coolingmist / aquamist water injection?????????
Turbo Mini Forums

thinking of getting one of these kits to save my motor going pop. anyone using/fitted one and had any bad experiences???? noticed whilst the us dollar is at quite a good rate, might get one imported from the states. ta. stu

balls to the blower!!!



1330,stage3 head, gt1549, canems ecu, S/C box and drops

The general consensus from proevious threads on the subject is that water injection is a bodge.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Water injection is used on turbo prop aircraft to increase torque during certain operations, so wouldn't exactly call it a bodge. However that's mainly to increase density than prevent detonation, which AFAIK is the primary purpose on reciprocating engines.
However I would say there are better ways of getting more power.

There is no sense crying over every mistake- you just keep on trying til you run out of cake.

Hi,
While what Wil said is true with turbo motors, supercharged can be more difficult to get an I/C in full stop.
This being the case I'd say use it, as any thing that reduces charge temps is better than nothing.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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I wouldn't necessarily call Water Injection a bodge.
When used the fuelling needs to be re-mapped as leaner mixtures can be utilised at the same boost level without detonation.
There are downsides such as you will be lean should the water run out unless a safety system is in place for table switching or fuel enrichment.
Used in the right way it can be effective but I am afraid that it is not viable on an A-Series.
TurboDave used to have an aquamist system fitted to his car but removed it as it offered no advantage. I seem to recall that it actually caused the car to perform worse.
With Nitrous on an A-series the same fuel air ratio will reach all cylinders (give or take) although the quantities entering each cylinder will vary. This is due to the port robbing characteristics of the siamesed inlet.
If you consider the above example and then imagine what is happening when injecting water you will see that different volumes will enter the cylinders. With water injection it is important to keep the ratio relatively static.
You ideally want the same volume of water in each cylinder in order for it to do it's job effectively.
As previously mentioned this is not possible on the A-Series.
Spend your money on something else that will offer a better performance enhancement or improve reliability.
Under-crown oil squirters, bigger intercooler, mappable ignition will give better results.

Would this system be better on an Injection Turbo/SC Mini!

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


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Everyone who has had it in the past, no longer has it.

Says it all really.

hmmm. cheers. i dont want it to gain extra power though. i'm running 20psi dont forget and when i nail it, it uses a phenominal amount of fuel, due to the size of the blower. after a little while, the temp creeps up and the engine starts detonating. all i want it foris to come on at higher boost just to keep the cylinder temp down. i really dont want any more power, it scares me shitless as it is!

balls to the blower!!!



1330,stage3 head, gt1549, canems ecu, S/C box and drops

Well, given that your intake temps at those boost levels out of an Eaton screw blower will be ridiculously high, cooling the intake charge is clearly going to yeild a benefit. In short - running an Eaton at that boost is naturally going to give problems, even moreso as you are not intercooled.

It's clear you're adding extra fuel in there already as an attempt to cool the intake charge anyways.

However, i don't consider water is the way to go for your road-going application, unless you fancy keeping a 5-gallon tank full to cover the amount of water you'd likely need between fuel stops (unless you want to top-up the fluid EVERY day - or hour if really gunning it). This is one of the reasons i junked my aquamist system - i was so annoyed with keeping it topped up, aswell as trying to select the right jet for 3000rpm and 6000rpm (obviously demand increases wrt RPM).

Why not look at a new intake manifold that allows you to either split the outlet of the blower and entry to the intake and direct the pipes to a front-mount intercooler, or get even a small heat exchanger (charge cooler?) sandwhiched between them.

Edited by turbodave16v on 14th Jun, 2007.

hmmm thats a good idea dave. i thought about it but due to the size of the blower and the tighness on space, i couldnt do it. the intake took me the best part of 2 months to make too, so that is going to happen, but not untill the winter when i rebuild the motor and change/improve a few things. what size tank where you using. i take it you were using a staggered system??? the more rpm the more injection?

balls to the blower!!!



1330,stage3 head, gt1549, canems ecu, S/C box and drops

Put methanol in insted of water !!!!!!!!!

It a dangerous thing to need it to stop your engine going, if some thing, just think if there is a blockage some where if you rely on it!!

Best 1/4 mile 13.2 seconds @116 mph
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First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on Injection?

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9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

its a band aid for not doing the job properley in the first place ....

Quote
(corky bell) maximum boost

balls to the blower!!!



1330,stage3 head, gt1549, canems ecu, S/C box and drops

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

cheers stevie. the type of answers i'm after! i really dont want more power from the motor. using the car normally or when going at a steady speed is fine. its when i nail it for periods. it revs to 6k sometimes! it gets hotter then so its at this point i just wanna help the engine a bit. it wont blow the engine if it blocks because i will just back off and let it cool. how often u fill the tank. turbodave said his was regular.
that doesnt bother me really as it only does 10 mpg!!!!!!!!

balls to the blower!!!



1330,stage3 head, gt1549, canems ecu, S/C box and drops

Just a thought, if you had a manually triggered water/meth injection system you could even use that new feature on megajolt/squirt to switch it over to a different map. Possibly something worth looking into.

There is no sense crying over every mistake- you just keep on trying til you run out of cake.

was thinking of using the jolt as the trigger

balls to the blower!!!



1330,stage3 head, gt1549, canems ecu, S/C box and drops

heres my answer to under bonnet temps ........................................

Parking it under a washing line???

How does that help?

LMAO!

On 15th of Jun, 2007 at 01:33am BENROSS said:
heres my answer to under bonnet temps ........................................

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

When queueng to race at Santa pod etc..., ive seen intake charge temps as high as 60degC, rising once I start racing, mostly due to heat soak.

Inject water/methanol, and these soon drop to ambient again, circa 20-30degC

No amount of holes in the bonnet will do that.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Whenever i've had 'heat soak', by the time I've done my burnout, the temps are back to civility once again - do you not find this the case with your setup Steve?

If i had done absolutely everything else possible, then maybe I'd consider using mapped water injection...

However; in this particular case where a roots blower is being asked to make high boost (something it doesn't do at all efficiently), a re-think on the supercharger type, or at the very least intercooling is by far the best option before waterinjection. I think this is what BenRoss was trying to get across), and hence the 'band-aid' designation is quite apt (IMO).