Brakes very poor DUNNO WOT ELSE TO DO
Turbo Mini Forums

Rite i have no idea wot else it could be the peddle is still really soft and barely stops the car and stays soft even if i pump the peddle loads of times it gets a little hard but not enough to make any difference

it's non servo

i have checked the rear shoes theres about 5mm left on them so sure they're fine. one cylinder was leaking so changed it and cleaned up the shoes and drum. one cylinder was changed not so long ago and was fine

then bled the brakes twice

then adjusted the rear drums till there was as much drag as i could get sounded like the shoes were just about rubbin on the drum

then put new front pads on. pumped the brake up and drove it up the road and still only just stops.

hand brake seems really strong.

i didnt bleed the brakes after changing the pads never have before and never had a problem.

just so you know the rear drums, hoses and subframe all came off my jet black which had awesome brakes.

I've got plenty of spares if i need them but i dunno wot else it could be

What calipers have you got on the front?

It sounds as if the backs are still working fine

What master cylinder do you have? The plastic tall one, or one of the bean can variety?

fluid been changed?

Back once again like a renegade master

The only thought is that the master cylinder isn't the right one for the brakes or needs new seals? When i did my brakes i thought i had wound the rear brakes to a suitable position, but it was nowhere near alothough sounded it. In the end i wound it right out so the brakes locked then came back and found a good point of adjustment. My car brakes really well now.

The shoes need to be centralised before you adjust or they loosen up when you drive a bit. If you pump the pedal does it firm up? And if so, if you pump then hold it does it slowly go down? Sounds like there's still air in there or you need a new master cylinder.

not being funny but did you rember to top the fluid back up... if you have new pads they will always not work was well as they are not bedded in that is what i have found on every car i work on at work.

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

AIR STILL IN THE SYSTEM

if all is adjusted up correctley!

get one of those pink rubber bleed hoses for around a £1 and use that
if still no joy the seals may be passing on the master cylinder
or the bias valve on the rear subframe may be duffed if its that set up


keep us informed

also did you double check the feed to the new rear cylinder is on really tightly?

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

right first of need to know when the brakes went soft. were they working and then you done something and they went soft. of did they just go soft?

does sound like they still have air in them. and is normally something simple like that. all bled in the right order?? everything tight? (im not trying to be patronizing its just easier to check the simple things first, sorry if it sounds that way. :( )

when adjusting the rear drums, like what has been said above tighten them until the bind on and then slacken off. then drive a little way and press the pedal to center everything up and recheck.

next thing to check would be the bias valve. and then if all else fails master cylinder.

but normally just air so make sure you have all the air out first even if it does mean investing in a eezebleed doofery chap wotsit.

AlexF

calipers on correct way round ( bleed nipples at the top)?

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-

I had a simular problem, turned out to be the master cylinder... seals had gone. didn't leak but got no pressure.

Hi,
Never tried this but the theory's good.
wedge the brake pedal down with a lump of wood over night. Hey presto good brakes in the morning
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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