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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > subframe modification to lower the car (tower mod)

Paul R

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Swindon

i have heard about a few people talking about modifying the tower of the subframe to lower the car by X amount and using spacers with the tower bolts. i have searched for this but have not really known what to type in to find information on it.
after messing about with my mini today you can tell the look i want with my mini may be a little to low...





is there any way to run this low while still regaining some suspension travel?


ps i hope that made some sence =/

paul

Edited by Paul R on 12th Apr, 2009.

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GaryOS

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Dublin, Ireland

It was recently mentioned in Rob H's build thread and I think it was Jimster that posted pics of it previously. I'll have a search

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse *happy*


On 30th Apr, 2010 Rod S said:
Gary's description is best


GaryOS

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Formally spanner181187

Dublin, Ireland

Found it:
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=246090

And it's briefly mentioed here:
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...d=138695&fr=150

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse *happy*


On 30th Apr, 2010 Rod S said:
Gary's description is best


Rob H

4314 Posts
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Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

It's so easy even I can do it!

First off you don't need to do any mods to the subframe or the shell come to think off it, Jim cut the locating rings off his subframe but you don't have to.



Just remove the rubber, poly, ally or steel mount that normally goes between the subframe & the shell and offer the subframe straight up.



Due to the length of the shank on the tower bolts you will need to put a spacer (load of washers if you're a cheapskate pikey) on top of the top mount or alternatively make up some thicker top mounts.



Finally you will need to tweak the lower mounts for them to line up correctly.

Simples

Note for this mod to work properly you have to use alloy tower bolts as steel one are too heavy and look pooh.

Edited by Rob H on 12th Apr, 2009.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


Rob H

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Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

Blooming heck that subframe was heavy, if only I hadn't wrecked my last hole saw notching that blooming cage this morning.

Edited by Rob H on 12th Apr, 2009.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


Paul R

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Swindon

does this only really work with a flip front as i have a full steel front welded on ect im geussing it wont lign up very well afterwords. it seems so so simple, what about the vibration from the subframe strait to the shell does this cause any long term problems as i plan to use my car as a road and track car but want it nice and low :)

thankyou for your replys i forgot about the miglia post i knew it had been metion in robs built thread but it didnt make much sence to me then

cheers paul

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-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

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lockfast

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Aberdeen

Whats the story with the rear subframe mounts? Did you remake these or just move the holes to get everything to line up? I was also thinking about doing this. What does everybody do with the rear brake hose (on the back subframe now) I was just going to move it under the arm to prevent it getting nipped. is that the norm


fastcarl

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leeds/wakefield.

i can't understsnd why in those links above folk have removed the locating lip for the rubber/poly/alu spacer,its not just a spacer it locates the tower to into the crossmsmber without the lip and somekind of locating ring the frame is putting a shear moment into the bolts

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


Scruffy

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Seaford Rise, South Australia

Can some one recommend a suitable hole saw for lightening subframe please? A link would be nice thanks?

On 5th Sep, 2011 Vegard said:
I stand corrected. You should know *wink*



Rob H

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Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

On 13th Apr, 2009 fastcarl said:
i can't understsnd why in those links above folk have removed the locating lip for the rubber/poly/alu spacer,its not just a spacer it locates the tower to into the crossmsmber without the lip and somekind of locating ring the frame is putting a shear moment into the bolts


I hear you, and I've been thinking about making some alloy locating rings for that very reason.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


Brett

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Doncaster, South Yorkshire

i saw this in another thread a while age but never asked the question that poped into my head so ill ask it now :),
wouldnt the contact between the subframe and the body rub off paint and be a nice place for rust to set in, because if it does it would be terminal before you even knew about it, i was thinking in terms of a road car is it worth it?

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

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slater

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Suffolk / Birmingham

if its rubbing you are going to have some serious handling problems!!

at the end of the day its only 1/4" or something isnt it? is it really worth the effot to you?


1972-ANGUS

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Senior Member

sallys gap. garden of Ireland

on my road car ivedone this mod around 4 years ago now, and no rubbing/rust problems.
it was previously located with alloy tower bushes and bolts.
i just used the lower bush on top of the top bush, and bolted it together.
i had to tweek the rear mounts slightly, but was no problem as i was using solids anyway, not poly.
i trhink i had to re dr5ill the holes at the front, been a while!! and ive a steel front.
The only problem ive ever had was having less room under the bonnet for my cossie cooler!!


Brett

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Doncaster, South Yorkshire

yeah i suppose it can only rub off paint if it moves and it wont be moving lol
think ill leave it as is on mine i wont be going super low as i couldnt get it into my dads garage last time, lol

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

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Jimster
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Sunny Bridgend, South Wales




On 13th Apr, 2009 fastcarl said:
i can't understsnd why in those links above folk have removed the locating lip for the rubber/poly/alu spacer,its not just a spacer it locates the tower to into the crossmsmber without the lip and somekind of locating ring the frame is putting a shear moment into the bolts


Carl, I see your point, but the OD of the ring on the subframe is much smaller than the ID of the ring on the cross member so without a spacer it's useless. And you of all people know that weight is evil.

Team Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

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wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

What you will find running that low, even if you move the subframe is that your spring rate is reduced as the top arm is at such an angle.

I have cut the bumpstop area of the subframe out completly.

To run that low at the back you'll either need super stiff poly springs or an ARB IMO. Running too low at the back could potentially ruin the handling.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph



On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Mr Joshua

2497 Posts
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Luton Bedfordshire

mine sits on the bump stops its that low acctually ran with the stops out for the most part of last year but put them back for a little added stifness.

Own the day


slater

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Suffolk / Birmingham

mine basicly runs on the stops, hoping to sort it all out this year tho. Coilovers are a good solution no?


DD_Racing

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Epsom Surrey

haha mine runs on the stops aswell!!

im using standard stops but changing to poly ones

wonder if it will make a difference???


lockfast

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Aberdeen

I am running on the doughnut type competion bumpstops that fix to the top arm. Nice and progressive. *smiley* I too am looking at changing things around a little this year. Doesnt look like my car is going to see much road action this year. Looks like it is away to embark on a bit of a semi rebuild. Dont you just hate other peoples good ideas?


Scruffy

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Seaford Rise, South Australia

You boys want to be careful as there is a point at which the balljoint will snap without warning if too low! You can modify the balljoints to stop this mind!

On 5th Sep, 2011 Vegard said:
I stand corrected. You should know *wink*



wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

Good point Scruffy, I checked that mine didn't bind at full compression.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph



On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


fastcarl

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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.




On 14th Apr, 2009 Jimster said:

Jim
are you telling me you have no possitive method of location other than the bolts pulling up,

carl


On 13th Apr, 2009 fastcarl said:
i can't understsnd why in those links above folk have removed the locating lip for the rubber/poly/alu spacer,its not just a spacer it locates the tower to into the crossmsmber without the lip and somekind of locating ring the frame is putting a shear moment into the bolts


Carl, I see your point, but the OD of the ring on the subframe is much smaller than the ID of the ring on the cross member so without a spacer it's useless. And you of all people know that weight is evil.

JI m , are you telling me you have no possitive

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


paul wiginton
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On 14th Apr, 2009 Scruffy said:
You boys want to be careful as there is a point at which the balljoint will snap without warning if too low! You can modify the balljoints to stop this mind!


Just out of interest - by doing what?

Paul

I seriously doubt it!


slater

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grinding a bit out of the 'cap' i presume

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