oil filter housing pressure valve question? may concern a few of ya's
Turbo Mini Forums

i was reading in the calver mini expert boook about the oild filter housing pressure relief/bleed valve & how it can lot unfiltered oil get to the main bearings, he tends to lever the locking ring & ball mechanism & drill/tap it to block it with a grub screw, do any of you chaps do this????????

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Tom Fenton says: I have it all, make me an offer

I'm sure this was discussed a while back, however I seem to be having trouble using the search function at the moment and can't seem to find the thread.

Benross has done this.

i'm thinking its a worthwhile mod if its one that works & i'm putting my motor together at the mo (just come in from the garage now to be honest) i've cleaned up/stripped the housing i have so whilst not attached???????? do you chaps think its worth my while?

was it the metro that had water cooled oil filter housing or was that an oil filter adapter doobry!

SKYLINES ARE LIKE CLITS, EVERY FLANGE SEEMS TO HAVE ONE: see this sticker on my silvia

the Search-section on this forum is blummin superb & simple to use, unlike some other forums, without the search-section & the help of this bunch of chaps on here i'll never be able to !!!Start the day with a 998cc turbo!!! :) i'm getting closer though!

Tom Fenton says: I have it all, make me an offer

yes i did the mod

by doing this you are sure that all the oil is filtered

but theres one small problem, the oil pressure from cold takes around 2.5 to 3 seconds to come up not a good thing in my opinion

cold start after cold start wont help the main bearins any
will have to see on re build

any thoughts and experiences guys ?

2nd that steve, if others have done it i'd like to know before i do it/if i do it!

this is my daily driver too so gotta be pretty reliable

could a piece of stainless gauze be put under the little metal clips????? stop some of the bad oil i'd have thought!

maybe my stainless gauze idea may be a halfway house of the two??????

SKYLINES ARE LIKE CLITS, EVERY FLANGE SEEMS TO HAVE ONE: see this sticker on my silvia

the Search-section on this forum is blummin superb & simple to use, unlike some other forums, without the search-section & the help of this bunch of chaps on here i'll never be able to !!!Start the day with a 998cc turbo!!! :) i'm getting closer though!

Tom Fenton says: I have it all, make me an offer

All any gauze will do is act as a brickcatcher, don't waste your time.

second that tom

i think leyland got it right in certain ways

all... and thats 100s of A series engines i have dealt with over many years !!!!

the killer is not changing the Oil & FILTER regular and................... i mean regular!!!!

trust me the oil is past it a 3k in an A series if you giving it some bongo!

1500 insures the best with filter

and dont spent your hard earned mon on bling oil

just my experience ove 30 years

ya recon i should keep it as is then, i tend to change my oil overy 2500miles without fail with old duckhams q 20/50w

every oil change i do i use an engine flush & then put in 4.5 litres of cheapo pound shop oil drian that then put the new oil n filter on, kept it all looking tickety-boo on my old 1098, if i have a few filters in i sometimes just wack a new one on if i have to yop the oild up, never had a gearbox prob, i reckon its down to oil & being kind with the gears/revs

SKYLINES ARE LIKE CLITS, EVERY FLANGE SEEMS TO HAVE ONE: see this sticker on my silvia

the Search-section on this forum is blummin superb & simple to use, unlike some other forums, without the search-section & the help of this bunch of chaps on here i'll never be able to !!!Start the day with a 998cc turbo!!! :) i'm getting closer though!

Tom Fenton says: I have it all, make me an offer

its about right in my book

one disadvantage of blocking it off would be if your pressure reliev valve got suck and the oil presure shot up it will blow your oil filter off, seen this happen before.

but totaly agree should never be a problem if the filter and oil gets shanged regular, even better change the filter every 1000 miles , and oil 3000 tops.

personaly duckhams q is a good oil or coma 20/50 for every day motors upto 100 bannanas.

how ever over the last couple of years i have and t3tone has been using millers cvt and have found that the layshaft ware issues have now diaspered unlike a few years ago using other makes of oils like coma gold ect. so there is somthing in that.

especially as quality layshafts are hard to come buy now so we are sticking with that at the moment.

even these so called high tensile layshaft in my opion are not as good as the genuine ones.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

Hmmm,

some good points here, personally I like the idea of pluging it and have an oil switch wired into a relay and feed the coil from this, then the engine will only fire once oil pressure is up.

I don't really see how having it blocked is going to make much difference to the filter blowing off, I wouldn't have thought the presure drop was that much through the filter, ie the bearing clearences should be the restriction... so thefilter will blow off whether bypassed or not.

Hi,
I'm fitting a remote filter head for this reason, and it makes it easier to plumb in the oill cooler.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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My Mini build diary

I like to use a mocal oil filter support and set up when spending some money in an engine, mainly as it give some space at front.
this said not sure the relief valve is a problem when oil/filter are changed regulary.
about oil specs, I completely second that oil is a major improvement in gearbox troubles,but that's un hoter topic
cheers
fab

Im fitting a Remote oil Filter. Mainly coz they look bling!

Thats proper Whack Brothers! Ill put some pics up when i get home.

Edited by MikeRace on 18th Jul, 2007.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


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I've welded the valve up on mine, never noticed a slow build up of oil pressure.

Team Racing

me neither Jim, mine is closed up with liquid metal epoxy. (oil resistant).

The problem with the valve is that the spring get weak and is part open all the time/when pressure is high, thus bypasses unfiltered oil even when its not supposed to.

Edited by miniminor63 on 18th Jul, 2007.

some opposing views building on this mod here really, i'm unsure which way to go, i defo dont lik the weak spring & unfiltewred oil going bk in the system as miniminor63 has pointed out!

my car is my daily to so i'm trying to take a few of the wear"n"tear items out of the engine such as the oil pressure dufer in the bllock thats a spring & bullet as standard & maybe this oil filter housing pressure valve

i'm part leaning to the idea of blocking it again but not liking the small lack of oil pressure at startup! hmmm decisions decsions

1573wx: my oil filter housing looks a bit bling now! i've cleaned it n everthing lol i'll get some pics tonight

SKYLINES ARE LIKE CLITS, EVERY FLANGE SEEMS TO HAVE ONE: see this sticker on my silvia

the Search-section on this forum is blummin superb & simple to use, unlike some other forums, without the search-section & the help of this bunch of chaps on here i'll never be able to !!!Start the day with a 998cc turbo!!! :) i'm getting closer though!

Tom Fenton says: I have it all, make me an offer

An honest question/coment here, if the A series is post filtered (ie put through the engine THEN filtered on it's return to the gearbox) I don't get how blocking the valve can affect oil pressure under start up. Secondly it's not as big a deal as it would be if the engine was pre filtered, the oil going through your engine is going to have shards from the gearbox anyway! OK making sure ALL the oil goes through the filter before going into the gearbox will remove this from the oil but not before it's been all the way through your engine. Converting to pre filtered is the way to go!

post filtered refers to the filter being after the oil pump, the filter is still before the bearings and other gubbins, except the relief valve.

The slow buildup of pressure is something I too notice. I just crank my engine over for a 2/3 seconds before the gauge starts to move - at which point I flick on the ignition.
It did this before I modded my filter head, so don't fully follow that the mod alone will cause this.

For those who never drive their minis over winter - I reccomend you do this personally. If you are driving in 5-10 degrees C or colder, then you probably shouldn't do the mod.

I havent worried about it TBH....

Never had any bearing problems to warrant it.



But then again I change the oil regularly and run a magnet in the gearbox.

Alex

AlexF

Jay,

VW air cooled?

AlexF