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Slobo

35 Posts
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Shillington, Pennsylvania, USA

I just bought a turbocharged Mini. Supposedly a 1293 with a 286 cam but I think it idles much too smoothly for that cam and anyway the seller told me so many lies I don't know what I have. How can I tell what turbo I have? The only numbers I can see are WPM 1141 and WPM 1143. When I change oil, and I have a 10 row oil cooler, how much oil must I add? How can I really tell the size of the engine? What else should I look out for? Thanks, Slobo

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Slobo

35 Posts
Member #: 883
Member

Shillington, Pennsylvania, USA

OK, how about one at a time! How can I identify my turbocharger? The only numbers I see are WPM-1141 and WPM-1143? Thanks, Slobo

"Stick your foot in it"


Dangerous

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Swindon

Whats the a/r numbers on the snails,is it a t2 a t25 a t3 or what


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Slobo

35 Posts
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Shillington, Pennsylvania, USA

That's what I'm trying to find out. The only numbers I see at all are the ones I previously posted and now I see a number SG 7909 on the turbo piece just above the exhaust manifold.

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Dangerous

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Swindon

example of a/r number on snail


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Slobo

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Shillington, Pennsylvania, USA

Dangerous, send me your email address and I will send you a photo of my engine. To me it doesn't look like I have a snail. Thanks, Slobo slobartedgon@aol.com

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Dangerous

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mrbugjam@aol.com


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Dangerous

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Cant see the turbo,It's on the end of the black spring like pipe,No intercooler so don't go over 10psi

Rest looks like std meto turbo if you ask me

even got the dashpot clamp on top of the carb*surprised*



Edited by Dangerous on 22nd Mar, 2006.


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Slobo

35 Posts
Member #: 883
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Shillington, Pennsylvania, USA

Thanks, What is the open brass fitting on the right of the first picture near the fuel pressure regulator? Looks like something should be hooked up to it? Is there anyone on this forum near Reading, PA USA? I'd like to get some help with this car. Slobo

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T3Tone

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Sunny suffolk

Also that inline fuel filter, not sure if there designed to take the pressures involved with our set ups?

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-


T3Tone

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Sunny suffolk

Where does the pipe under the brass fitting lead to?

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-


Slobo

35 Posts
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Shillington, Pennsylvania, USA

OK......... Hard to see but it is about a 1/2 inch rubber hose and goes to a brass fitting in the bottom of the turbocharger on the right side looking at the engine from the front.

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Tom Fenton
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Sounds like it is going to the side of the compressor housing. The brass fitting should be a T-piece with the other leg having a hose going to the wastegate actuator?

In any case, the open pipe needs either blocking off, or connecting to a bleed valve.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Slobo

35 Posts
Member #: 883
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Shillington, Pennsylvania, USA

Are there, on this site, any schematics or labeled drawings of a turbocharger like I have so at least I could begin to know what everyone is talking about? Would an in car bleed valve be something I should have? I see that Minispeed sells one. Slobo

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Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Not sure if there is one on the site?

But there is a VERY good schematic diagram in the Metro Haynes repair manual that I think you will find very useful! If you haven't got a copy of this manual, I would strongly advise you to get one!!!

An in car bleed valve allows you to bleed some air from the wastegate actuator to fool it into allowing the turbo to make more boost pressure. Really as a starting point you need a boost gauge so that you are aware of what boost pressure you are running, before you start to bleed anything off. From the description of that pipe it sounds like your boost could be uncontrolled, so you need to block that pipe up immediately!


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Mike

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Sunny Sussex

On 23/03/2006 13:55:09 Tom Fenton said:
The brass fitting should be a T-piece with the other leg having a hose going to the wastegate actuator?

In any case, the open pipe needs either blocking off, or connecting to a bleed valve.


Just the post I was looking for, i have a 3 'legged' bleed valve. Does this go between the brass T and the actuator (with the other leg of the brass T blocked and the 3rd leg of the bleed valve venting to air

Or

T to actuator on one leg of the T, and the bleed valve on the other leg of the T with the two unused legs of the bleed venting to air?

Make sence?? Either way i supposed the bleed will vent and lower the pressure to the actuator?



slim_shadyuk

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Plymouth, On the floating skip known as HMS Albion


On 22/04/2006 22:36:27 Mike said:

Just the post I was looking for, i have a 3 'legged' bleed valve. Does this go between the brass T and the actuator (with the other leg of the brass T blocked and the 3rd leg of the bleed valve venting to air



That'll be the one

Edited by slim_shadyuk on 22nd Apr, 2006.

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metroturbo

806 Posts
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North Yorkshire

The open brass fitting sounds like the boost solenoid. If the Metro Turbo ECU isn't fitted then it won't be working, and you will be running 4 psi boost. It is normally closed, 12v to energise and open, so it won't cause any over boost problems if it is left alone.

I have a couple of schematics for the turbo set up:




Edited by metroturbo on 23rd Apr, 2006.

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