electronic dizzys
Turbo Mini Forums

has anyone tried that adjustable dizzy from 123ignition? the one with 16 different advance curves at the click of a switch or some such bollocks?
is that suitable for a turbo anyway?

thanks
tom

Warning:Stig in Training

found this. some useful info and probably the best OT topic ever
http://turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=8483
may the fruit be with you!!

Edited by El Potter on 13th Jan, 2008.

Warning:Stig in Training

i have one on my NA car, works a treat, but megajolt would be better.

but seeing as im terrified of anything electronic and that no TM member is within a 100 miles it would save a helluva lotta aggro and frustration
so is it usable on a turbo mini?

Edited by El Potter on 1st Jan, 2008.

Warning:Stig in Training

I've only heard good thigns about the 123 Dizzy's. However I've only heard of them being used on N/A cars. Some of curves would suit I imagine.

Personally, I use a Hitachi Electronic dizzy from an N12 Nissan Pulsar on my supercharged Mini. Works really well, despite what that points people say.

I'd love to give a 123 a go, but I jsut don't have the money to spend on the supercharged beast.

Supercharged 1964 Morris 850 - Now 1330cc with 7psi.

Hi,
You may get away with postion 0 if you're not running too much boost.
You won't know until you've spent your money and put it on the rollers.
The problem being is that you need to retard the timing for boost, the only way to do that with a dizzy is have a boost retard capsule (a vacuum advance unit that works both ways)
If you've got to spend money on that dizzy, I'd spend it on MJ instead.
You can take it in steps. Fit the EDIS stuff first and get it running on that, you can leave the dizzy in and swap back if needs be.
Once you've got it running on EDIS add the MJ, there's nothing stopping you going back to a dizzy at any time.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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but the problem is Bat that Mj takes a lot of experience and experimentation and a good knowledge of computers and electronics to get it to work properly, and i just dont have that
besides all you lads are 3000 miles away and cant just pop over to help in exchange for a couple of beers or sister pics or something

thats whats making me think twice about it

besides as turbo dave said int he above link,it would make a lotta peeps lives much easier

doh! just realized i forgot the link in my second post
added it now

Edited by El Potter on 13th Jan, 2008.

Warning:Stig in Training

Hi,
From my point of view it doesn't seem that difficult, but then I've been doing this for 20 years.
With the dizzy you're making a compromise, but taking your location into account, the better option :)
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Hey - You are wrong about no-one being in Malta!!

It's all fun and games until someone gets hurt... Then it's hilarious!

well if i was you i would stick to this mate.

take standard elec dizzy apart and weld up the weights.

refit together and leave of the vacuum advance to and set to 25- 26 deg fixed advance.

that way you can run what boost you wish with out the dizzy timing being a issue.

however other factors will still count eg boost, fuel levels ect

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

Hogster,how can dizzy timing not be an issue? I am under the impression that advance varies with boost pressure.

And I don't suppose there's a tutorial or something about what to weld and how?



BTW RedWing, where abouts are, what's your nickname, and do you have any pics of your Mini? I might have heard of you

And do you run MJ?

Edited by El Potter on 15th Jan, 2008.

Warning:Stig in Training

once the timing is fixed to the above you shouldnt have too many problems in this area, as if you cant control timing effectivily then alsorts of problems occure eg det ect, but being fixed its not so much a issue as long as you dont go mad on boost , but also depends on how good the IC is ambient temp and fueling and most inportant CR.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

id second what hogster says , fix the dizzy internals so they cant open up and advance , leave on the vacuum ,and play around in the 20 to 30 degrees range ,depending on boost and compression ratio and fuel quality and intercooler efficiency .

Edited by robert on 16th Jan, 2008.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

welded dizzy it is then
thanks lads

btw, I do this to the standard metro turbo dizzy right?

Warning:Stig in Training

I'm going to against all the cavemen on this forum and say that welding your dizzy is Sooooooo last century.

You will have an engine that is only correctly advanced above 3500 rpm, below that its overadvanced and detonation surely does occur at those rpm's. It will have to crank at 26 degrees, idle at 26 degrees and will therefore possibly overheat (your in Malta yes?)

The standard dizzy advances around 16-18 degrees over the 10 degree static timing so you get 26-28 degrees anyway..I would rather idle at 5 degrees and advance to 23 degrees. I can see removing and locking out the vacuum advance if that worried you but welding it up??

Dizzys can be modified for curve (springs/weights) and max advance (filing/welding the stops), do a search before you weld... maybe the older points type of dizzy is are easier to mod, you could just use an Ignitor type electronic module for reliability.

BTW for every post here on someone who has had problems with MJ I'll bet you theres 10 people who just got it working. buy a prebuilt tested module and all you have to do is work out the crank sensor, fiddle a bit, and learn, isn't that what this hobby is all about?

Terry

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

you know terry, i was thinking the same thing
the learning is what its all about right?
i'm not sure what im gonna do though,cos everybody s got an opinion on the subject and im getting bloody confused :(

Warning:Stig in Training

Hi,
Stick with my plan above, use Nic's how to guide, and you know how to post a message on here, right?
By a pre-built unit like Terry said :)
Cheers,
Gavin :)

VEMs Authorised Installer / Re-seller. K head kits now available!

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Found this excellent guide to modifying old points type dizzys.

http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/lucastuning.pdf

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

I would go for Mj, i dont have a very good knowledge of computers, but with the build guides on the forum it was hard to get wrong, The only fiddle i had was getting the trigger wheel set correctly but after that it was fine! I have had no problems since! And i must say it has improved the car no end! starting driving reliability has been excellent!

Well I've decided to do as Bat said,bite the bomb,and get MJ.
After all,you don't learn if you don't try.
And loosing the dizzy will free up some valuable space at the front.

Warning:Stig in Training

Hi,
Good man! You know there's plenty running them on here, so plenty of help.
If you leave the dizzy in till you're happy with MJ, you've got a one wire to connect back up plan
Cheers,
Gavin :)

VEMs Authorised Installer / Re-seller. K head kits now available!

WB/EGT gauges. Click here for customers write-up

Visit www.doyouneedabrain.co.uk

My Mini build diary

I was in the same situation last year, but follow Nics guide and you can't go wrong! I couldn't believe how simple it was. lol

I now find myself in exactly the same situation but with injection.lol

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi