Diff trouble!?!?!
Turbo Mini Forums

Ive just bought the Mini spares molybdenim X pin diff for my 1275 metro engine.

Put it together, and I can turn it by hand, but sometimes it gets abit stiffer and is quite hard to turn.

Ive read in one place that a tight diff is desireable, the Bill Sollis dvd also says that, but ive read in the metro manual and it says it should spin freely.

Also, the Bill Sollis dvd says that 1 thou of Diff preload is required, ive read on here its 1 to 2 thou, and the manual says 4, so did a guy in Minispeed.

Im thinking, someones wrong, or, it generally doesnt matter if its abit tight, and whether you have 1 - 4 thou preload.

Any thoughts?

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go for the top preload

thay are a shade stiff as they are new as long as its not binding solid and you can turn it with your hands you should be fine

re check your work to make sure you have not made a mistake anywhere!

Edited by BENROSS on 16th Dec, 2007.

Thanks alot mate,

erm, go for the top reload?

I have 2 thou at the moment, shall I order a 2 thou shim to make it 4?

Thanks in advance.

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EDIT: PRELOAD ........

i would if it was my gearbox

all depends on what bearings you are using, the half outer race style uses 1 thou the full outer race version uses 3-4 thou, most now are the full outer race riveted metal cage type

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

Ahh I see, I have the type with the plastic ball cage, so its 1 thou.

Ive just built it with 1 thou anyway.

Thanks again.

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the half outer race ones wont take the pastie
they will explode in no time at all

hoggy you had the same as me ?

The engine he is buidling it for is a 1330 n/a, aiming for around with 100bhp with samey torque.

Would the older type bearing not cut the mustard at that level?

Rich

the bearings i mentiond above the halfe out races

i blew on with a N/A many years ago

there only around a tenner each from minispares north for the right ones

Thanks people!

Im gonna order the bearings, but carry on and bolt the block to the gearbox then re-fit the diff once i have the bearings.

Also, is it worth replacing the bronze bushes that go in the output cases?

Thanks.

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Slide the pot joints into the side covers and judge for yourself, I've never felt the need to replace them though.

Ps - WHen you mount your block on an engine stand. Where do you bolt it?

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Most people from what I have seen make their own adaptor to fit it to the alternator bracket holes on the front of the block.
Shane