First things first...
Turbo Mini Forums

Hello all,

Just a quick question... did a search but couldnt find the infomation I needed. Im ready to start building my first engine tommorrow, and was wondering what you use for cleaning..i.e. the bores, bearings etc if reusing existing.. iv heard it may be paraffin is this right? Also what paper would you use - theres that blue coloured paper but dont know the name!

Also, im looking to buy a torque wrench... iv spotted this from screwfix:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/22796/Van-Ca...e-Torque-Wrench

Is this suitable? Would 30-50lb/ft cover all eventualities for the mini engine? Would you go for the 1/2' or 3/8'?

Finally what grade oil would you use for running in the engine for the first, say 50 miles?

Thanks in advance.
Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

Sorry 30-150lb/ft even...

Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

Cleaning could be done with paraffin, or brake cleaner, meths, white spirit, anything like that will be OK. As for paper, kitchen rolls from the supermarket are fine, I usually go through at least 3 or 4 on an engine build.

30-150ftlb should cover most important things when rebuilding an a series. 1/2" drive probably better for being able to do the tight stuff like flywheel bolt etc.

Awesome,

Thanks.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

looks good value as well being teng

try not to get too much parafin on your skin, its really not great for you, but i still prefer it to the modern water soluble degreasers as you dont have to rinse said parts in water after...

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Hi,

Thanks for that.

I have started the build today...well just prep'd actually, thoroughly cleaning it etc, but was just a bit concerned about how quickly rust develops on the bare steel e.g. bores etc. Is it a matter of hours, days or weeks?

I dont want to splash wd40 all over it after iv cleaned it!

Thanks, Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

rub a bit of engine oil over all the bare surfaces, youll using lots when fitting the pots anyway, and if you still need to gap the rings its nothing a bit of kitchen towel cant sort :)

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Shit, I was going to go down motor factors tommorrow to get some oil - dont have any in the garage...proper n00b question...but will be OK overnight?

On the topic of oil, what weight should I use for the build - as I want to use the same stuff I run it in on.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

it wont be in there very long, so just use the cheapest oil you can get, i think most use 10w40 mineral oil

youll be swapping it out almost straight away so dont bother with decent stuff

i woudnt think the rust fairy will visit overnight, just throw a rag over it

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

as above. although i do cover all the bearings with that red engine building goo.

dont forget to use some cam lube on the cam too.

i get oil from my local focus diy store, cheapest i've seen. formula 1 stuff iirc.

Excellent.

Also, sorry to drag this post on but...

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=2632

This thread has been useful but a couple of things I dont understand:

When it says checking bearing nip what does this mean?
Is there an obvious tell tale sign that shows that I have inserted the thrusts the right way round?
Also what is crank run-out?

Sorry so many questions but just want to make sure I get it right :/

Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

Ah, reading all the right stuff, top man!

Ok, bearing nip is a measure of how much the bearing cap squeezes the bearing shells, the idea isto install the bearings and torque everything up then slacken one of the bolts, the bearing shells should "spring" the cap up a couple of thou. if the cap does not spring up then the bearing shells may not be gripped enough and could spin in the block or rod.

thrusts are easy to tell, the silver face goes inwards toward the bearing cap, the copper face goes against the crank.

crank run out is bend.

is bearing nip the same thing you use plastigauge for? AKA oil clearance?

or do i have two things mixed up?

plastigauge will measure the gap between the journal and the bearing bud, so yeah, the clearance oil should take up

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Hi,
James ... Nope, plasigage is bearing clearance IE bearing sufaces (crank to shell.)
Bearing nip is how tightly the rod (or block) clamps the shell to prevent it rotoating in the housing.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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I guess the machine shop can clean the block after honing decking etc..

ahhh right, so they are similar but not the same?

Hi,

Im planning to fit the pistons and conrods today...but I cant remove the end caps, the bolts have been done up to tight...I dont really want to use a vice incase I damage them...how do I get these caps off?

Also, arp bolts are fitted but no lube supplied. Should I use the lube when fitting these bolts?

Cheers.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

put a couple of peices of wood either side of the vice and grip them up. although it shouldnt damage them, this will be a better safe than sorry approach!

Good stuff...

Also, do you know whether lube should have been supplied with these ARP bolts? I watched the engine build DVD and he uses this lube...

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

ARP lube is usually supplied with the bolts/studs. I think the torque levels are different if you're using normal assembly lube rather than the ARP stuff but I'm not 100% sure.

it is a slightly more complex version of molybdenum disulfide greese I normly just use some molly on them and it works just fine.

Hi,

Iv finished installing the crank rods and pistons but have a possible problem...

Iv tightened the mains to 68lb/ft and the big ends to 35lb/ft (ARP bolts), but I cant turn the crank at all by hand...Its to tight.

Iv oiled the piston rings, gudgeon pins, bores, bearings etc, am a bit concerned as watching the engine build DVD the guy is able to turn the assembly by hand on the flywheel end of the crank once all pistons are installed :/

Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

Hi,
Have you got the robs in the right way round? They are offset. Easiest way to check is drop the rods off the crank, leave them in the engine, just push the pistons up to TDC, then see if the crank rotates.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

VEMs Authorised Installer / Re-seller. K head kits now available!

WB/EGT gauges. Click here for customers write-up

Visit www.doyouneedabrain.co.uk

My Mini build diary