Front mounting plate bolts.
Turbo Mini Forums

Can someone tell me what Ibf ft should these 2 bolts be please.
Cant seem to find the right torque im looking for in the haynes..
Not sure if it matters too much. but seeing this is my first time, i want to get it spot on, incase of leaks etc..
Thanks alot..
Oh yeah, nice plate mate

Shit Happen's

Hi,
Just nip them up. You won't get any oil up there! The cove ones are more important.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Shit Happen's

You will have to take those bolts back out to fit the cover

not if the cover is A series, or if he is running a belt drive setup

You running duplex as well?
You might have to take the csk holes a bit deeper. They look like theyre protruding a bit.

Back once again like a renegade master

Wish I had a light weight plate like that! only jesting TD
Got TD thinking of other projects..................

Edited by Jason G on 27th Oct, 2007.

I just must say. I was fitting one of these the other day, and those press fitted bolts are fantastic. I don't care about the weight saving, but those bolts. Thanks Dave :) No more fucked up 1/4" UNF threads..

I must say I was wondering how those were fitted, look a really smart solution when I've seen one of Dave's plates.

Id fit your crank pully before finaly tightening the cover bolts. It will center the seal. They have a tendancy to leak otherwise, and that is not so good on a belt drive set up

Something really odd has happened. I typed something and it got pushed back an hor due to BST thingy

Are you using Nyloc nuts? If so try using a plain nut, and a spring washer to secure it.

Yeh those bolts look real nifty, in the right places as well where they are can be real awkward bastards when the engine is in the car.

Got problem now.
One of them press fitted bolts on the plate is giving me jib.
The bottom one in the pic.
as i tighten the nut up, the bolt keeps turning round. it's tight a little though.
All the other's are fine.
Ive tryed to get something behind the bolt to press against it as i try to tighten the nut up.. but no joy.
I stuck the plate on using the gaket and wellseal of course. then left it over night. so its nice and sticky. so dont want to start taking the plate of now.
Would it still be ok not tighened up to the 5Ibf ft. ive packed it well with wellseal. ?
if not, any other solutions ?
And im running a belt drive setup
Cheers :)

Shit Happen's

Something is clearly amiss here.
Why is the stud turning if the nut hasn't even bottomed out?

These studs should never spin.

Ok, had another look - are those the nuts I provided? The only way a stud could spin is if the nut was cross-threaded (or the wrong one)and tonked up, or a nylock fitted?
One of the reasons why i send the plates with the nuts on them - it's so I know the threads are fine. They are a loose 'spin' fit onto the threads - you certainly shouldn't need a spanner / socket on them until they've bottomed out.

I am interested to see exactly what has happened here - so if you want to send me a PM, then that is fine. Alternativly - if you want to continue dealing with this on a public forum, that is also fine. I've no problem with that.

One final word though - If it's spinning, it'll always spin. I doubt it can be re-pressed in either as the alloy is formed into the stud - and if it's loose, then it has removed the material, and will not work.

All you could potentially do is to remove it and weld a 'tang' onto the back of the stud, and retain this as you spin the stud.
Again, though - I cannot understand how this has happend; but am interested to find out to see if this can be avoided in the future.

Edited by turbodave16v on 28th Oct, 2007.

It looks to me like they are nyloc nuts?

Just about say the say Tom. We use press studs at work, they don't take too much effort to spin. Wouldn't use nylocs.
Dave supplied normal nuts with the plate in my picture.

Edited by Jason G on 28th Oct, 2007.

The nuts are not nyloc, it has a spring washer behind it, (ill remover them) so it looks like a nyloc nut from the picture
I was gonna chicken out and just PM dave lol so thought i may as well come clean and tell everyone what a wanker i am..
Anyway, i got the nut off, pain in the ass, but My own fault though.
yes dave, i used a different nut, same kind of nut, but stainless steel, as ive changed most things to stainless.
the others took the stainless nuts ok, just not that one... sooooo, i put your one on dave, and guess what, it worked
What plonker rodney.
So slaging me off is welcome
But what a great bit of craftsmanship dave..
Sorry mate

Shit Happen's

At least your honest. :)

Did you try 1/4UNC stainless? If you did - it should have worked? Maybe the one nut you tried was incorrectly cut - or an M6 had got mixed up in there?


No worries about this - I was sure something would be amiss. I was ready to send another plate over but hey presto, no need!


If you'd be willing - I'd appreciate some pics of the plate being fitted up - and with the belt-drive (and all bolts) fitted. The first one (but without the arrows - lol) would be ideal for one!

Edited by turbodave16v on 28th Oct, 2007.

No worries mate.
Here's the plate with out the arrows
More will follow next week.
as im going back home for little while.
Cheers once again.

Shit Happen's

Looks good :)

Hi,

Can anyone tell me what bolts are used to secure the cam triangle and also the 2 fixings under the crankshaft?

Minimall supply an 11 bolt kit for the plate... are these bolts for the holes around the permiter of the plate (that line up with the perimeter of the cover?) If so that totals 10, is the final one the fixing top left in the picture that secures the plate to the block?

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