camberarms
Turbo Mini Forums

alright my first topic here.
I am due to classregulations, changing out my adjustable camberarms with some fixed ones. I have some std camberarms laying here, and after meassuring them against the adjustable ones on the car, they where 9 mm shorter. I am now running 2,5 negative. How should I modify the setup to get the same amount of negative? the 2,5 degree arms from minispares are market +060", that would be around 1,5 mm right? that will not be enough.

One possibility is to heat the bent bolt that attaches the arm to the subframe out, such that is sits around 9 mm further out against the wheel, and then drill a new hole for the threaded end, and weld the old hole.

Another possibility is to heat and stretch the original arms? how to do this and avoid them getting brittle eventually?

the last possibility is to make up some ofset bushings, but this will not give the 9 needed millimeters.

About bushings, I have now driven with rose joints, and really dont want to get back to the loose rubber again. Could it be possible to make some in alu or hard nylon with a steel insert in the lathe? what do you guys think? I have no problems making this stuff, but what will be a good solution for a racecar?

I could always press a rose joint inside the arm, but it is not allowed of course....

Edited by miniminor63 on 7th Mar, 2006.

could you not cut, space and reweld/plate them back together afterward as outlined in vizards "how to modify your mini".

theres a thread in the general chat section called "poly bushs" with some veiws on what bushs to use in this area...

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

how are this material to weld? I would rather not do this at it will look VERY different to the stock look, and the scrutineers may not like it...
About the poly bushes topic, I have read it, but it gives more info for a road car I think, and also I should be able to bore the center hole in my own bushings at an angle, so I could get the stresses on the bushings to a minimum. The nylon I am talking about is really hard. its harder than the poly bushings I have tried at least, but how about alu here?

Edited by miniminor63 on 7th Mar, 2006.

make offset nylon bushes ,and make sure they are clamped up tight on each other
to avoid rotating ..

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

Okay thanks for the advice! but this alone will not give me all the extra camber I need.

how about cutting the very outer of the top arm off, just the round bit the pin goes through, some carefull grinding to reshape the end of the main arm body, then fully prep tig weld the end back on with some cleaning up you'll never know its been altered, best make a jig to make sure both arms are identicle in length,

this knid of thing must go on all the time .
i once had a german fella call me asking if my Titanium swivels were exact replicas of the cast ones, i said no and that they are fabricated from eleven individual parts ,also they were silver in colour,
he asked if he painted them black would they look standard ,lol .

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

hehe, that may be a fact Carl, about this going on all the time. The problem with doing the top arm thing is that I then have to dismantle everything, wich im not eager to to, and also I cant weld with a TIG welder... very good idea though!

Edited by miniminor63 on 7th Mar, 2006.

Carl, Im sure you could knock up some Ti bottom arms that resemble original but in the desired length.
9mm seems a lot are you sure?
Paul

I seriously doubt it!

yes I am sure, and dont really understand it, as the 2,5 degree arms from minispares are +060". I think it sounds strange that 9 mm is needed, but its like that, and the wheels arent mounted near horizontal either:)

Are you sure you havn't got metro hubs fitted,as they give 2.5 degree more positive camber when fitted on a mini.

so if you put 2 degree arms on you end up with about half a degree negitive

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

What do the rules actually state?

And what sort of spec is the car? slicks? LSD? etc.

I ask because 2.5 degrees seems a lot of negative camber. I run around 2 degrees with 3 degrees of caster. But if you run 5 degrees castor you could run less camber with a similar result.

Wil

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

I am sure I do not have Metro hubs, they are from an 88 mini, I took them of myself, The car is on Yoko 032Rs and has an LSD. I really like the setup I have on my car, it is 2,5 degree negative in front, 4,5 degrees of caster, a little bit of toe, straight and 1 degree of camber in the rear, I want to keep this setup, but I do not understand why I have to have camberarms that long...

Edited by miniminor63 on 8th Mar, 2006.

Well 4.5 degrese caster is as much as you really want with an LSD.

I still think 2.5 degrees camber is too much, even on 032Rs, but this isn't much help.

I think off set bushes plus the minispares arms is the best bet then. Phone up Rich at Minispares North and see what he knows abou their arms, 1.5mm sounds too short to me.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

normal weight distribution, no engine in the boot:) just a "normal" 1071 with 9300rpm redline in the normal space.

Hi, about bending the big bolt that attaches the lower arm to the subby. Is just heating it so its red hot, bending it, and cooling it in water or similar a safe solution?

I wouldnt cool it in water!
Its made from just mild steel. I you quench it, itll harden and possibly break. Let it cool naturally.
Paul

I seriously doubt it!