crank sensor position
Turbo Mini Forums

just a quicky, can anyone tell me what the distance should be between the crank sensor and the pully for megajolt use? i know ive seen it on here somewhere but i'll be damned if i can find it.
the bracket we made is adjustable but i dont know what to set it at?
thanks
steve

Edited by hippyinamini on 14th Apr, 2006.

doh! why did i start messing with it!

Hi,
As close as you can get it without touching. Check it all the way round in case of run out
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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I have read somewhere before 1mm, however I tried this and didn't get a reliable signal when I tested it, so I moved it to 0.5mm and got a much better (regular) signal.

i got one of those timing wheels available from http://www.trigger-wheels.com/ which are all rough laser cut 5mm plate. I cant see you ever getting a good signal without it being very close simply due to the marks left from cutting. If you have runout then god help you :o

Edited by andeh on 15th Apr, 2006.

I've seen the future and tbh its Pie

Andeh, all the ECU needs to see is a transition from high to low. People do make trigger wheels by drilling holes in a piece of metal, by pointing at bolts, using gears of a bicycle or in the case of ford using a bent bit of metal or drillings in a flywheel. All are perfectly valid methods of getting the signal.

What the sensor is focussing on is the presence or the absence of a quantity of ferrous material, the actual finish of the surface is irrelevant. In all cases though the sensor needs to be located 0.5 to 1.5mm away from the surface and you want to try and aim for a runout of .25mm or better. I've seen installations with runout of as much as 1mm which left the height of the sensor varying greatly but even that worked well. With one of those trigger wheels you've got a nice pre-drilled pilot hole so there's no excuse for not getting the runout being minimal.

right cheers everyone, its at about .5mm and running sweet as a nut on just the edis unit for time being, cant wait to get it drivable again so i can map it up properly,
anyway thanks a lot
steve

doh! why did i start messing with it!

Great stuff, you've got the hard bit done now. You just need to connect PIP and SAW to the jolt and you're away. Have you got a map to use or have you read the curve out of your existing dizzy?

lol the jolts actualy connected up but i didnt have a laptop to hand this morning to set it up, got the use of my sistrs laptop tomorrow so gona go load a map in it, could do with a base map to start it off tho if anyones got one?
cheers
steve

doh! why did i start messing with it!

This should get you started

http://www.g2.nu/chris/mini/pictures/20050...ed/mini-map.jpg

will that map do for an Megasquirt as a starting map for a 1293 turbo?

oh cheers, never realised but there was a map already put in, alexf2003 must have put one on for me and not said? anyway just needed a little tweek where there was a realy low advance of 1 deg and was causeing low idle and a bit of a stutter. it finaly moved under its own steam tonight although only a couple of feet just to check it would go into gear and the clutch worked, the top brake line from the master to the T piece got kinked so ive just got to replace it tomorrow night and it should be good for a few test runs!
thanks anyway!

steve

doh! why did i start messing with it!

mike, that map will do for a megasquirted turbo yes. What you will need to do though is add a few extra rows for when you're on boost. 100kpa is 0 boost, 150kpa is 0.5 bar boost, 200kpa 1 bar of boost and so on. When on boost you only need a couple of rows as the fueling curve tends to be very linear so I'd perhaps just add rows for 140, 170, 200kpa.

As a rough rule of thumb to get you started you'll want to remove one degree of advance for every 10kpa of boost above 100kpa. That means that you'll need to modify the row for 120kpa in that map in addition to the new rows, which you can extrapolate.

Steve, all megajolts come with a default map, if it only goes up to about 5000rpm then it's the basemap and you'll need to replace it. If alexf2003 is who I think he is then I suspect that the map you have there is a version of the map that I've posted below.

As far as the low idle goes you do want the idle spot and the site above it to have low advance levels, with the ones below them being rather higher. This helps to stablise the idle so don't be tempted to tweak the idle where adjusting the throttle stop would be the better thing to do.

cheers boosty thats usfull info, no its certainly not the origional base map then, it goes up to 7000rpm and somewhere just over the 200kpa mark.
i only changed the idle on the map purely because on the 1000rpm/70kpa there was a figure of 1 for some reason :S wel that whole line was totaly out of sync with the rest of the map, so i just altered it a little to keep it a little more consistant. ive made sure to keep the origional map just incase it goes tits up too! i was hoping to get it out on the road tonight to see how well it worked but tbh without a laptop to plug in and having a shitty cold/flu thing it aint realy worth it!
thanks for the info, i need it!
steve.

doh! why did i start messing with it!

