Radius Arm Bearing Bush Reamer
Turbo Mini Forums

I am thinking of buying a reamer for the radius arm bearing bushes.

Anyone know the diameter required?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

long series 13/16" parallel hand reamer..

though an adjustable reamer might be better as you can get the clearance to match the pin better..

HTH,
Dave

Thanks Dave.

Ebay search coming up!

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Has anyone done this? is it an easy job?

Team Racing

wich one of this bad boys do i need?

cheers


http://stores.ebay.co.uk/RDGTOOLS-ON-LINE/...h&_sid=81740245

internationally known as "big" swede

From a quick glance, none of those.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u

with the aid of a conversion chart i finally find one

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Adj-Hand-Reamer-H9-2...3d#ht_959wt_907

Edited by G13B on 7th Dec, 2010.

internationally known as "big" swede

i used similar to above a few times and seem to have gotten away with it, but....ideally you should use the proper tool or equivalent to make sure your ream both bushes parallel

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

IMO an adjustable reamer is a must! Or at least very, very desirbale! We measured some shafts and they differed quite a bit in dia.

I used a turned, slightly tappered brass bush as a guide (easy to fabricate if you own a lathe); knocked it in on the needle bearing side to guide the long (resp. leghtened) reamer. Knock out guide, knock in needle bearing - job's a good 'un.

No play, 100% true.

With the right tool it's an easy operation.

[X] nail here for new monitor

will try to do something like that, Asphalt

is it possible to machine an old radius shaft to take the reamer, and do the honing with the needle bearing in situ?

internationally known as "big" swede

my proper ghetto style method is a radius arm shaft with 6 slots cut in it and a taper on the beginning with a nut welded on the other end looks abit like a fat drill bit.
it worked for me no problems

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

@G13B: Hmmmm - if you make it two-piece, why not? On the arms I did, the shaft never fittet through the unreamed bush... But if you connect the reamer with the shaft 'in situ' - why not?

What I don't know is if the inner tube is large enough to allow reaming. If it is (I didn't try, but would guess it is), I might be beneficial for trapping the swarf (not so the bearing, this might catch a lot of swarf and possibly needs some very good cleaning after reaming).

Try it - I guess it could work. In theory... (I might overlook someting - correct me if I'm wrong).

Edited by Asphalt on 9th Dec, 2010.

[X] nail here for new monitor

maybe use the old needle layer and do the reaming first, then clean…

internationally known as "big" swede

Has anyone ever thought about fitting a second needle bearing instead of the plain bush?

Why would it not work? The front top arm has double rollers, why not the radius arm?

I know the needle roller is not ideally suited to the angle of movent, but its not been a problem on the front top arms or full roller rockers, has it?

Edited by Sprocket on 9th Dec, 2010.

IIRC the later aussie mokes used 2 needle bearings, and the Metro/114 arms uses 2 of them.
don't know if its better or worse

On the shafts i have replaced the needle bearing side have been most damaged, you can see where the rollers have eaten them self in, unsure if this is a cause of bad lubrication or not… i guess the bronze bushing have a larger contact area and can withstand more force, some racers put in 2 bronze bushes and get rid of the needle bearing completely*.

wonder why there is one of each in the first place?

*tmf source, needs more research

internationally known as "big" swede

I have tried both an adjustable reamer and the proper Churchill tools for removing the bearings & bush, replacing them and then reaming to size.
The simple adjustable hand reamer allows the hole to be enlarged to suit the pin - and generally it has to be opened out slightly as it isn't perfectly in line with the roller bearing.
The proper tools are, as you would expect, perfect for the job and I've had no complaints on the multitude of arms (fron & rear) that I've done of the past few years.

Many moons ago, I was told that the original arms had two roller bearings in them and the bush was introduced as the outer bearing kept breaking up.
I can certainly see the logic in having two bronze bushes as roller bearings are normally designed to go round and round, not oscillate (hance wear issues with full roller rockers).

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

Didn't the very early arms have two bushes?

[X] nail here for new monitor

Only the other week did I actually get a reamer to do this job.

First attempt was poor with the two bushes not lining up.

Second attempt, I used the lathe to line up the reamer and the result was better.



Next time I will use an adjustable reamer. This second hand jobbie is a bit worn and it's still a little tight.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

is this what you have been looking for.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/mini-and-metro-radiu...=item2eb1f94956

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Harry has got a tool like this.



8-)

http://www.minifreunde.at