Plumbing????Please help
Turbo Mini Forums

Long time lurker, first time poster, and im asking you guys for help already. This is solely testament to the quality of the posts on this site though. Throughout my turbo build if iv got stuck, iv come on here and been able to solve it by simply jus reading through the posts. So thanks alot guys. But i need your help...

standard metro turbo engine. The dumpvalve and all components are new.

Will upload the pics below to show how it is plumbed in. I have a boost gauge, bleed valve and dump valve. Boost gauge works fine, bleed valve definately works but i cannot get the dump valve to "dump".

As i come onto boost it pulls nice and hard until 3psi or so and then i get a really loud hissing sound (as if its losing air pressure or something).

Could this loss of air pressure (or boost pressure or whatever its called) be not building up high enough in order for the dump valve to "dump"?

What is causing this leak?

Could it be the ducting onto the housing of the turbo? As I havent spent alot of time getting the perfect seal, but is still imo quite a good one (the ducting fits nicely over the housing and has been clamped up with wire. Or does it have to be a 100% seal due to the high pressures of gasses coming out?

Please shed some light on my woes, as im all taxed and motd and want to play, but atm i cant!!

cheers guys, il now try and upload the pics!!, apologies for the 5 year old drawing!

One more question, does it matter which end goes to the bleed valve and which vents to atmosphere?

Hi
On the compressor housing is a brass fitting with two outlets. One should go to the actuator viai the bleed valve and the other blocked off.
I think the middle leg is to atmosphere, don't go over 7 psi on a standard setup!
Cheers
Gavin :)

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excuse my shocking knowledge. Which pic is the compressor housing in???

And to think i even got the car running!

o, and i only have two legs on my bleed valve, its one of those turbo smart jobbies

so are we talking about the third pic? As the blue pipe on the left used to just be joined to the pipe on the right with no t piece in. and obv iv cut it and fitted the t piece in.is that not right then? im still confused????

Hi
Yes sorry third pic is the one. Where does that other pipe you can just see the end of go to?
Yes you will need a good hose clip on that 2"pipe to the inlet.
Cheers
Gavin :)

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the standard actuator is only set at 4.5 psi so little boost there. you need a 8 psi actuator on a standard engine ... in short !

the dump valve needs to be plumbed in from where you have it on the carb straight to dump valve NO! T peice involved a straight pipe to it

the 2 brass fittings which have been mentioned one you will utilise for the boost gauge and the other straight to the acutator

leave bleeding the actuator signal alone till you gain knowlage especially on a standard engine
get a 8 psi actuator and leave it at that !

Edited by BENROSS on 25th Jun, 2009.

could it be the overboost valve in the plendalunium?? not sealed off, and the poppet valve not removed on the disk?

the poppet over boost valves on the plenum kicks in at 9 to 10 psi if its there and working ok ?
i blank this off with boost pressures over 8psi

should be blocked off. its to do with the ecu of old.

over boost valve in the plenum, you can see the spring pete at the right hand side and the seal
make sure its all there and not been stripped out

Edited by BENROSS on 25th Jun, 2009.

good photo.
the wee spring was missing on my first one, all you get is a lot of air escaping

ahhh, ok this is brilliant guys thankyou so much

right so is this right in the two new pics now??

2nd photo, spot on.
now take the boost guage feed from the manifold just like the dump valve.

i see a big nut (no pun) on the manifold, this usualy tkes the servo. run it from there if you like.

from the manifold but from a seperate take off?? what about the 1st picture?

its best to get the pressure of the charge in the manifold, as it goes into the port. more accurate.

1st photo. block the secont out from the bress fitting, as it is not needed now. and set up the bleed valve as you did, i think.
best to get an uprated actuator anyway.

no need to drill. undo the big nut, and screw in an adapter with a nipple, jobs a goodun

im getting there with understanding i think. with the first photo im stil unsure though. the bit of blue piping on the far left of the picture where iv written "boost gauge?" shall i leave that alone? as that goes onto the turbo somewhere i think

that bit needs to be a dead end, it is prob the cause of all the air escaping. its the brass fitting that is connected to the turbo, and it leads to the actuator on the right take off. and to the ecu on the left, which you dont have anymore. so just block it off, see how you go.

right, 2 secs im going to go out and take a photo of where that bit of pipe leads to.just to make sure i can definately blank it off.

right well iv had a look and it is already blanked off!! i must have imagined the fact that it went somewhere. so could this poppet vlave cause the air escape problem?