T2 water connectons and Oil Drain
Turbo Mini Forums

Had quite a productive day in the garage..

Finally got all my turbo connections sorted, knocked the oil drain up out of 15mm copper, and finally found some decent banjo connections for the water pipes.





If anyone is in need of these banjos for their turbo, let me know and I may be able to get some more..

Next job is the actuator i'm guessing?

nice!

oil drain looks a good one, where did you get the bolts to fit into the turbo for the banjos? iu couldnt find some anywhere

yep actuator is next, finally the list of jobs is getting smaller

I got the bolts with the fitting Nic , from a local hydraulics place.

Pirteck hose's had the correct banjo's for my t25, but they had to be specially ordered and in total cost me about 40quid! grrrr

yeah we went to pirtek first to try and get some, but no joy. ended up going to the place i got my fuel return T piece from and only cost about a tenner i think.

Not looking forward to fitting this engine next weekend now dude, its gonna be a bit chilly :)

just a quickie, are you not worried about the solder when the turbo gets hot?

i dont know if it will get that hot, but thought id mention it just in case...

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

yeah, i was wondering about the solder too, ordinary solder melts at about 215 C.

course you could silver solder it...

clubby i hope iam not a pain it the rear but....... them copper joints will fail you!

& you will end up doing the motor in through lack of oil when this fails!

it needs to be on the lines of the T3 oil return.

I've seen two std blue ones joined together with a sleeve before on a T2

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

The water in the pipes will never be much more than 100deg C will they? I guess the solder will be OK. Thermotec them.... Easy!

I was hoping they shouldnt get that hot be honest,
what with the water running through the turbo, hopefully the oil pipe wont get that hot...

what does everyone think.........

Edited by Kean on 2nd Dec, 2005.

From the info I can find, the solder I used has a melting point of 227 degrees C


Any ideas if it will stand it?

I reckon that'll be a problem, I don't know how hot the oill draining out the turbo is but I'd say HOT, plus the fact the pipe is solidly connected to the turbo (no thermal barrier). The main thing is if it does let go it'll probably be at the worst possible time. also there's the possible fire risk of oil getting on a hot turbo.

I'd either silver solder it or braze it, to be sure.

i measured 300 and something on my manifolds, id change for 13mm steel pipe and get it tig-ed

right, thanks for the input guys....... back to the garage lol

i thought it was all going a little too easy

so much for getting some work done on my car tonight.....

clubby like i said i dont mean to be a pain up the thruster but......

this 30 bob oil return pipe you knocked up!

is one of the most crutial parts of a turbo set up

if this was to go pearshaped & it would

you would be totally gutted the damage would me terminal all round.

iam glad you are addressing this problem head on!

give this your best shot & do it right

steel pipe fittings is the best answer simlar to the T3 setup is the line, your thoughts should take you.

BEN:

Yes I agree Benross, the last thing I want is solder flying through my engine, along with no oil pressure and a turbo on fire lol..

Got a few ideas in my noggin so i'll sort it.

Thanks again for the input guys, just goes to show the wealth of friendly knowledge on this forum.

yeah, i wouldnt take the chance to be honest, turbos dont come cheap :)

let us know what you use instead.

jo

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

can anyone see a problem using normal plumbing compression joints?

Sorry its an old thread i know.

Did anyone ever find an off the shelf soloution to this issue. I remember Iain mentioning an oil drian however all I have found is references to the t3 and not the t2.

As it looks like everyone has had to either put two 90 degree bends together (like in Nic's old photos) or braze an extra lenth of pipe on the standard drain does anyone have a better idea than my options below.

a) Using aeroquipe type hosing to going from the threaded connection on the t2 unit to a tapped threaded section on the t3 oil drain. (Already sounds like a pig to fit)

b) Getting a silicone hose made up in an sort of s shape.

b looks more appealing due to the face that it will still only require one peice of hose, however will all of the bends cause a restriction with regards to the oil follow back into the sump?

Otherwise it has to be the option Jim and Dave use (elier in this thread) on their t2 setups, however I would like not to have to modify the gearbox case.

Any other ideas?

The main problem with using the existing entry into the block is that its so close to the turbo... you can just get it, but its tight messy..

Also, you cant use normal silicone hose because they will perish with hot oil

If your not interested in drilling holes in your box, you may want to look into going into the speedo drive housing. that is if you dont want a speedo lol

whichever way you do it, its a pig of a job but so worth it

compression joint are what oil boilers have to use so they would be fine. u can buy chrome ones too.

you have two easy options as I see it, do as I did and tig weld a pipe into the gearbox casing, or simpler:

Usemild steel pipe (an old oil pickup pipe is the perfect size tube) cut it and angles and use a mig welder to join it.

Team Racing