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 (2)[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/150672766@N03/]Rod Sugden[/url], on Fli) 5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
25th Feb, 2008 at 08:25:05pm
On the left, after three attempts to weld a nut on top of the broken one it came out !!!
Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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 2924 Posts Member #: 95 Post Whore liverpool-on-sea |
25th Feb, 2008 at 08:37:39pm
stud removal....... i thought this was going to be a pertition to get nic banned from the forum lol no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.
On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl. |
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 1913 Posts Member #: 1392 Pointless Post Whore Liverpool, North west |
25th Feb, 2008 at 08:38:34pm
lol Back once again like a renegade master |
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 12307 Posts Member #: 565 Carlos Fandango Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex |
25th Feb, 2008 at 08:39:01pm
is that the Exh housing i flogged you? On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged... Joe, do you have a photo of your tool? http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1 https://joe1977.imgbb.com/ |
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4309 Posts Member #: 1321 Post Whore Wiltshire |
25th Feb, 2008 at 08:43:04pm
Slightly crude and probably not recommended. But I had a shered bolt on a cylinder head. Gave it a bit of heat, then gave the bolt a couple of good tonks with a hammer and then simply undid it with a pair of mole grips.
Edited by minimole23 on 25th Feb, 2008. On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding |
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 4559 Posts Member #: 786 Post Whore Bermingum |
25th Feb, 2008 at 09:00:51pm
Hi,
VEMs Authorised Installer / Re-seller. K head kits now available!
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4018 Posts Member #: 1757 Back to Fucking Tool status Swindon |
25th Feb, 2008 at 09:14:59pm
i also have a snapped stuf in my turbo, i do not wish to take the turbo apart though as it is in good working order still. but i think ill have to, it sheerd below the surface as well. i thought about drilling a hole through and then tapping a anti clockwise thread in the middle but im not sure you can do that lol Drives
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 1060 Posts Member #: 588 Post Whore Delaware, USA |
25th Feb, 2008 at 09:25:03pm
I just bought some ultra high temp anti-sieze paste from a turbo place, anyone used it ? question is-- is it any good?
website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk
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 834 Posts Member #: 2017 Post Whore Warwick. |
25th Feb, 2008 at 10:13:36pm
when i was doing re-conning turbo's at work basicly every turbo that was in had at least 1 snapped stud...such a pain!!
Edited by mini93 on 25th Feb, 2008. David. |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
25th Feb, 2008 at 11:07:11pm
On 25th Feb, 2008 mini13 said:
is that the Exh housing i flogged you?  No Joe, it's one that came with the other bit's I've just got off eBay !!! I seem to be collecting parts at the moment !!! Finally got all three studs out after 2 ??? (lost track of time) hours. All three needed drilling in the end, I managed to weld nuts on top of the two longer ones but one sheared the stud below the flange immediately and the other after three turns out .... 
Don't you just hate Minis .... Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
25th Feb, 2008 at 11:16:02pm
On 25th Feb, 2008 Bat said:
Hi, You need heat and lots of it 
Red and Black is the way forward when working on the exh side of turbos Cheers, Gavin :) Yep, every other time I've been here the sheer heat from welding the nut on top of the broken stud has done the trick, ie undo it while it's still glowing red...... This time the welds failed every time (and the stud kept getting shorter) and, from the weld failures, it looked like the stud material is very high alloy (not a good weld to mild steel MIG wire). Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
25th Feb, 2008 at 11:24:38pm
On 25th Feb, 2008 minimole23 said:
Slightly crude and probably not recommended. But I had a shered bolt on a cylinder head. Gave it a bit of heat, then gave the bolt a couple of good tonks with a hammer and then simply undid it with a pair of mole grips. Not for these broken studs but to free the bolts in the centre section of the turbo (core to exhaust housing) I did essentially the same, but with an air chisel... Round blunt ended chisel on top of the six bolt heads for a few seconds and it broke away all the corrosion and those six all undid without drilling.... Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
25th Feb, 2008 at 11:39:53pm
On 25th Feb, 2008 Turbo Tel said:
I just bought some ultra high temp anti-sieze paste from a turbo place, anyone used it ? question is-- is it any good? http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info....products_id=608 Purely a personal thought.... that product actually says "Contains no metals (becuase most don't withstand these temps), safe for all types of metals. Military grade" but from my experience it is only the metal based lubricants that actaully prevent seizing at high temperatures... Copper based ones are most obvious (ie, brakes) but I use Nickel based ones myself, much better IMHO but harder to come by. The threads I've just recovered in my turbo were by using nickel based lubricant for drilling out the broken bits and re-tapping the threads. Everyone will have their own opinion though :):):) Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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 5329 Posts Member #: 140 Proven 200+bhp & Avon Park 05,06,07 Class D 3rd place |
26th Feb, 2008 at 12:24:46am
On 25th Feb, 2008 Carl said:
stud removal....... i thought this was going to be a pertition to get nic banned from the forum lol LOL mate that's a gooden! Turbo Tel that sounds like a good idea, never tried it, but liking it if it works. Best 1/4 mile 13.2 seconds @116 mph
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1060 Posts Member #: 588 Post Whore Delaware, USA |
26th Feb, 2008 at 12:49:22am
I looked around for non-metallic compounds and it seems that there are different types of metal. All types have a high temp version, nickel and non-metallic seem to go highest and and some are best for use with steels some with alloys. The non-metallic ones seem to be suitable for all types of material. Seems that they can be just as good but are a bit more expensive.
Edited by Turbo Tel on 26th Feb, 2008. website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk
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 6549 Posts Member #: 1149 #1 Basshunter Fan Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes! |
26th Feb, 2008 at 07:52:10am
Drill it out, i got the dad in law to sort it (hes an engineer) he took one look at smiled and said "dont worry son, leave it with me".
1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.
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834 Posts Member #: 2017 Post Whore Warwick. |
26th Feb, 2008 at 07:39:42pm
yeah we always clean the thread out anyway, just part of the re-man process David. |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
26th Feb, 2008 at 09:25:37pm
On 26th Feb, 2008 Turbo Tel said:
For some reason "nuclear grade" kept popping up betcha that grade works!! Now that's strange, it seems to say that on my tin :):):) Seriously though, the "Nuclear Grade" is more to do with what they aren't allowed to put in it rather than the base material (nickel in this case). There are a few other "additives" in normal high temperature lubricants but are totally banned in nuclear applications just in case they get somewhere other than the thread they are lubricating. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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