Body Work
Turbo Mini Forums

I have got to the stage on my project where I am being forced to do the body work on the shell. (see P38 post). The problem is I am absolutely useless at it. In the past (see the TT and my road mini) I have paid for a man to do it, but I am hard up and I suppose it is time I learnt to do it to a half decent standard. I understand that it is an art and it takes years to perfect, but I am not looking for perfection at this stage.

So my questions:
1. Are there any good books that I can get hold of to help.
2. Anybody got any advice. My big problem at the moment is sorting the de-seaming.

Cheers

Ben

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

1.
Use Flapper discs when smoothing weld over, they are a god send and make the job much much easier, i started out using grinding discs but they are far too harsh, with a flapper you can prep the area near to a good finish.

2.
Also when applying Filler make sure its as even as possible, dont leave big chunks sticking out as youll just make work for yourself.

3.
And when rubbing the filler down do long strokes accross the filler, i used to small little ones but youll get no where and just use your hand to feel for the bumps.

4.
Dont worry too much about how the filler feels however, you might think the panel is as warped as a carmels arse, but when you test spray you may be suprised.

I did all the body work on mine, new rear quaters, new scuttle, mk1 light conversion, tubbed arches and ive never had any experience with before hand. If possible get a body prepper to come and watch you for an hour to tell you where you are going wrong.

Hope this Helps

Cheers

Mike

P.S are you spraying the car?

Edited by MikeRace on 29th Feb, 2008.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

patience is what you need for bodywork. Always be prepared for more prep after the first coat of paint goes on - its all a bit of trial and error

buy some dope,

once stoned you will happily spend may hours sanding untill its perfect rather tan getting pissed off with it after 10 mins and thinking F it that will do.

Agree with Joe on this one!

Any mind numbing jobs like this are best done stoned. You will become obsessed with getting it right rather than getting pissed off and leaving it for another day.

Make sure that you don't do anything like brakes or suspension (or any major decision-making) whilst under the influence though. You will do it the most arse ended way imaginable and forget to tighten things up etc.

(Word of warning from experience lol)

In the 13's at last!.. Just

I gather Its a trend in essex then lol. All Panel Beaters are stoned.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

not just the panel beaters lol

hayns do a bodywork repair manual, a bit outdated but as a starter and home user its perfect

i you want on let me know i can see two in the charity shop window across from my orafice

All as mike says, and

yes use flapper wheels to get it somewhere near smooth

Dont be afraid to use hammers to get the body level, and then filler to get it right, infact this is quite rewarding

Apply the filler as necesary, bit by bit and blend it together, this can take ages, but one day itll suddenly be right and you'll just be using your fingers to get the small areas (like the lines that run around the middle of the car)

Once i got the shape somewhere near (not that close really) i stopped using the DA sander and did it all by hand
I got a few batons of wood and wrapped wet and dry around them, some long, some short, some fat, some thin and just used those to get it right

I also used those foam sanding blocks that you get from B&Q. I find them really good, again i just ended up wrapping wet and dry around them.

You may be suprised how wide you have to go with the filler, but dont worry, once youve finished this will be very very thin

Those areas around the bottom by the wheel arches are a right pig, but dont forget (i did)-the wheel arches will hide a multitude of sins!!!

And finally a good coat of primer filler really does make the world of difference (and smells like those banana sweets you got when you were a kid)

If you get really stuck feel free to leave it round mine for a few weeks when the weather gets warmer

Edited by Nic on 29th Feb, 2008.

Like Nic says User Filler Primer! You can fill the grand canyon with that stuff! Im luckily as 2 of my best mates are Painters!

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

As above .

The de seaming process will be extreamly long , you need to cut a few inch then weld then let it cool down then repeat over and over again. Id honestly leave it with the seams on if your a novice unless you fancy a chalenge.

I could pop and have a look if you do get stuck

Rick

think it already is deseamed mate

bodywork is a pain & i have no patiance but..........i could would'nt pay for it unless my m8 did it,

take your time! use your hand to feel the canyons that need filler, use decent filler, upol no1 easysand is easy to work with, as others have said, that yellow filler primer is great stuff!

use long pieces of wood covered in the paper your using to sand! makes the panels easier to get straight & match

do all the shuts, gutters & hard to reach palces 1st then move to larger panels!

you'll see i take none of this good advice on my car due to patiance & the lack of it!

2 beers n lock yaself in the garage

SKYLINES ARE LIKE CLITS, EVERY FLANGE SEEMS TO HAVE ONE: see this sticker on my silvia

the Search-section on this forum is blummin superb & simple to use, unlike some other forums, without the search-section & the help of this bunch of chaps on here i'll never be able to !!!Start the day with a 998cc turbo!!! :) i'm getting closer though!

