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James_H

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Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

yep! daft!you need to get rid of those wheels Tom. post them to TQ14 8LB.

I will dispose of them for you.


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

Post a suitably large suitcase of money to Carl as you too can own some, otherwise hard lines!


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


ministef1

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Cranleigh, surrey

does it hit on the under side of the car, where the inner wheel arch meets the boot floor, if so thats normal when you lower the car to miglia type height? You probably want to fold that lip in the area that hits and then weld it flush, Mine does hit there on occasion and i wish i'd cut mine up, if your using the brake pipes on the top of the radius arm you might want to relocate those to the side to!!!!

"Cars are a lifetime of pain"


Ben.

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Formally Whyte_ben

Horndean, Hampshire

Yeah thats what I thought i'd have to do ministef, although. it just doesnt seem that low to me, maybe its just me.

Does this seem low to people? (Ive only done the drivers side)







Ben.

Edited by Ben. on 31st Jan, 2009.



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paul wiginton
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9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes

That looks a reasonable ride height to me. The front tyres will rub badly though so you need to cut the wing higher

Paul

I seriously doubt it!


Mirage

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Staffordshire or Northamptonshire

When Playing with coil overs watch for rear droop. What i mean is when you jack the rear of the car up from its normal running height. The wheels should remain on the ground and really still be on the spring when you have lifted the chassis by at least 40-50mm. Droop has big effects on handling.

Think about the total open length of the shock, the required stroke / closed length as well as the spring rate and length.

Within reason the spring platform will be used for setting ride height, but obviously this has to be in working range of the shock. Corner weight setting to.


Ben.

628 Posts
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Formally Whyte_ben

Horndean, Hampshire

How it is in those photo's its sat on the front bump stops.

Needs to go lower I do believe.

I plan to cut the arches out soon enough, just as soon as I find the right ride height.



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Nic

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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

Herefordshire




On 31st Jan, 2009 Ben. said:
On 30th Jan, 2009 Nic said:
Ive got some really old spax things, I dont think they even were meant for a mini. They were old and secondhand when I got them

Im using 9" 125lb springs on mine now


Ah I see, hmmmm.

When I measure these ones, they are 14" between the top of the arch and the stud on the hub.

Thats annoying, and is definatly going to set back my project by a few months! Gay!

Cheers for the advice chaps,

Ben.


Just the spring is 9", god knows how long the damper is


ministef1

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Cranleigh, surrey

i think mines around 7 1/2 inchs from the top of sill at the front and about 8 inch's on the rear, remember you might need to jump about a bit on the car to get it to settle......

My hi-lo's (on the front) where cut down to as i couldn't get the car low enough. but not so low my drive shafts are all over the shop. Have a measure....

also remember your on 13's there i'm on 10's, although height next to each other isn't that much, on the car your get some tire squeeze, so a car on 10's will generally be a bit lower.

"Cars are a lifetime of pain"


robert

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uranus

do many people run bump stops ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

also you have fook all weight in the rear at the moment, the spring will compress considerably more once you have the windows and tank and fuel in and pretymuch anything from the gearstick back.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



richminiturbo.

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Horndean - Near Portsmouth

I say get the car done and sell them after for some shorter versions if it still wont go low enough.

Thing that concerns me is how little travel there is left in the shock when its on its wheels, I was bottoming it out from hopping on the doorstep!

Robert - I was debating weather to remove the bump stops or not on my car. Can the car be lowered more with the bumpstops removed, yet the dapening force adjusted to prevent the top arm effectively maxing out, which is what the bumpstop is there to prevent?

Edited by richminiturbo. on 31st Jan, 2009.


paul wiginton
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9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes




On 31st Jan, 2009 richminiturbo. said:
I say get the car done and sell them after for some shorter versions if it still wont go low enough.

Thing that concerns me is how little travel there is left in the shock when its on its wheels, I was bottoming it out from hopping on the doorstep!

Robert - I was debating weather to remove the bump stops or not on my car. Can the car be lowered more with the bumpstops removed, yet the dapening force adjusted to prevent the top arm effectively maxing out, which is what the bumpstop is there to prevent?


If you remove the bumpstops you risk popping the balljoint out. Ive seen it happen

Paul

I seriously doubt it!


Ben.

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Formally Whyte_ben

Horndean, Hampshire

Could the bump stop be shortened to allow more room to lower?



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paul wiginton
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9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes

Just a little bit yes, but you dont want it much lower than that really

Paul

I seriously doubt it!

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