70kpa is a nutty value for idling, it should be 30-50 if the throttle is shut really. Sounds like you perhaps need to double check for air leaks and possibly wind the throttle stop shut a bit and compensate with more advance. Usually I'd suggest that you'd be running a really hairy cam and the overlap was causing the high map values but on a turbo a hairy cam is the last thing that you're going to have.

Team Racing

lol tbh the engine needs setting up a little yet, its only running a 266 cam, but the carb is running rough for some reason, i had the same trouble last time it was sat for a long time, ive tried cleaning it out, running it dry and flushing it with fuel, and nowt seems to work other than just leave it be and it sorts itslef out eventualy!
either way its causeing it to run rough. it certainly made the engine speed rise when i changed the values on that row tho? like i said i havn't got a laptop to use at present so i cant moniter the changes that close. if i want to change something ive got to unplug the jolt bring it to the computer and wire it up here. i'll hopefully be able to get a cheap old laptop from somewhere this weekend and i can have a propper play then,
steve

doh! why did i start messing with it!

i havent got a laptop steve. i just bring my desktop down to the garage to alter it.
the setting up i did was all trial and error.
seems to work.

balls to the blower!!!



1330,stage3 head, gt1549, canems ecu, S/C box and drops

All you need is a P100 and windows95 to do basic mapping. For in car use I usually recommend a toughbook, which you can get for about 100 quid and are utterly indestructible.

Jimster, those wheels are indeed laser cut and have a very good finish. Plasma cutting is the one that leaves a really jagged finish and frankly anyone who even considers using a plasma cut wheel as a trigger needs locking up!

lol problem i have stu is my car aint where i live, a farmer mate of mine lets me keep it in a shed of his, which is cool because theres loads of room, or there would be if i didnt have 5 minis stuffed in there.. and its nicely out of the way, but on the down side its a pain not being able to simply pop through a door into a garage anyway means its a bit of a pain to drag my pc all the way there, and i dont think the mice would do it much good either!
cheers boosty i'll keep an eye out for one of them, as long as it just runs the megajolt software i dont care what it looks like!
steve

Edited by hippyinamini on 19th Apr, 2006.

doh! why did i start messing with it!

you dont care what it looks like??!!
you would look silly with a pink glittery laptop i think!!!

balls to the blower!!!



1330,stage3 head, gt1549, canems ecu, S/C box and drops

Hippyinamini I have an old laptop loaned to me by another member of this forum to use for MegaJolt mapping, I am sure he wouldn't mind if you used it for a week or so, you'd have to come to Rotherham to fetch it though.

pmsl, ok ok i probibly wouldnt go as far as a pink one, the glittery bit im liking tho....

cheers tom if i cant find anything in the local computer shop this weekend i might take you up on that offer. i come through to leeds every couple of weekends to pick my mate up and head up to minispares north so if all else fails i might be able to call in then on the way past.

well i had it up the road last night and it ran like a sack of spanners :S the mapping needs a good sorting out, and the carb wants rebuilding realy so it was to be expected! it ran better once on boost but it still felt restricted, and off boost it needs a good lot more advance,
it just bogged down and spat at me so gonna have a good weekend mapping and flushing the carb out by the look of it because im skint and cant afford a rebuild kit! plus the rad in my old colt decided to let itself go so i better do something with that if i intend on going more than 5 miles or carrying a 5gallon drum of water in the boot!
steve

doh! why did i start messing with it!

bugger all round mate! hope you get things sorted. if you need a hand, just yell

balls to the blower!!!



1330,stage3 head, gt1549, canems ecu, S/C box and drops

i checked out toughbooks today on ebay. some bargains to be had.

I use a toughbook day in day out and its cracking. its been all over with me. fortunately it means i can use my work one for my ecu

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Panasonic-Toughbook-...1QQcmdZViewItem


looks a bargain, new for £30

seller seems a bit dodgy though.....

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"