Mirage manifold, and standard inlet.
Turbo Mini Forums

Started fitting up my manifolds the afternoon as was a little slack at work, found that the manifold flange on the exhaust is thinner then that of the inlet. How have you gents got round this, is it as simple as just turning a set of stepped washers to compensate the gap difference?
Also, before I find out the hard way, is it easier/best to use the existing studs (to the head) or replace them with 5/15" socket caps (if so what length?)
Thanks guys.
Shane.

Hi,
I usually file some off the inlet where the washer clamps down to get it all nice and level. Vizard recommends the cap head screws, but I don't know what the access is like on the Mirage setup to fit them.
If you measure the stud from the head end to the far edge of the plain bit in the middle, then add the thickness of the washers, you should be right.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

Edited by Bat on 2nd Apr, 2007.

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file down the manifold, i would only use stepped washers as a ladt measure personally

im using 5/16ths studs and k nuts (they have a 10mm head, and by using a 1/4" drive socket fitting is MUCH easier)

ive been thinking about trying some bolts but have never got round to it, if you do try it let me know how you get on- for a length take out a stud-measure the thickness of the threaded bit that goes into the head, then add the thickness of the manifold flanges to it

file it down

how is the clearance under the inlet to the top of the mirage manifolds?

I had to thin mine down to get a couple of mm clearance, where as I think iain got away with out needing to do anything with his, there is definitely some variation in either or both parts which is understandable with castings and fabrications.

Am I right in thinking the manifolds where designed for fitment with the mg metro style manifold instead of the log-style turbo manifold?

Hi,
Dan ... I'm sure you're correct on that.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Right then, update!
Dan, manifold fitted with no Fouling.
Nic, filed the inlet down to match, as suggested, had a play with fixing methods to the head, had to file a flat edge on the two washers for stud 2 & 5 (if numbered in a line)
With studs, odinary 5/15" nuts fitted fine on the outer and inner pairs, but on stud 2 and 5 it was impossible to get a spanner in, so hence the need for k nuts.
I also had a play with some socket caps, the ones i had laying around was too long and was not fully threaded, but attacked it with a saw, and a stock and die and managed to have it near what was needed.
Conclusion, socket caps will work well on all 6 fixings fine, the only prob I found using them was on the centre pair (either side of the centre port) you could get a allen key (either "T" bar or on a 1/4" drive ratchet) in to tighten them up but the carb had to be off the manifold, but concidering how easy these two are to tighten from above using 5/16" normal nuts and a spanner, I'll leave them for ease of removing the carb and manifold in one.
Fitting the socket caps with the manifolds on was a little tight (manifold touching head) but possible if the manifold was moved 5mm awy from the head.
Thanks for your help guys,
Shane.

Hi,
Good job that man! What was the length of the socket cap bolts in the end?
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Cheers chap, finally achcieved somthing constructive.
They are 5/16" unf x 1 1/8" length preferably full threaded, failing that if in bolt form the unthreaded section needs to be half inch (if that makes sence?) any longer wont allow the manifold to be pinched before you run out of thread. The two "end" bolts need to be 3/4" in length, same applys to the non threaded section, but no greater than 5/16".
Shane.

Nic, You naughty boy!!!

Those 5/16 knuts use a 3/8 af socket !!! lol

Manifolds were designed with MG style inlet as they are available to buy.

I'd stick with studs as you will wear and pull the thread evrytime you tighten a bolt. Studs are the right wat to do it.

I used unbrako studs, i think of 1" in length and found them far better than studs for getting things on and off.

I can probably do a set posted for about £2. not sure on the postage you see

I had to buy by the box.

I can get at mine with a ball ended allen key with everything assembled, even the ones that are awkward with the carb on.

I know this as i tightened them after first fire

I filed mine as everyone else until they were exactly the same thickness and flat then used the big manifold washers where i could.

I had no inlet to exhaust clearance issues.

for reference here are some shots with the turbo manifold and mirage manifolds. this was before cap screws were fitted but as you can see from the shot inline with the studs you can get at them. its not as easy with the carb on but i have done it.

Hi,
Iain ... Drop me a PM I'd like a couple of sets of bolts off you, please.
Chweers,
Gavin :)

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