1293 turbo with Mirage manifold
Turbo Mini Forums

I'm pleased I still get some gains of having a red engine by leaving the paint on there, perhaps I should have done the same with the block!

I was concerned the newspaper head gasket wouldn't last too long as well but it can't be much worse than the BK450 that was a few months ago.

Robert - that is not what I wanted to see! A lot of people seemed to suggest that the gearbox would be ok with SC drops and an X-pin diff, but maybe not at that level of torque. I'm not going to strip it all down now to fit SC gears but I think I will in the future, I'll just make sure I don't run too much boost for now.

there may have been some slightly aggressive driving at avon, just before .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Looking really good!

I spy a Matiz alternator!

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

lets see at whatever boost that engine makes on the rollers

does this mean you will be coming on the 17th?

On 7th Oct, 2009 BENROSS said:
lets see at whatever boost that engine makes on the rollers

I won't be there on the 17th, I've still got a lot to do before it's ready to drive and not a lot of time off work.

Looking very nice, it seems to be coming along quickly too

Keep it up

I've got a fair bit done since I last updated this. I put the engine in last weekend, It went in really easily which was nice.DSC00873 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I made a bracket for the downpipe
DSC00875 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I was pleased to find that the turbo clears the bulkhead with a standard engine steady, the plenum doesn't but that will soon be corrected with an appropriately sized hammer.
DSC00872 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I seem to have spent a lot of time on it but it really doesn't look too different. The alternator fits but the starter motor doesn't, I've ordered a Brise one which was a bit painful but hopefully it will also give enough room for a fan. It looks like this currently.
DSC00874 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Also this is the actuator bracket, I've had to cut the corner off to clear the base plate since I took that picture. Hopefully it is solid enough that the heat from the turbo won't effect it, I will just have to see.
DSC00871 by Matt4475, on Flickr

Edited by Flame Red on 11th Jul, 2017.

will the actuator work properly that way?

Do it right the first time and make it mint!!!!!!

The wastegate has been reversed as it's the only way it will fit. It means the actuator acts from that side rather than the cold side like it normally would. I have tested it with compressed air and it seems to work fine.

Nice pictures, building a simular engine over here.

Do you have some pictures of the oil return off the turbo to the engine. I'm having troubles to get it right.

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl

Nice pictures, building a simular engine over here.

Do you have some pictures of the oil return off the turbo to the engine. I'm having troubles to get it right.

Edited by paneermeel on 27th Oct, 2009.

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl

looks good mate

How is the build going on:)

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl

I've got some pictures of my oil return, it's not on the engine but you should get the idea. It seems to work ok, I would make the flange on the turbo a little longer if I did it again.
Picture004 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Picture006 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Picture005 by Matt4475, on Flickr
I've put in the fuel lines and pressure regulator and connected all that up. I've also sorted out all the cooling, it's taken a lot of thinking about, I've used an mpi bottom hose modified a bit, the heater runs through the heated inlet manifold from the sandwich plate as I found I needed this last winter. I had an inline heater valve which I've had to move to inside the car. The turbo cooling is run from the old heater outlet and back into the top of the radiator. The expansion tank is from an mpi, I fitted it in the original location but it really gets in the way, I have just about managed to get a pipe for the intercooler past it but I can't get anything in the large space below it.
Picture016 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Picture014 by Matt4475, on Flickr
Picture018 by Matt4475, on Flickr
The intercooler is going to sit a little further back than it is in those pictures, I have just put it there to show how it will fit.

I don't know where the air filter is going yet, I don't think there is room by the wiper motor.

Edited by Flame Red on 11th Jul, 2017.

Nice to see you made some progress.

And youre oil return is the same as mine.
In a other topic i asked for other solutions but this is the most likely option

Keep the pictures coming

there is nothing wrong with a A-series that a turbo can't fix.

www.turbomini.nl

Well it runs, or it did until I tried to adjust the fuel pressure to 3 bar gauge because I remembered it was 3 something but didn't bother checking. Anyway, I didn't get to much more than about 10 psi before I realised something wasn't right. I've now ordered a gauge with a more suitable scale as the first inclination on my gauge is 4 psi.

On the positive side of things my megajolt works which I'm pleased with as I hadn't soldered a PCB before, it doesn't appear to leak and the oil pressure is at around 60-70 psi (definitely not bar!). I did try the clutch, I can select gears but it does seem about as horrible as a paddle clutch, it seems to be engaged or disengaged with no in-between and although it doesn't drag the biting point isn't far off the floor.

Looking really nice. Cant beat a clean engine bay.

In boost we trust

read the post wrong, Ignore me!

Edited by minimole23 on 2nd Dec, 2009.

1963 Cooper
1975 Pick Up

It seems to run quite nicely now, I need to set the fueling but I've got a 4 gas analyser so that should be easy. I just need my air filter now, I've been waiting 3 weeks for it but apparently it's been dispatched now, I really hope it has.

I had some trouble with insufficient clutch pedal travel, I had to really push it hard to the floor to be able to select a gear and the biting point was far too low. I changed the push rod to one from a 0.625" brake master cylinder, I think it was probably about 1/4-3/8" longer than the standard clutch push rod. The pedal still sits a lot lower than the brake one but I can now comfortably engage a gear and the biting point it further up.

IMGP3038 by Matt4475, on Flickr
IMGP3039 by Matt4475, on Flickr

Edited by Flame Red on 11th Jul, 2017.

That looks lovely, nice work. Just in time for the ice and snow!

I finally got the air filter, set up the fueling at idle and went for a drive. It drove well most the time but sometimes when going from a light throttle opening to around half throttle at low revs it will just hesitate and never accelerate. It appears that the BDD needle is not close enough for this to be drivable so I've bought an AEM wideband kit so I can see what's going on.

I've taken the exhaust off to fit the boss for the sensor, I just need to find someone who can tig it on for me.

I've also noticed that my oil return is leaking a bit, it looks like I just need to do the pipe clip up a bit tighter but I just can't do it. I spent about 30 minutes trying from underneath but the access is too limited. To do it from the top would require the removal of quite a few parts and I would like to avoid that.

looking good mate love the colour
will have to post some of my build up soon ill get the pics uploadsed