FAO Benross Engine Spec
Turbo Mini Forums

Here is what I'm thinking of doing. Where you see TD its Turbodave's recommendations taken from his old posts, so thought I'd copy as he seems to know what he's talking about

cheers,
Mark

Head,
Modified chambers lower CR,
Block mating surface ground flat
Standard port diameters (TD recommended)
Standard turbo sodium exhaust valves (29mm) unleaded seat (TD)
MG sized inlets (TD),
Standard headstuds,
Standard or 1.3 Roller Rockers,

Block,
deck ground flat,
1293 using cast omega turbo pistons if required,
Balanced and polished turbo rods,
ARP rod bolts,
Std turbo crank (hopefully),
Centre main strap,
Ford Zetec undercrown cooling jets (TD),
Avonbar phase 2 cam (TD recommended),
Plain duplex drive (offset woodruff keys)
Turbo high capacity oil pump,

Turbo,
Standard exhaust manifold matched to head,
Wrapped manifold to turbo,
Standard T3,
Standard actuator,
Bleed valve,
High capacity braided oil feed pipe (TD recommended)
Maniflow downpipe,
Clamp modded,
Playmini 2in exhaust system,

Gearbox,
Clubman gearset 4sp (depending on gearbox condition)
Central oil pickup
4 pin diff,3.44 FD ratio (running 13’s)
1:1 s/c drops,
larger primary bearing transfer,
HT capheads (1/4" - std size) used engine to box mating, (TD).
Steel u/l flywheel,
Drilled wok,

Ignition,
Thinking dizzy, but go dizzy less sometime,

Induction,
Inlet manifold matched to head,
Turbo Carb,
Butterfly modded (TD spring),
Float chamber tag modded (TD hot start),
Plenum chamber old dump valve blocked,
Diaghram dump valve added,
RST Intercooler,
Hard 2" intercooler pipes,
Green air filter behind grill.

If anyone wishes to comment please do :)
Thanks,
Mark

Benross T3 large bore turbo elbow

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

Dangerous, what do you mean?

No mention of compression ratio? This is one of the most important things.

I'm there now....a good search function ont his site..

Thinking of 8.2, I've seen people going for higher but shes not an everyday driver so I will be putting my foot down most of the time driving him.

(plus how can I post with charlotte bouncing on my screen )

M

Edited by Monster22 on 19th Nov, 2006.

I must be rubbish at searching then ..... can't find any mention of it!!!!!

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

I must be rubbish at searching then ..... can't find any mention of it!!!!! The Large bore T3 elbow that is....

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=6911

after playing with afacings spreadsheet the proposed CR is a tad low, if I'm plannig on using +.20" pistons the head has to have a lot removed from it.

Am I right in thinking that the components used dictates the CR?

As using 10cc pistons and a cr of 8.5 means I need to have 28.8cc in the head, which seems alot (not knowing how much you can remove)?

M

Edited by Monster22 on 19th Nov, 2006.

Personallly - I'd go for a little higher CR - like 8.5 / 8.6:1; it'll make for a much nicer driving machine - especially as you don't seem to be going for a 'super dooper' high-boost machine at this time?

Cheers Dave and your correct not planning on a firebreather. Just want a fast turbocharged mini that I don't have to take the engine out of it once it's in there..! (thats the plan) £'s are also a consideration.

M

So playing with afracings xls again. I need a volume of 28.16cc's in the head using the following:-

Bore 71.12
Stroke 81.23
Compression Ratio 8.6
Gasket Volume 3.80
Ring land Volume 0.5
Piston Volume 10cc

is that amount of volume possible in a head? (limited knowledge and haven't got my yellow bible in bristol)

Mark

yep 28.16 is possible in a head mate.
i have 29cc in my head (not built yet though)
im going to have very low cr so i may need to skim the head to raise it a bit!
(im using +20, 15cc forged omega dished pistons)

cheers
josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Well, you haven't included any squish height in that lot...

I recall my cast omegas sat 0.9mm down from the deck, which means you'd only need 25.5cc in the head for 8.6:1

You have two clear options:

Do a dry build to measure how much your deck needs to be skimmed for a flush piston/deck height, then strip it down, skim, and re-assemble - whilst at the same time getting a 29cc head made to take you to 8.6:1 exactly.

or

Accept the piston crown will be a little lower down, which will in turn mean you have to take less out of the head - Which you will probably find easier to achieve in reality. You need to build the engine, then carefully measure the squish height in a few locations of each piston, and take the average - and use this thickness as the figure you don't need to remove out of the head.... :)

Edited by turbodave16v on 20th Nov, 2006.

What do you plan on doing with the car? if you are running 13's then you may be better off using a 3.76 FD

Team Racing

option A sounds easier, but option B leaves more meat in the head and the valves are further away from the piston. (had a mini that bent a valve at high rpm on rollers once).

will have a think on which I'd prefer.

Thanks for that, need to start collecting parts now.

Edited by Monster22 on 20th Nov, 2006.

tom ,may i differ .lol , , if you have valve springs that go into bounce , the valve can hang lower in the head , effectively instead of following the cam lobe ,it bounces off the top of it ,and can then go into a state of occilation where it can bounce down the lobe ramp and bounce off its own seat ....and then can definately contact the piston

regards robert.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Edited by RogerM on 20th Nov, 2006.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

When Sooty (wifes car) was on the rollers the car did 3-4 runs then he took it up alittle higher and then it hapened, so I assumed that revs had something to do with it! Oscillation sounds like the cause as stated. Anyway i'll park that as Spam did it. (ps please pm me if you want an opinion on that rolling road)

Jim around Bristol we have a few nice dual carriageways where 70mph is easy. So a 50:50 split is about right for use.
I'll have a search tonight and have a think on this.

M

Just had a fiddle with you rev gearbox program jim (impressed ) thats 4452rpm at 70 using a 3.76 whereas you get 4073rpm at 70 using a 3.44.

need to think about the driving conditions I'll be doing.

thanks,
Mark

You'll find SPAM mentioned in the 'bad garages' section on this site if you want to add your experiences in there?

To me - any valve that is floating is not under control, and needs stronger springs or a lower rpm limit?

spam....BAC.

ok...it was a 4 years ago now.....but I'll never forget it.

Dave i'm not surprised he's made it into that section, I seem to know of a few dodgy suppliers....remember Bank garage minis... anyway back to me spec...

M