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Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
You can pull the filters out the top with a self tapper and some pliers. You'll need new ones to put back in though :(
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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carl talbot

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If its pumping fuel in and not firing at all due to voltage drop , maybe partially hydraulicaling causing the starter to draw too much.

With ign. off , try connecting a battery [jump leads ] directly to the starter and block to see how fast it turns over this will at least narrow the prob, then swap starter , this will eliminate prob as engine mechanical and or starter related .
Once you've got it turning over nicely on spare battery try the ign.

you could also turn off/disconnect fuel pump and try chucking an egg cup amount of fuel straight in to intake while cranking , it should fire a few times , this might isolate prob to fuel or sparks

Havn't got a clue about all the electronic malarky you're up to but it looks like you're doing great work from which a lot of people will benefit
Keep it up and best of luck
from a humble mechanic


Paul S

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On 24th Feb, 2008 Bat said:
Hi,
You can pull the filters out the top with a self tapper and some pliers. You'll need new ones to put back in though :(
Cheers,
Gavin :)


The injectors have had new filters fitted according to the cleaners. I was just wondering if crap could get under the pintle and jam the injector open. I now doubt that it could.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Scruffy

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Seaford Rise, South Australia




On 24th Feb, 2008 carl talbot said:
If its pumping fuel in and not firing at all due to voltage drop , maybe partially hydraulicaling causing the starter to draw too much.

With ign. off , try connecting a battery [jump leads ] directly to the starter and block to see how fast it turns over this will at least narrow the prob, then swap starter , this will eliminate prob as engine mechanical and or starter related .
Once you've got it turning over nicely on spare battery try the ign.

you could also turn off/disconnect fuel pump and try chucking an egg cup amount of fuel straight in to intake while cranking , it should fire a few times , this might isolate prob to fuel or sparks

Havn't got a clue about all the electronic malarky you're up to but it looks like you're doing great work from which a lot of people will benefit
Keep it up and best of luck
from a humble mechanic


This is what I have said from the beginning - hard wire the starter so the ECU has its own 12 volt supply! Anything where there is more than one component is unlikely to be your cause!

On 5th Sep, 2011 Vegard said:
I stand corrected. You should know *wink*



Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

they arn't that fine though are they?

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



bill shurvinton

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9V is too low for the LC-1 or the MS to work properly. With the 2 batteries on what is the voltage recorded by MT?


Paul S

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On 26th Feb, 2008 bill shurvinton said:
9V is too low for the LC-1 or the MS to work properly. With the 2 batteries on what is the voltage recorded by MT?


After a long charge, it is now cranking at 10.5-11 volts.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


bill shurvinton

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hmm, having problems posting.

The funny readings on the LC-1 would have been from low voltage more than likely.

Likewise MS is not brill at staring with under 11 volts available. But you still should have a blue spark.

I'll get a couple of new coil drivers off just in case.

Bill


bill shurvinton

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hmm, having problems posting.

The funny readings on the LC-1 would have been from low voltage more than likely.

Likewise MS is not brill at staring with under 11 volts available. But you still should have a blue spark.

I'll get a couple of new coil drivers off just in case.

Bill


Paul S

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Thanks Bill,

You have an email.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Paul S

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Inspected injector wiring - not good but not earthing. I'll probably take the manifold off at the weekend and see what is happpening fuel wise.

Tried a different coil pack - no change.

Compression tester is in the post.

Some new ignition drivers for the ECU are in the post - currently prime suspect.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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You said earlier that a timing light showed the spark at the right time.

What sort of timing light are you using?
The early type that goes in series with an HT lead and uses the actual HT (only) to flash the tube, or the newer type that simply has a pick-up off an HT lead and connects to 12V to get the power for the tube?

The reason for asking is the older type gives reasonable certainty the spark is actually jumping the plug gap under compression, whereas the newer type will operate even if the HT voltage is too low to jump the gap under compression.

Rod.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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Yes, I'm using the newer type with a pickup and separate supply.

