is loose. How do I set this?

A…easy, get a fuel pressure gauge between the regulater, on tick over the fuel pressure should be 3.5/4 psi, once it is set at that the fuel pressure should rise with the boost if it works. Lock the nut off once it is set.

Apologies for multiple questions.

Hope that helps.

JF.

This is the fuel pump I'm running:
http://holley.carshopinc.com/product_info....id/28141/12-927

I'm still not clear about the hose set up as they come from the carbs if I have no bleed valve or ecu or whatever. What is vented and what is connected?

And, do I understand correctly that I cannot get it to run at 7psi boost without additional pieces and will only be able to run 4psi with what I currently possess?

Thanks!
--Spank

You will need a bleed valve as your actuator is set to 4psi as standard. So you effectivly need to bleed off air from the pipe before it reached the actuator.

I dont think that fuel pump will be upto the job to be honest. It may just about work at very low boost - but as soon as you want to run 10psi + its going to struggle

you need a fuel pump from mirage
it`s up to the job and it`s £40
PM him

1293 Turbo mini

a piece of tube with the end blocked and a few small holes in will suffice as a bleed valve

just pull it out one hole at a time to get desired boost. Cheap and cheerful but it works!!

Thought I'd follow up on this.

I have not measured the pre-load on the actuator (the distance before it is hooked up and the circlip put on). But I have plumbed in a vacuum/boost gauge into the maniflod (where booster would thread in).

I get 3psi of boost with moderate throttle and a strong 7psi of boost when my foot is really in it and a constant woosh of air, sounds like from the dump valve, so long as it is on strong boost. Does this sound like it is functioning correctly? If so, how have I ended up with 7psi of boost when it seems like it should only be running on 3psi of boost?

As far as I know, the actuator is completely standard.

Also, I don't know if the stock plenum blow-off valve is blocked off--I never checked nor do I know how when it is on the car.

Finally, is there a thread or reference someone can direct me towards that would explain or illustrate to me how all of this stuff works? Like what does an actuator do and what does adjusting it allow it to do? How is the blow-off valve thing a factor in all of this?

Thanks,
--Spank

you shouldnt get a woosh of air all the time your on boost. it sounds like your trying to run too much boost and the standard safety valve is lifting limiting you to 7psi

you could try turning the boost down to 6psi and the woosh should stop. if you cant turn it down you have a leak in the pipe from the turbo to the actuator or your actuator has to much pre-load

another thing is you didnt need a bleed valve to run higher boost. cheaper and in my opinion better is to increase the pre-load on the actuator( but only for small amounts )

you should realy get a haynes manual as this tells you how to set the pre-load etc

i'd also check the diapraghm in the the dump valve. these split VERY quickly if only rubber. go for an uprated kevlar one.