Other rebuild questions... now starting but wont select gears
Turbo Mini Forums

Im starting to get confused about clutches. I've searched and seem to be getting nowhere.

Car is a metro turbo which is standard atm these are the parts I've got so far:
Rebuilt carb
Fast Road Unleaded head (turbo phil currently doing)
NOS metro turbo bottom end (block, pistons,rods, crank etc)
kent 266
alloy intercooler
minispares x-pin diff
k+n element
stainless single box exhaust
megajolt
turbo oil pump
dump valve
gaskets

shoping list so far:
Bearings for gearbox (which ones do I need? where from?)
minispares clubman gears
drop gears (not 100% which ones to go for)
actuator (not sure which one?)
center oil pick up

I need to go for pre-verto. Are all the parts here needed? or can I use some from the verto set up. http://www.minispares.com/Article.aspx?aid=571

That works out to be about £390 which is alot more than I thought it would cost to change the clutch

Im coming to the end of my budget for rebuild but is there anything else I should change

Sorry for all the questions but I want to get it right.

P.s I want to run 12-15 psi boost, does 130bhp sound about right?:$

Edited by mayoturbo on 17th Mar, 2009.

Hi,
I'm guessing your metro is a cable operated clutch? If so you shouldn't need the clutch arm and the two pivot pins, having said that I don't know what's involved with running an uprated spring on a cable system?
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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yes metro is cable operated

Cor what a good link i wonder who wrote that.....:) If you use non genuine parts it should come out at about £300, not really worth skimping on the little items as they could wear later. Once its done its done if that makes sense. You could find a second hand flywheel to reduce the cost a bit.

Unless you have one of the very early Metros with a hydraulic clutch (which would presumably be a Pre-verto anyway) I don't think you can make a Pre-verto work in a cable operated Metro unless you convert to Mini type hydraulics for the whole system from the pedal onwards...

The Pre-verto has a very short travel at the release bearing (but very high load) so needs the long arm with the hydraulic cylinder up at the top of the engine to give the leverage for the short travel/high load.

The Verto has much more travel at the release bearing and less load so uses the shorter arm (hydraulic in a Mini, cable in a Metro) so if you tried to use the short arm with a Pre-verto clutch you would over-travel and damage the diapragm, if you could even press the pedal without the extra leverage.....

The only other option I can think of is make your own cable attachment at the top of the long arm but that wouldn't be easy as the Metro cables are "inside out" (outer moves the arm, not the inner).

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Does anyone know what sort of clutch the metro challange cars use?

Metros came with hydraulic clutches on both pre-verto and verto, but there were a lot more hydraulic verto clutch cars made. It changed to cable in late 84.

But, irrespective of when they made the change, presumably the cable operation is only compatible with Verto (with the short arm) ???

(both the ones I dismantled had cable, short arms, and Verto)

Edited by Rod S on 4th Sep, 2008.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

I think ill see how the turbo clutch will cope. If it cant take the hike in power I will have to find some other way of doing it

some bedtime reading for you

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

I have swapped preverto guts in and used the cable, you do end up with a harder pedal with a shorter throw though, not a problem with a std pressure plate, but with a grey it would probably be very hard going and might eat cables.

This is the only pic I have. Not sure if its any help.

bearings you need and the other bits are
2 diff bearings
one 1st motion shaft bearing
one main shaft double bearing
remote rod change oil seal
and all the gaskets and seals

the drop gears i would go for are the 24 tooth ones and go for the timking idler
no coming back to that one but a tad more £..... well worth it

actuator from avonbar racing go for the 8psi one and then bleed the signal off for further boost.

Oh! and please dont forget the diff go for the minispares 4 pin diff,

the vertro clutch will let go on your spec above at around 11 psi off boost
even the uprated ones arnt worth a toss so please go for the pre vertro and a grey cover and AP race plate

dont forget to machine 1.5mm off the pre vertro back plate as per turbodaves advice to give more clamping load.
even with a minispares lightend back plate.

all the above is is avalable from minispares north ask for richard or jim.

Or im sure Robert could sort you out with a verto clutch if you ask him nicely. lol

It will save you ALOT of hassle with converting parts etc...

He's proven it up to a known 150odd bhp and gone well past that now and its still working fine.

Edited by matty on 5th Sep, 2008.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

i have a spare set-up if you get stuck.

Bit of a hi-jack but only a quickie, I've just bulilt my clutch+ flywheel assy up for the first time, in situ is the plate supposed to be clamped up between the backplate and flywheel?

Just wanted to make sure, i guess its right as depressing the clutch seperates the two, disengaging the drive?

thats right rich.

ta!

Thanks benross I already have the minispares x-pin diff :)

I will get the bearings ordered this weekend hopefully

I have a kent 266 cam. Do I need to get new timing gears or will standard be ok?

Which offset key will I need if I use standard?

thanks

EDIT: Ive also now got actuator from avonbar, double roller bearing, diff bearings and also the minispares drop gears with the timken idler

Edited by mayoturbo on 21st Oct, 2008.

standard timing gears will be fine as long as they are not worn. Always fit a new chain. And, no one but YOU can tell what off set key you need, until you measure what the cam is timed at with a standard key