Schedule 40 manifold-- YES..its running... NOOOO its on fire!!
Turbo Mini Forums

Decided to have a go at fabricating a manifold from Schedule 40 pipe. for my GT15 Turbo. quite a few peeps done this on the Japanese cars, what the hell...

http://www.terryhunt.co.uk/mini/pics/engine/picsg/pics.htm

I'm updating it as I go, comments welcome...

Edited by Turbo Tel on 10th Mar, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

cracking idea

what material you going for there?

Whats "Schedule 40 pipe"???? sorry to be stupied.

Edited by Paul S on 2nd Apr, 2007.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Yes ..the Schedule 40 is 1-1/4 high carbon steel with 0.14" walls... quite thick and almost as heavy as a cast manifold.
I found some good drawings of the fittings at:-
http://www.mcmaster.com/
click on "pipe fittings and pipe" look for Butt weld fittings.

Dont forget I am going with a GT15 which I'm guessing is a bit smaller but so far its looking good. The only problem I have at the moment is with clearance for the end bolts I have had to slightly offset the pipe on the outside ports to allow for the flats. i am thinking of going with small tube spacers to give the flats a chance to turn.
I thought about stainless Schedule10 which is thinner walled but I avoided it because of the welding problems.

I'll get some time tonight and post my CAD drawings, probably only good for the e-machineshop software but its free so anyone can use it.

Edited by Turbo Tel on 2nd Apr, 2007.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

I know what you mean about the pipe and the end nuts. For some reason thay are closer to the ports than the others.

I did think about using the 1" nominal bore Sch 40 if I was going the mild steel route. It would be big enough for my 998 turbo.

I'm trying to drop the connecting pipe lower on my design because I want the inlet as straight as possible to get two injectors in each runner.

However, I've more or less decided to use the 1 1/4" bore Sch 10 stainless. I did some trial machining of the flanges at the weekend and other than some teething problems I achieved a reasonable result.

But as you say welding is the next problem. A good AC/DC tig is on my shoping list.

Edited by Paul S on 2nd Apr, 2007.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

This post has prompted me to do a bit more on this.



Used 28mm bore stainless 90 degree butt weld fittings.

Just need to check if the turbo will end up high enough for the oil drain.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Alex .... only need a DC tig with stainless.

AC tigs are for blowing holes in aluminium ... well for the first 100 hours of practice at least

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

On 3rd of Apr, 2007 at 12:22am RogerM said:
Alex .... only need a DC tig with stainless.

AC tigs are for blowing holes in aluminium ... well for the first 100 hours of practice at least

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

My Mitech AC/DC 200 is still doing good, except i still need to sort the foot pedal out... damn TNT clumsy bastards!

and i'm not blowing too many holes either after about 25 hours on a tig

Im Mig welding, thats why I went the Mild steel route..

I have finished the first part, Its at the machine shop getting the 3 ports cut/milled to 45 degrees and the centre pipe milled out for the Turbo flange. I probably could have done that myself but if you saw my other post you will remember the Transfer casing he melted.. the guy owes me!!! so this is a freebe

Next thing is to weld the head and Turbo flange on and take it back to get all the flanges flashed level...



My Mig welding is not great but I'm improving..

Edited by Turbo Tel on 10th Mar, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

COOL!!! Good and quick work!

Yes running scared... my wife is barely talking to me! I'm off to Germany in 10 days and I'll be there for 3 weeks, I really want to get this engine started before I leave, I've just about given up on getting it fully turbo'd but I hope to at least start it in normally aspirated mode and do enough to bed the cam in mostly to check out the megajolt etc..

Edited by Turbo Tel on 5th Apr, 2007.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

Well, That f$^&er at the machine shop screwed me over again and hasn't managed to get the job done dispite promising it done by the weekend so there's no way I'm getting this done before I go to Europe.
So tune in in 4 weeks or so, I'll hopefully get this thing on the road soon.

Terry

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

Terry, I think you need to find a different machine shop mate.

Every day is a school day ...........

How fast and how expensive ...... the same question...

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

, Terry if i wasn't so busy myself , i'd gladly help y ou out ,

tell me what you need doing anyway.

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

Thanks for thr offer but afraid I'm in USA..I have just received an email from a local guy who says he can do it so who knows maybe I'll be on track again next week.

I'm trying to get the faces of the inlet pipes ground down to ensure they are snug against the flanges. If I had realised that this would be such a saga I would have assembled it differently to avoid this step, but I'm stuck with it now. I also would like to get the pipe "slotted" for the T25 flange but push comes to shove I can do that by hand.

The current plan is to tack weld a piece of 90 deg angle on to it to give them something to use to clamp the piece down. this has the added benefit of holding the piece at the required 45deg for grinding.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

I finallly found Ed "Eyeball" who bailed me out and did the machine work on the manifold. Interesting guy, he has a huge basement and specialises in one-off and small fabrication, and he also makes wonderful guitars...real beauties...half the basement is woodwork the other half metalwork and he has a nice Tig welder, just the right kinda guy I needed, at least I know where to go next time I need any work done.

Once the parts were ready It didn't take long, I tack welded it up and checked all was Ok, It was, so welded it up. pics below show it before I tidy it up a bit. The plan to leave the actuator in its normal position and point the outlet down was abandoned once I saw the problems with routing the pipework back up to the carb, plus mounting it conventionally (i.e. pointing up) gave me slightly more room to the bulkhead. I have already reversed the arm on the turbo and I'm now thinking about how to do the bracket for mounting the actuator on the other side.



All machined up (next time I avoid THAT step!

welded up, scuse the ugly welding...but I'm pretty sure its gastight.

other side

Edited by Turbo Tel on 10th Mar, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

Hi,
That looks just the job!
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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My Mini build diary

That's looking very professional.

I think I'll get my grinder out and dress mine up before fitting it.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

yea well...

may look OK but when I tested it for leaks I found quite a few pinholes, spent quite a while sorting them out, next time its TIG.. Anyways now I know the angles are OK and the turbo sits in the correct position the plan is to use this one now and if all goes well make another out of stainless over the winter They guy I found to machine it does TIG I'll ask him to weld it up for me.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

Good stuff!!

glad you got sorted with a machining bloke too, can be a right PITA finding somone who will esentially do what amounts to a freebee. Sounds an interesting bloke, I'd be interested to know more about his guitars too.

I'm about to jump on the Schedule pipe bandwagon, I started doing the stainless flanges, 10mm stainless is not as bad to work with as i thought, decent hacksaw blades and fairly sharp drill bets seem to be fine, although the works lathe didn't seem to like it too much.... and tapping it is a bit of a pain, although It'd help a fair bit if i wasn't using WD40 as cutting paste!

I came across this site, maybe the flanges might be of use when you do a stainless manifold.

http://www.momentummotorparts.com/store/diy_parts.asp

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."