Tom Fenton says: I have it all, make me an offer

I think the main obstacle in bodywork prep is patience. I know I am certainly guilty of getting an area 60% right, and then having the fatal thought of "I'll just see what it looks like now with some primer on". Shortly after that you have the fatal "ah bugger it I'll paint it" moment.

Patience is king I'd say.

however you go about flatrtring any filler dont do as my old dad used to do when he would patch up the front wings on his MK 3 Cortinas, ie pile a shit load of bondo on the proceed to flat it down using wet and dry in the palm of his hand. chrish he was fucking crap at that kind of thing , and still would be if the need arose,lol

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

Thanks for all your advice. I think I have the basic idea. The car has got to the point where I have nothing to do but the bodywork so it look like I will have to be patient, bits at a time.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

before deseaming add some sheet metal straps 4"x2"welded on the back of the seams so they dont distort so much! the front obviously dont need them!

grind an 3" off the seam then weld it & go like that till its done, it wont take much to weld it its the finishing, but a mike says.......flap wheels to finish the welds off, also if you tap the seam after welding & linishing it to very lightly dent it in it'll be easier to get the profile right, if your new to bodywork, go to a body shop paint/materials place ^ buy a profile comb!!! invalueble for this lark, there not pricey either

as for the rest of dinks n dents dont put filler over paint! clean dents back to bare metel & feather the paint out, taper it, you know what i mean, any bare metal, use etch primer, 2 upol etch rattle cans should be enough, use it sparingly, then when your happy with the filler work & you feel you have the body str8, coat it in thin coat of filler primer then a thick-ish coat when the previous has gone off a bit, then........use some black rattle can paint and dust it over the filler primer from about 2ft away just so you get speckles over the hole body, let it dry, the flat the hole car with 400 wet n dry, the speckles will show where the body is high n low, build the low areas up with filler primer, 9i've done this to good affect) & repat the flatting, when its straight flat it with 500-600 then coat it in ya normal primer 2k or whatever you use, then repat the rattle can speckles, flatting with 800grit & you should be about there or there abouts for a 1st paint coat! have a beer wait till tomorrow wipe the car down wihtpanel wipe, mask where you need to, panel wipe again & tack wrag the body, then put a dust coat of gloss on the hole car, wait 20-45 seconds, then go for a 1st thin colour coat............update us in your thread too

SKYLINES ARE LIKE CLITS, EVERY FLANGE SEEMS TO HAVE ONE: see this sticker on my silvia

the Search-section on this forum is blummin superb & simple to use, unlike some other forums, without the search-section & the help of this bunch of chaps on here i'll never be able to !!!Start the day with a 998cc turbo!!! :) i'm getting closer though!

Tom Fenton says: I have it all, make me an offer

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=9446

SKYLINES ARE LIKE CLITS, EVERY FLANGE SEEMS TO HAVE ONE: see this sticker on my silvia

the Search-section on this forum is blummin superb & simple to use, unlike some other forums, without the search-section & the help of this bunch of chaps on here i'll never be able to !!!Start the day with a 998cc turbo!!! :) i'm getting closer though!

Tom Fenton says: I have it all, make me an offer

Cant agree more on how much extra work you need to put in after you "think its OK" I always say I'm not going to paint another car but end up doing it, Its immensly satisfying when you get it right.

I always start with a couple of coats of epoxy primer over the bare metal and make sure its a different colour than the primer/surfacer( eg. red and grey) Use at least 3 coats of primer/surfacer to build a nice layer.. then you start blocking it.

As Clubmini says, Best way is to apply a spit coat with white or black aerosol can and then start blocking until the spit coat has gone, low spots will show up in the colour of the spit coat. if you can not get rid of the low spot it after a reasonable amount of blocking apply another couple of coats of primer/surfacer and another spit coat and start again. Any time you see the epoxy colour immediately stop and shoot some more primer/surfacer.

That way you leave a layer of epoxy on the bare metal and its great at sticking to metal and preventing rust.

Then I shoot 3 more coats and start again... (Thats the bit where you are doing the extra work after you think its OK) Dont worry, you dont need dope, by this time the paint fumes will have sent you totally doolally.

My website has a few pictures of this process.. 3rd pic down, look for the white low spots and the red spots where I started hitting the epoxy.

http://www.terryhunt.co.uk/mini/pics/body/picsl/pics.htm


Terry

Edited by Turbo Tel on 1st Mar, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk

On 29th Feb, 2008 slater said:


Indeed, by me, when i was 12

Seriously

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

i think i was a bit hammer happy on one side

The worst bit was the valance tho

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

When using wet'n'dry, rub down in circular motions and as above. Helps feathering edges and preventing marks. A light spray of a dark colour before flatting off works well.