As I said from the start the spark is not great and now with more volts, it's still not.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


jbelanger

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Montreal, Canada

Paul,

I'd suspect the VB921s also. By the way, which resistor value are you using between the CPU and VB921s? There has been different values recommended for different reasons but it seems some people were having weak sparks with higher than 330 Ohms resistor values.

Jean

http://www.jbperf.com/


Paul S

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On 28th Feb, 2008 jbelanger said:
Paul,

I'd suspect the VB921s also. By the way, which resistor value are you using between the CPU and VB921s? There has been different values recommended for different reasons but it seems some people were having weak sparks with higher than 330 Ohms resistor values.

Jean


Bill built the ECU, so maybe he can answer this.

We are going to try an alternative to the VB921 this time.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk




On 28th Feb, 2008 Paul S said:

We are going to try an alternative to the VB921 this time.


Which alternative ? ISL9V5036P3 are what I'll be using.

Just a final thought before you swap the ignitors - can you get a voltage reading as close as possible to the centre LT tag of the coil pack, ideally feed a VERY fine wire into the centre tag of the plug and push it on (has to be VERY fine so as not to spread the female tags) otherwise into the loom immediately next to the coilpack and see what voltage there is when cranking.
I keep thinking back to the partially melted fuse/holder and wonder if you have a high resistance connection somewhere in your wiring preventing the coilpack getting best battery voltage.

Jean, I've also wondered about the gate resistors, some parts of the manual say 330 ohm, some 680 and in one place I have seen 1k ??? I assume the higher values best protect the CPU but the lower values provide a better trigger.

Rod.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


robert

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uranus




On 28th Feb, 2008 Paul S said:
Yes, I'm using the newer type with a pickup and separate supply.

As I said from the start the spark is not great and now with more volts, it's still not.

as a quick and dirty experiment ,try closing the plug gaps up to 15 thou . it wont solve the prob ,but may prove the culprit .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


jbelanger

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On 28th Feb, 2008 retired said:

Jean, I've also wondered about the gate resistors, some parts of the manual say 330 ohm, some 680 and in one place I have seen 1k ??? I assume the higher values best protect the CPU but the lower values provide a better trigger.

Rod.

That's the intent. However, with only 2 VB921s (or another IGBT), it shouldn't be an issue to use 330 ohm resistors and you're more likely to get more reliable sparks. The worse case I've read about having low value resistors was having resets. This is something to watch for if you go with the 330R.

Jean

http://www.jbperf.com/


Paul S

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No compression on 3 & 4 cylinders and not a lot on 1 & 2.

Can't give exact figures as I do not believe the crap tester that I bought off ebay.

No. 1 - 1 bar
No. 2 - 4 bar
No. 3 - 0
No. 4 - 0

How I managed to do that just revving it hard on the drive, I do not know.

So engines coming out.

Thanks everyone for your input, but turned out to be something fairly fundemental in the end.

Edited by Paul S on 1st Mar, 2008.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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That's a real shame.

Would it not be worth pulling the head first (before the whole engine) to see what happened to try and understand why it happened so suddenly?

Rod.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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On 1st Mar, 2008 retired said:
Would it not be worth pulling the head first (before the whole engine) to see what happened to try and understand why it happened so suddenly?


Good call.

I would not want to do the same again to the freshly rebuilt 998.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Tom Fenton
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Ho hum, bugger. Be interesting to see what lies within, though.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

That is a surprise Paul,

a mechanical issue is the last thing I expected.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Paul S

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Well the head is off and I cannot find anything wrong.

No burnt valves or seats - the head is on the bench with some parafin in no. 4 chamber and it wont go away, so it's not the head.

The bores are in perfect condition, no vertical marks at all that may indicate ring damage. A slight ridge at the top as you would expect. Pistons are tight in the bores, no slop at all.

I've got some oil in no. 4 and that wont go away either.

It still feels tight to turn over. It's quite a pull on the fan to get the pistons to move.

The compression tester consistantly gave me some compression on no. 2 and nothing on 3 & 4 but I can't work out why.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


evolotion

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take it the gasket was in good nick then? any chance it hydraulc'd on fuel and ruptured a wee bit of the gasket? wouldnt show on the gasket with the usual burn marks then.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

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