Few questions
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi, been looking through alot of old threads, but some replys contradict each other, so just got a few (well several) q's for you guys, not sure if its personal preference or a simple case of right or wrong so...here goes...


1 ) Should the dumpvalve signal be plumbed in before or after the butterfly?

2 ) Should the boost gauge be plumbed in before or after the butterfly?

In past threads it seems people do it both ways, does it really matter?

3 ) If both of the above reside on the same side of the butterfly, can i use a t-piece, or drill tap separate take off? basically do they affect each others function if ran off a t piece?

4 ) Im sure the actuator plumbs into the compressor housing, but just want to double check.

5 ) Im aiming at running 10-12psi boost....

I think I should i get a higher rated actuator, say a 14 psi actuator, and use more preload, but...

some people have a lower rated actuator and use a bleed valve?

From what ive read, TD (or Miniwilliams? cant remember now) and Benross have differing veiws on this.

6 ) Giallofly pointed out some cheap bleedvalves on eBay the other week (these had 3 takeoffs), i presume these fit inline on the actuators signal pipe from the compressor housing ( ? ) but where do you plumb the 3rd take off to?



Im pretty sure I know most of the answers from past threads, but theres nothing like a bit of reassurance.

Cheers to anyone who can answer any of the q's

Jo

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

All sounds good to me
but i thougth the dump valve had to be plumbed in seperate on the manifold for it to work accurately because of the pressure in the gauge pipe slows the dump valve down when opening and closing

Edited by jimmy on 2nd Apr, 2006.

1293 Turbo mini

I wouldnt bother changing the actuator for another one that has a different psi setting......just do what i did and fit a dual stage in car boost controller, it sets the pressure for the actuator to release the wastegate.
Its great...mine is hidden under my dash and at the flick of a switch i can run low boost for cruising around which ive set to 3 1/2, and if i wana go fast flick to high boost which i have set to 8psi.
Psi settings can be ajusted from 1psi upto as much as 30psi!

Jeremy

1975 MkIII Morris Mini 1300 Turbo, 100bhp...if only it could run long enough to drive it legally!

Those electronic boost controllers look very tasty, but are a bit pricey for me...

those manual ones look to be resonably priced though, are there any disadvantages of these over bleed valves, or are they simply better?


*edit* just did a search for mbc...


in previous posts people seem to be at a loss as to how they operated at full boost. some seem to get an initial 'overboost' too...

ive probably made my mind up to get one, but if someone could point me too a tried and tested brand/model (i think there are 3 dif types of mbc valve) id be very much appreciative.

Jo

Edited by joeybaby83 on 2nd Apr, 2006.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

dump valve goes on engine side of throttle butterfly so doe's the boost gauge if you want it to show positive and negetive boost

Best place for wastegate actuater is of the plenium chamber as it gives a flatter boost curve(due to intercooler flow losses I think)

A uprated 8 or 10 psi activator is better(better still a billet one with interchangable springs) as a bleed valve just wastes pressure of the turbo(be it only a little)

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

I'm with dangerous on the actuator signal from the plenun.

I have the dumpvalve and boost gauge from one point on the manifold then a T-piece, seems to be ok.

Wil

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Cheers guys, done a bit of reading on this...but still a bit hazey on how to have dual boost settings.

hypothetically...

if i wanted to run 4psi around town, and for this to go up to 10 psi when on the backroads, the best way would be:

To use an actuator nearer the lower boost value (4 psi) and use a device such as a an MBC or bleed valve to up the boost when needed...

or...

Use an actuator nearer the upper boost value (10 psi) and use less preload to get 4 psi. But this means if I wanted to switch to 10 psi it means adjusting the actuator (?), so a bit of a pita...

Or... is there an easier/more conveinient way to limit the boost to, say 4psi, on a 10 psi actuator without actually changing the preload?

Cheers lads, just use to the relative simplicity of na cars.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

In my opinion, the best way to do it is to decide what boost you want to run, select a suitable actuator, and then leave it alone!

But if you must have 2 boost levels, the way I would do it is to pick an actuator to suit the lower of the boost levels. Then on a tee-piece, connect a solenoid valve in line to a bleed valve. With the solenoid valve open, set your upper boost level, then lock your bleed valve off.

Then, when the solenoid valve closed, you will have your low boost level. Flick a switch, and your solenoid valve opens, and starts bleeding some boost pressure off, and so you now have higher boost level.

thought so, cheers tom

i havent made my mind up what i want yet, just trying to learn as much as possible.

thanks guys

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

I can get air valves too do the job that will run 8bar all day long so will up to the job
12v suppy to work them

1293 Turbo mini

Like tom - If you're going to run 10psi, then set it for 10psi and have done with it. There is absolutely no need to vary between 4 and 10psi - your right foot does this better than some 'blingin switch. If your mini is weaving and snaking at 10psi; DO accept that you haven't got something very special, it's just that your suspension geometry is all to cock...

Now - 15+ psi is something else. Again - you could run this all day long, but full-bore starts in 1st and 2nd will see wheels spinning, so it is easier to have a staged switch. 1st gear will never need more than 12/13psi in reality - because it's all over too quickly (even moreso with a helical trans). 2nd - you'll only need higher boost after 4000-odd rpm. 3rd and 4th - whenever suits!

A simple toggle switch on the gearlever works for me. Anything that can't be opeated with your righthand whilst still holding the steering wheel, or your left hand on the gearstick is plain daft.

If you do run a boost controller electric or manual.....choose one that has a gated system if you can,they are beter.
And also try to go for the well known brands or ones that people recommend...there are heaps of brand copys and duds out there.
My in car boost controller was $200 nz...and thats by no means one of the most sophisticated or expensive ones.....roughly divide by 3 and thats what you'd expect to pay i guess.
Mines made by Powerup i think...its an Austrailan brand.

Jeremy

1975 MkIII Morris Mini 1300 Turbo, 100bhp...if only it could run long enough to drive it legally!