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Carl

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liverpool-on-sea

right this is how the engineer fellow did my center main strap. he races midgets and this is how he does his. now ive run this last year and all seems fine and i have no intentions of changing it but thought it might be interesting for people because ive never seen one done this way before. oh and i would like you opinions just out of curiousity.

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


iain
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Sold the turbo and seeing what the C20XE can do!

Near Lincoln

looks neat and should do the job nicely.

my engine builder told me to remove as little as possible from the strap.


Carl

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liverpool-on-sea




On 16th of May, 2007 at 06:51pm iain said:
looks neat and should do the job nicely.

my engine builder told me to remove as little as possible from the strap.


yeah thats what he said "theres no point in removeng material just to add material" or summot like that lol

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


Tom Fenton
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Personally I prefer to see more of the cap machined flat so as the strap supports it more.


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Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
I'm with Tom, with the cap machined flat the load is better distributed across the strap.
I've see a Toyota highly modded engine that had 5 mains straps and all the caps were machined flat....
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Gavin :)

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iain
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Sold the turbo and seeing what the C20XE can do!

Near Lincoln

But maybe with it machined this way it will ensure pressure is applied in the most important places?

The engine builder i use is one of the top mini builders in the country imho and from what i've heard.

(think he built endaf's miglia engine?)

To be honest i dont think that the standard cap needs much more support so either way works equally as well.

*smiley*


Richie

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a LIL fishing village on the coast - Newcastle Upon Tyne

did you need to mod the box with the mod done ure way ? just the cap will stick deeper into the box ?



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On 17th Aug, 2009 Jay#2 said:
I doubt I'll be dipping into the 13's like you did though!






BENROSS

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well it clearly works but.. iam with tom & bat on this one also

it looks like a band aid job to me






Carl

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On 16th of May, 2007 at 09:00pm Richie said:
did you need to mod the box with the mod done ure way ? just the cap will stick deeper into the box ?


nope it fits in the box ok.

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


Carl

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On 16th of May, 2007 at 10:42pm BENROSS said:
well it clearly works but.. iam with tom & bat on this one also

it looks like a band aid job to me


lol well time will tell i suppose. (fingers crossed)

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


Jimster
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Who's that Iain? Dave Wells?

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On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

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wil_h

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Out of interest how many peoploe have broken caps either with a strap or without?

At least two standard 998 blocks that I have aquired have ahd broken centre caps. Never broken one with a machined flat strap though.

I personally prefer the machined flat aproach, there are at least no tollerance issues with fitment then.

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On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Richie

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a LIL fishing village on the coast - Newcastle Upon Tyne

i have not broken caps but i was advised after one of my engines went bang that due to not using the strap a failure at 6500 rpm on the rollers, i was told the crank was flexing which caused the end cap of me conrod to fail.....of course this is no doubt bullshit. but at the time seemed plausible



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On 17th Aug, 2009 Jay#2 said:
I doubt I'll be dipping into the 13's like you did though!






Turbo Shed

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Epsom, Surrey

come on Ian spill the beans, who is this mistery engine builder?

i use a guy called Oz of OAP and he is also one of the top engine builders in the country. he also machines the cap flat first.


danwebster

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Dave does peter baldwins engines I beleive, he may well do others - he does some trick bits too!


iain
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Sold the turbo and seeing what the C20XE can do!

Near Lincoln

not who i thought *happy*

mike barratt is who i'm on about. he's behind the scenes of a lot of things but rarely comes into the spot light.


Jimster
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no he built mick greens engine, Endaf runs SH / Dave Wells

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On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

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turbo hogster

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stowmaket suffolk

personaly i would machine flat as the strap will support the whole of the cap, the way he has done it to me looks a waist of time.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas


MikeRace

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I agree! I think it will be up to the job!


On 16th of May, 2007 at 07:21pm iain said:
But maybe with it machined this way it will ensure pressure is applied in the most important places?

The engine builder i use is one of the top mini builders in the country imho and from what i've heard.

(think he built endaf's miglia engine?)

To be honest i dont think that the standard cap needs much more support so either way works equally as well.

*smiley*

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nick1275

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mines machined flat, the radius'd bit has been left a couple or mm thick either side and the cap has been notched out to accomodate if that makes any sense!

On 1st Mar, 2009 MikeRace said:
Hmmm weberyyy


On 21st Apr, 2009 madcatminis said:
I hope she's got knickers on or you'll have a funny runny mark on your bonnet. Quite like what a snail leaves behind.


turbodave16v
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Well, there are two ways to look at this: Remove the material from the cap such that a cast component is now weaker than it was before you started, and support it with a sizable lump of steel - or - remove enough from the cap to achieve a surface that you can suport properly with a lump of steel.

Strikes me - that both will work and do the same job - of supporting the main cap and preventing a failure of the cap or preventing further damage as/when the cap does fail.

I quite like the approach shown here, but it is absolutely worthless unless the spacers are machined EXACTLY such that there is no gap at all. This would be easilly done I imagine by tapping them to (say) M8 and pulling them agaisnt the cap with bolts, then machining the lot flat, removing the spacers, and drilling them out to clearance.

The main point though - is has anyone ever cracked a centre-cap that was machined for a (conventional) strap, and wasn't cracked before?
If not - then this method is probably OTT. If this HAS happened previously, then this seems to be a superior option.

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Carl

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the spacers where machined exactly right dave, i really cant remeber exactly what he said but it were like he did it with half a ftlb of nip on the top or something like that. (dont quote me lol i have a habit of not listening properly and just thinking hmm that looks cool)

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.

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