centre main strap?
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Green paint? I thought that was for painting your garden shed with?


See a picture of a 4 bolt main cap, the next step from a strap.

Edited by Tom Fenton on 22nd Apr, 2005.

i'v done a bit of research and does anyone see a problem with fitting a complete stud girdle wich links all three mainbearing caps 2gether? I'v seen it done on 350 chev motor and it made a huge difference! My only consern would be clearences with the gearbox.
Does anyone think there would be great benafit from doing this or would it just be overkill??

Thanks. Chris

998 turbo

I think the crank would also hit it,

Team www.sheepspeed.com Racing

Looking at Toms Picture above, I'm agreeign with JimStar...

Ive seen these made for rover v8's when they heavily moddifyed are producing enough power to twist the block completely.

Im not sure out litle a-serise can do that and if it could im sure the 3 bearing crank would break before the block twists out of shape.

yea, good point, my engine isnt going 2 b "that" work'd so there realy isnt much point

998 turbo

An old thread revived but had a similar question - didnt want to do another topic on it.

What do you make of this?

http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=...204%20BOLT%20TY

Bearing in mind you can also get the same from here:

http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/product_d...79&vlang_id=323

Its not MED who are supplying the cap but another company (who I wont name) but the price is very very similar.

The company have also charged for honing the block elsewhere in their quotation, so am I right in thinking that this basically equates to 125 quid just to drill two holes?

Whats your thoughts on this??

Thanks,
Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

The MED price includes the line-boring of the mains whereas the Minispares price is just the cap.

Honing the block refers to the cylinder bores and is not the same as line-boring the mains.

I know because I collected my block with a 4 bolt main from MED yesterday.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Ahh I see. Getting confused between the two

When they say bore and hone block, what is honing the cylinders?

Thanks,
Chris.

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

Honing is the final stage of finishing the cylinder bores after boring.

It's done with a special grinding machine and ensure pefectly round and straight bores to a very high accuracy. Plus it leave the bore surface with a hatched finish good for sealing the rings.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Is it actually worth the extra money and getting all 3 steel main caps, or just the 4 bolt centre cap?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Oh right, cheers, i think i may just go 4 bolt main, im not going anywhere near 300, on my build, more 120hp.

Thanks very much.

at 120 i would say its debateable if you need anything other than a well sorted crank and rods for safety measures. maybe even just a strap.

a 4-bolt IMO will be abit overkill.

Yeah fair shout, but thats only going to be for a short period of time, im hoping to slowly keep moding and changing and trying new things to up power etc. So may just do it first of so its already done, if you know what i mean.

Also i should be using a kent 310 cam so it should be a high reving engine so that extra strength in the bottom end will be piece of mind.

some places will hone the main bearing bores to size. pretty unusual i think though.

The design of the steel bearing caps is such that there is a fair bit of excess metal to machine off. the cap/s are normally line bored to remove the largest chunk of the metal, then finished off to size by line hone.

A high rev motor, I would recommend the four bolt center cap, but I do think replacing all three caps a bit OTT. For an engine that will never see high revs, a steel strap is good enough, but then, there are those who just use the standard cap with decent bolts.

Dont forget to read the thread about mains bolts as well, the ones that come with these strap/ cap kits are shite!

A four bolt cap is like purchasing an insurance policy against failure

Edited by Sprocket on 29th Nov, 2008.

Which thread is this?

What is wrong with them?

1310cc TWINK - T Conversion

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=154716

So, now I've quit using main straps after seeing this:



That's my own racing engine.

What rpm was that spinning too?

To be honest looking at the size of a standard cap I'd be suprised if it would move anyway, fit some decent dowels and I'd say you'll be ok up to 8k. Well I have been with standard cap anyway.

Edited by minimole23 on 8th Nov, 2011.

So you are going to stop using steel straps because you have seen how rough your crank if finished off, lol

how many meetings did it take for the crank to look that rough,lol

carl

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