Another Jap Alternator Qustion
Turbo Mini Forums

edit ive looked into this more.. fans and water pumps are max 38A =/ not leaving much for the ecu, injectors, coils, 2xwide bands and whatever else... thats said its not likely to see peak current all at once so do you think the battery can "buffer" out the difference?

i have found this and would like to know if it will run a street/track mini with ms3x EFI ,CNP ,cooling fans and davis crage electric pump it looks quite small when comparing the pic and measurements


50A supposedly
pulley, 3.15" dia
Mounting Bolt centres:5.53"





http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CVR-PROPOWER-AL...=item27d66e9e9d

Edited by Turbo This.. on 30th Aug, 2013.

I'd probably go for something with a bit more amperage personally.

i should add i may be tight on space depending on where i decide or rather have to place it lol

50 amp is plenty. Rarely are all electrical loads on at once & if they are the battery will act as a buffer. Cars draw less current than most think & those Nippondenso units will put out around 60 amp on a test bench. I am an Auto Electrician by trade & use these myself, I have had these fitted to my Mini's since my first mini in 1994. I have always used the one that fits to a Daihatsu Charade G100. Just make sure you have a good battery feed of 7mm cable or more to the starter solenoid battery cable.

Cheers,

Ashley.

I have a Mini again & a collection of Turbo bits, what to do???

cheers m1100s, good to know from memory its approx a finger sized main conductor btw are you talking 7mm square? or?

you say about a good batt what are we talking hear? or just a case of a decant one thats not half fooked?

also ive read on this fourom somewhere i dont rember regarding calculating rpm and pulleys for the best from your alternator?

ill only be running the alt from the engine not mec pump or fan so to reduce rotating mass

also dose any one know the rated/avg current draw of ms3x with all the bits that hang off it?

7mm outside diameter cable will handle around 100 amp also known as 6 b&s cable. If you can achieve a charging voltage of 14.4 volts or above at the battery then a Calcium cell battery as fitted to all modern cars is best, even a small sized battery will have a capacity of 350 cold cranking amps or more ( plenty of capacity ). To work out alternator speed for a pulley size just divide the crank pulley diameter by the alternator pulley diameter & multiply by engine revs the answer will be the alternator rotor speed. e.g. 6" crank dia. ÷ 2" alternator dia. = 3:1 alternator speed so 1000rpm crank speed will be 3000rpm alternator speed.

Ash.

I have a Mini again & a collection of Turbo bits, what to do???

I have a 70A alternator, albeit a mini one, and I'd recommend something like a pug 306 td battery. Just having your cars headlamps on draws 10a, the rough maximum current draw of a minis circuits is around 40a. Hence the 50a alternator. Now imagine adding what you are adding on top of that, a 50a alternator isn't going to cope unfortunately!
The factory injection minis used either 65 or 70 amp alternators. That's what you want to be aiming for.

ok so ive checked and the main cable is about 10mm no problems there =D
so the best situation will be to get the alt spinning enough to make 14.4v and use a Calcium cell battery
im still a bit worried that ill get caught in a pickle when everything is maxing out lol

with regards to getting 14.4v should that be at idle speed or some place up the rev range?
i need to find out what voltage is at what rpm

i did not think that our humble mini was so power hungry 40A?
id have thought lights, wiper motor, starter motor
i have an AC amp/clamp meter but not a DC amp meter buga