Turbo'ing my 1300? help please
Turbo Mini Forums

basically i want all replies explained as if i was a spaz (got some basic mechanical skills but just for this sake, think i havent).

Ive got a mini tahiti and am looking at turbocharging the car. I dont have a clue where to begin on an older car like this, so i would like you kind souls to explain whats required to successfully complete this. Ive got hold of a turbo from a mates volvo. abit small but thinking it will give good quick spool up.
this is where the stupid questions start...
1) i have acquired a 45 dcoe weber carb, can i use this if i choose to turbo?
2)dump valve, yes / no? recirculating/ vent to atmosphere?
3) can you run without an intercooler?
4) if no to the last question, how big should one be and whats the best way of mounting?

Im sorry if im asking questions a million others have done already.
any info would be greatly appreciated

Hi mate

Welcome to the site, I'm very new here me self, I knew Nuffink about turbo motors about 2 weeks ago till i found here, If you do a search mate I'm a 100% positive you find the answers for what you have asked. *trust me there's loads of info on here covering most your Q's.

Billy

Here is a fantastic guide:

http://www.turbo-mini.com/47257/index.html

Also the turbo section of Vizard's book if worth a read although it is a bit dated.

And here's how to do it in 20 hours

Edit: durrr. Phil has a nicer version on his amazing site now.

http://www.turbo-mini.com/62147.html

Edited by wil_h on 1st Feb, 2008.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

What you need if you can get hold of one is a Metro Turbo car complete.

Simply remove all engine components and ancillaries to do with running a turbo. basicaly follow all the hoses and remove all the bits attached to those hoses. You can decide in time where to put them all and what to leave out.

There is no need to rush and I would caution that from start to finish will take a damned sight longer than 20hrs. Without the bulkhead modification it would mean sourcing some very specfic items or having them made

I would even recommend removing the fuel tank and replecating the fuel feed and return lines in your tank as fitted to a Metro Turbo tank. If thats not an option An injection tank will do.

Also remove the fuel pump and balast resistor if fitted. If you cannot find a suitable donnar car I have 4 Turbo lumps in various states of build and might be able to sort you one out including fuel pump pressure regulater waste gate actuator control valve and ECU. Your local B&Q should stock 8mm or 10mm I/D copper pipe for use as feed and return lines

For those who say that the orginal Mini tank fuel outlet is sufficent to supply the standard Metro Turbo fuel pump you are in error! If your cars are running 100 plus brake then you are lucky your pump has not cavitated and stalled the fuel flow.

To fit the Metro Turbo set-up you will also need a bulkhead box and be compitent with a welder.

That is the short and more traveled route to fitting a turbo to your mini. I too did mine from sratch having never touched a turbo before If you can drive the engine before droping it into your mini half your wories will be abated as you already know the motor is good.

Rob.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 11th Feb, 2008.

Own the day

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Ive never had a problem, but if you don't remove the scummy filter inside the tank then you may get a problem with cavitations/blockages!

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

And mine.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Then you are all very lucky! Took me an age to figure out what was going wrong. which got me looking into all the Rover cars that used this type of fuel pump.

When I realised the glaring over site I could have hung myself as it is very basic requirement for any pump. Basicaly a pump must be able to scavenge more fluid than it can supply ie intake is greater than outlet. slowing the pump down by fitting the ballest resistor helped but only delayed the onset of pump stall.

The only way I saw around this was to graft feed and return lines into a mini tank that were an exact match to those in a Metro turbo tank.

Before you could time how long it would take for the pump to stall and you could here the pitch change as the air pocket began to form around the impellers.

I do not doubt your own experiences but if you ever get a chance look under a Metro Turbo or Motego Turbo or E.F.I. you will see what I mean.

Did any of you have to fit a longer top steady?

Edited by Mr Joshua on 13th Feb, 2008.

Own the day

here is a link to another thread for you. all your questions should be answered within http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=6

And take a look at this again robed from the above thread
http://www.miragemotorsport.com/

Enjoy.

Rob.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 13th Feb, 2008.

Own the day