Slammed
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If using red spot cones I believe you'll probably need to machine the hi-los to get the car reasonably low anyway (at least at the front).

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Bit late to the game i know, but a block of aluminium bolted to the subframe to hit the knuckle joint.

Yes i know its the same as has been said before but i doubt a block of nylon will take much abuse from the radius arm before it starts to wear away.

i know you may think this is major pikey or bodge,(which it is) but i just used a front shock modded into a rear configuration....it does work and is very low,

i know you may think this is major pikey or bodge,(which it is) but i just used a front shock modded into a rear configuration....it does work and is very low,

I am fairly sure most shock manufacturers make shocks for standard ride hieght and lowered ride hieght. with my GAZ lowered shocks I have to have weight on the wheels to slide the shock off of the pin and my hi-lo's are wound right in.

Own the day

Yes but the Spax 'lowered' dampers, are not very short!

It may be a case of bite the bullet and change your shocks. The issue is if you lower a car useing sandard length or shocks that are too long for the ride height you want to achieve you could bottom out the piston head.

If this happens you run the very real risk of damaging the valve gear in the shock and righting of the unit.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 3rd Sep, 2009.

Own the day

Thats why sprocket said, earlier in the thread, that he will just have to change his dampers

True missed that, but then there is the why.

One interesting point on lengths is that I cannot fit my shorter GAZ shocks on a standard suspension setup they wont open far enough.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 3rd Sep, 2009.

Own the day

internationally known as "big" swede

would not be surprised if you fitted standard to a lowered setup

Own the day

Team Racing

Edited by Sprocket on 3rd Sep, 2009.

why not use a 4x4 type system on it? little fabric straps attatched to the radious arm and subby which can be removable same with the front?

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I would prefer to fit the correct parts. Im not sure what a 4x4 system is the mini is only front wheel drive

clearly if you lower the ride hight of the car any more than 1/2" with spax lowered dampers, everything gets very loose, therefor you need to fit a different damper that is shorter still, which are available.

The fronts on my car are fine, as i resolved that by fitting the 'lowered' damper mounts as well as the 'lowered' dampers.

I can see in extreme cases that the suspension droop could still be an issue requiring a solution. That solution I believe has already been discussed, and is as near a permenant fix, and a simple task as could probibly be, without any need to tink about it before jacking up the car.

Having to fit something to jack the car up and then remove when you are finnished is not exactly permenant. Besides that, if the car is to leave the ground (British roads are not flat, it does happen ) this solution wont help any.

Edited by Sprocket on 3rd Sep, 2009.

After seeing James thread on the blade arb's and the pic of Paul_S 's arb setup on the miglia Link
i could imagine a nice bump stop arrangement on the tip of the arb's blade

Yes i moved to the darkside

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Bump stop on the anti roll bar! Sweet..
The 4x4 arrangement as used on all live axle'd landrovers is called a check strap and is simply a leather strap hooked around the suspension and upto the chasis, with a quick release buckle type thing, cheap effective, etc.. lol

Which is exactly what I suggested earlier when I said leather straps......

i imagine nylon webbing would also be ideal for that, and light too

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