Wheel Camber
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi all

Ive been running 13x7 superlights on my mini. Every since Ive had it converted to a turbo, the angle of the wheels is so slanting in than before its started to bend my a panel in! Ive checked to make sure everything is tight.I took it to quickFit and they looked at it and said they never knew what was wrong. any ideas?

I have standard bottom arms and tie rods (not adjustable) no play in balljoints wheels tight.

Thanks Chris

Quickfit and modded minis, Take it to Burger King, they will have more of a clue..

Is it on Hilo's?

JF.

6.1/2 degs if it was a V8 holden.

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

no just standard ride height although i have had Adjustable Spax fitted

Lol cant get shitter than a quick fit fitter

cant get shitter than a quick fit fitter

so True!!!! LMAO

Qucik fit, total BOC would rather leave my car in the hands of a pack of monkies, sandard of work would be so much higher!!
Shane.

Edited by shane on 14th Mar, 2007.

Hi,
What else was done / changed when the turbo was fitted?
Cheers,
Gavin :)

VEMs Authorised Installer / Re-seller. K head kits now available!

WB/EGT gauges. Click here for customers write-up

Visit www.doyouneedabrain.co.uk

My Mini build diary

I just upgraded to 4 pot calipers and fitted new wheel bearings.

I have had the Tracking done but i dont think that has anything to do with it.

Would it have anything to do with the wheel alignment?

the fitting of the turbo and the suspension are unrelated.

I bet the knuckle joint has colapsed, meaning the wheel is now closer to the arch.

Is it on both sides or just one?

Wil

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

metro hubs? do they not cause neg. camber?

no its a mini hub the original of the car. Its only on the passenger side.

Ive bought new knuckle joints when i bought my hi los maybe I should get them fitted and see if I continue to have the same problem.

Thanks Wil

Oh only on one side, right well in that case something has probably worn/failed. As said worn knuckle cups will drop the right height but shouldn't affect camber that much. Are you double sure there's no play anywhere?

Oh and are you sure it's definitely wheel camber or is it just the car has dropped at that corner?

Edited by Jay#2 on 15th Mar, 2007.

could be the top arm pin/bearings or bottom arm bush

Its Just the One side it does look like something has collapsed the way the wheel is facing in. There is def nothing lose or no play in anything. I am going to get my new high los and knuckle joints fitted this weekend hopefully this will solve the problem.

I was going to have a go at fitting the high los myself but I don't have the compressor tool, How hard are they to fit Im not an experienced mechanic but I have managed to do the metro turbo conversion myself. I wasn't going to bother because it looks a potch.

if its already got hi los in, you will probably get away with winding them fully in, usually gives enough room without having to compress the donut.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

You *could* just cut part way through the aluminium trumpet and hit it with a chisel to collapse it enough to get it out but compressor is the best and safest. I blew the threads on one of my cones so had to do it as mentioned. Well actually Dad did it, he has no fear (or sensation from the elbows down) and I don't like being around compressed springs.

I think Ill take it somewhere! I dont want to mess it up

Sorry to Bring this up again!

But I a still no closer to sloving the angle my wheel is at.

I have been told that I may have got the top and bottom ball joints mixed up and thats why my wheel tilts in at the top?

they are the same top and bottom. are you using the correct ball joints? they changed at some point. you need early ones to fit mini arms.

yeah there is a difference in the diameter of the pin, but i would think you would get a knocking sound.

so to recap
* you are using 4 pots, but have not put vented discs or metro drive flanges on.
*the problem is only on one side would it by chance be the drivers side ?

*no play or wobble in any of the joints ? check this by jacking up the car and grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel, repeat this with someone pressing the footbrake (helps inform if ball joint or bearing is gone)

* track rod ends ? have u checked and made sure they are both locked tight and one hasnt wound out a bit ?....is there any play in the steering ?

* check the trumpets and see if there is any rusty debris, this could be the donut (spring) has corroded and the trumpet has sagged into the spring.

* nothing unusual around the area where the subframe mounts on the car ( at all points) if say the body of the car is excesively corroded near top mounts on one side of the fram, may have caused it to list a bit.

* top arm bushes where it mounts onto the frame ?


have you at any point hit a kerb ?


Richie

______________________________________________________
TRADER HALL OF FAME
BENROSS...MINIMARK..WOLFIE (comic genius).....CARL....MARTPAUL.......AXEL
______________________________________________________
TRADERS OF SHAME
1 user....pm me 4 details

LEGENDS
MikeRace, Mini13

I havent hit anything!

I am using metro 4 pots with vented discs and the metro turbo driveflange machined to accept superlights.

It has new tie rods and bushes, new bottom arms and bushes and pin.

new balljoints, new track rod ends, new hub bearings.


I have not checked the top arm bush yet. I will check when i get back from work.

I have jacked the car up there is no
play in the track rod end or balljoints.

Although there IS a bit of play in the steering wheel. When I turn the steering wheel it turns 1 inch before it starts turning the wheels. could this be the problem. do I need to wind up the track rod ends tighter.

Or do you think there is a problem with my steering rack.

sounds like the rack could be goosed. i know that when using the metty drive flanges etc it changes camber, but also kingpin inclination (will have to find me examiners books to find exact phrase but am sure that was it !) and the geometries need to be set via adjustable bottom arms. the whole shabang will be adgitated by the trackrod/rack IMHO i have seen it many times with minis using vented systems off mettys, if it is desperate ie cannot wait until thursday, i will drive to work and get me manuals regarding drive assemblies (defects and settings) and see if i can find the correct terminology, i am sure someone on here will correct me or remind me what i am trying to say......if u catch me drift.


does it pull to one side when driving, or does it seem difficult to steer at slower speeds (i know it would a little bit, but we are talking noticable difference)

Richie

Edited by Richie on 17th Apr, 2007.

______________________________________________________
TRADER HALL OF FAME
BENROSS...MINIMARK..WOLFIE (comic genius).....CARL....MARTPAUL.......AXEL
______________________________________________________
TRADERS OF SHAME
1 user....pm me 4 details

LEGENDS
MikeRace, Mini13

yea the car pulls to the left alot. all the wheels are blanced but it pulls cause of the angle its on. I think my next option is to change the steering rack.

I wish there was somewhere I could take it local for a second opion but the garages are a waste of time locally

I've run mety vented set-ups (on Mini uprights of course) several times without a problem .... it can be made to work well

Edited by RogerM on 17th Apr, 2007.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...