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minimark

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2641 Posts
Member #: 19
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newcastle

ok so me air con does not work , the light on the dash comes on but the air con motor does not engage.also the coolent fans don`t cut in either.when i remove the multi plug from the temp sender the fans cut in , so i replaced sender unit but still fuck all .
now i read that the sender units works in conjunction with the air con (god knows why).
there are 2 wires going to the air con motor one is green/yellow and one is orange , with the engine running there is no power going through either one ......?? should there be or is it earth triggered??
plus there is no power going through the temp sender .. is that correct or not???
checked all fuses they seem ok

so anyone got any ideas
or has any one got a diesel pug with working air con and a test lamp to find out where i should have power and where i should not .....
because these 20 degree heatwaves we are having are doing me head in

and yes jim i have tried opening the window !!

Everyone knows that instructions only have to be read if the thing doesn't work....


Carl

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2924 Posts
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liverpool-on-sea

is there gas in the system, if theres no gas in it then it wont work.

im assuming by aircon motor then your refering to the pump mounted on the engine?

Edited by Carl on 25th Jul, 2007.

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
Probably no gas it it! There's a pressure switch which shuts the system down when the pressure is too high or low.
The Switch is on the Reciever, a small metal canister with a sight glass on the top, think its near the front panel on a 406.
All of the gas has usually oozed out after 3-4 years....
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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minimark

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2641 Posts
Member #: 19
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newcastle

ok cheers it was working a few moths ago .. anyway of checking if its gassed or not?

Everyone knows that instructions only have to be read if the thing doesn't work....


minimark

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newcastle

yes mota is on engine ....

bat .. i know where you mean

Everyone knows that instructions only have to be read if the thing doesn't work....


Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
Run it into quick fit/local A/C place for a free check?
Should take them 2 mins to connect the gauges and check.....
Failing that when you locate the switch, you should have a feed in and out at least with the A/C on.
There should be a feed in, a feed out for the compressor relay and another for the fan relay.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

Edited by Bat on 25th Jul, 2007.

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Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

Other way of doing it is to bridge the pressure switch wires and see if the acu compressor kicks in then. If it does then its out of gas, don't run it like this for more than a few seconds though as running it with no gas will fcuk it up.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


pete

439 Posts
Member #: 275
Senior Member

bonie scotland

hi mark, as you no i drive refrigirated trucks, you can catch one of fridge mechanics down at co op they normally top up air con for £20 which is cheap, olso run your air con once or twice a mounth, this stops seals on compressor going dry and pump going tight,


shane

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2643 Posts
Member #: 1246
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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

The compressor has and electric clutch on it, as long as the hp (high pressure) and lp (low pressure) switches are made the clutch should have power when the ac switch is on, ive not had too many probs working on pug ac systems over the years, fords have been the worst!!!
As has been stated gas seems to be the obviuos, and most common cause, eithwer as pete mentioned through dry shaft seals not sealing, or a stone chip on the condenser coil (infront of the rad)
Ideally the system needs to pressure tested with oxygen free nitrogen. All kwick fit will to is a vacum test to prove the system is not air tight, with positive pressure its far easier to pin point, please I reccomend that you not use kwick fit as they are normally ill trained monkies, and dont have a clue (no offence to anyone on here if they work for them!!!) I have lost count of the cars I have looked at that have been to them!
The refrigerant used is R134a which is a blend of two gasses, one of which has a very small molecular structure and can escape from a very minor flaw in the integrity of the system, leaving the other half (if you like behind) also leaving a near to full gas chage behind (but not correct in means of efficancy), this confuses most k/fit workers as they cant work out why they have recovered a full gas charge but the system didnt seem to work, but did when they "refeshed" the gas charge. Get a reputable A/c firm to check it, far more thorough than k fit, and not just out to replace parts!
If you was closer I would have a look for you (am a refrigeration and ac engineer) but due to the distance all I can offer is advise, if you need any further help please pm me Ill send my no and Ill talk you through a few things.
Sorry bout the long post, hope it helps
Shane.

Edited by shane on 26th Jul, 2007.


turbo hogster

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stowmaket suffolk

well the bad news mate is that pugs and citrioen uses ally pressure pipes and not galvo steel so the crack and leak the gas, then the seals dry out and they will leak every were .

i know as mine has same problem and the guy who is trying to repair it says they are the worst on the market.

on the plus side for me he works in the army so labour is free, he is going to put some dye in mine to find any more leaks as he has alreadey replace 4 seals but we think the pressure switch is leaking on the rad so watch this space.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas


minimark

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2641 Posts
Member #: 19
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newcastle

ok cheers lads.
i`ll have a word with our milkman, he drives a ref truck for the co op ..he must know someone in there workshop

Everyone knows that instructions only have to be read if the thing doesn't work....

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