*UPDATED* I FOUND MY BOOOOOOOOOST!
Turbo Mini Forums

its worth pulling the pipe off the acatuator and sucking on it, and sticking it to your tounge to see if theres any leaks in it, and iff possible put a puf of air up it with a small compressor or bike pump to cheack it moves.

advancewise at full boost you are looking for somthing a bit less than 30 deg, 25 should be a good starting point, but thats at boost, at part throttle/no boost the engine will like considerably more than this.

also if this is a metro engine the actuator will be set of about 4 psi, as the ecu bled of raising the boost to 7 at higher rpm, are you gettina any boost at all?

it does sound like the dizzy might not be advancing right to me, are you sure its a turbo dizzy?

Hi,
Where is your boost gauge connected to?
If you had the throttle pedal down a fair way 3K should be some boost generated.
I'm concerned about the timing still, you need to make sure you have a TDC reference that is accurate.
Too much advance and you'll be needing new pistons!!!
Cheers,
Gavin:)

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The dizzy was also from avonbar and is a modified 59d4 for turbo use (suposidly). How can i tell the difference?
Boost guage is connected into a spacer between the carb and manifold T'd with a dumpvalve.

Hi,
Hmmmm? You should see boost on the guage then.
The problem could be caused by a few things.
Timing would be high on the list, either cam or ignition would cause poor combustion leaving little energy in the exhaust gas to drive the turbo.
Does the engine sound really throaty, this would be cam timing for sure....
Dump valve, either after market or the factory over boost valve in the plenum.
Collapsed air intake pipe, starves the turbo of air.
I could go on, but start with the timing as you've not confirmed the TDC marks are right. Are there any on the flywheel?
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Unfortunately no marks on the flywheel! I got the TDC mark by gauging No1 on firing stroke (allowing for dwell) and painting a silver line on the pulley. Assuming that each of the pointers is 4 degrees (A+) the timing is off the end of the 5th pointer (>16degrees)?
Cam timing i have checked 3 times now and its spot on, full lift @ 108 degrees ATDC.
Engine sounds quite smooth throughout rev range, a little lumpy on tick over but thats to be expected.

you need a proper tdc point!

if you have an old plug you can smash the ceramic off an bolt a bolt through it so you can screw it into no 1, rotate the engine one way until the piston toughes it mart the pully, turn it the other way until until the piston touches mart the pully, then put a mark half way between these, this is your acurate TDC mark.

I just ran my dizzy welded at circa 28deg...

Not perfect, but functional.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

bov jammed open ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Popped round to see 1380turbo earlier. Very bizzare. Engine runs smoothly. Engine at TDC, rotor arm is almost halfway between points on cap. Which isn't right surely???
Also, the way the boost guage, dump valve & dizzy pipe all come off in the same area on or near the carb spacer. Can't remember a standard metro setup, but is this correct?

Hi,
Always best to use separate pick up points for vacuum, but I can't see that stopping it from reading boost on the guage.
Probably needs the dizzy drive moving round a tooth.
Did you take it for a drive, does it make boost?
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Apparently not boosting when driven.

Hi,
I'm lost on this one.
The turbo will make boost as long there's enough exhaust gas pressure, unless the wastegate is wide open?
Boost will go into the engine unless there's a leak....
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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one thing came up was how to set up the actuator?? Measurements etc
I know my metro is 5psi for 0.015" 0.38mm of movement according to rules.
1380's mini I don't know.........
Hopefully he will post some pics of the pipe connections as well. Best to check. :)

Edited by Jason G on 1st Dec, 2007.

Hi,
As long as there's a bit of preload on it it should make boost.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Will take some pics of my setup tommorrow and post em for clarity. Cheers for popping round milamber, gonna investigate the actuator tomorrow and see if anything comes of it! The turbo was straight from turbo tecnics through avonbar so the actuator will be set as it left the factory.

Will report back tommorrow chaps.

Is it a metro spec turbine housing or escort? If its an escort spec then I wouldn't expect boost at 3k...........

hmmm....essy one was mention. Do tell more Tom.

Escort uses a 0.36 exhaust housing, metro had a 0.25. Bigger exhaust housing means I would expect boost to come on a bit later.
3000rpm on full throttle acceleration might just be starting to do something useful.
But personally I'd have it up the road properly e.g. 5000rpm and see what happens before getting too bogged down in fault finding a fault that might not be there.

Another lesson learned. Cheers Tom

Tom you are a star as always. I will take it out later and rag the arse off it. lol.

I'm not saying that will be it, as I've never driven one with the Escort housing. Jon Flan is the man to ask as his yellow car has this turbo.
But worth a quick blast up the road to make sure before you get too tied up in knots trying to sort it.

Your logic makes sense Tom. Why is Avonbar selling these? Are Metro ones getting abit hard to get hold of???

The 0.25 AR metro housings are NLA I believe, so when a metro turbo goes in for recon, if the exhaust housing is cracked, it is replaced with the Escort spec 0.36 AR housing.

Moral of the story..if you have a knackered metro turbo...don't sell it like me!

The link to my carb setup is below. Anybody see any problems?

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/index.php?p=20&id=4319

Had a look at the actuator this morning and the pull on the rod is fairly heavy so its not jammed open.