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Markie_D

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Had my tracking done, which he said was 2 degrees out.
He also showed me a little play on the drivers side front wheel.
as he kind of rocked it left and right, you could see a slight play in the wheel.
passengers side is fine.
Would this be either top or bottom ball joints.
ive just repalced them all.
shall i re- shimm then up again ?
Cheers

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Tom Fenton
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Not being funny, but uou need to get it jacked up and wobble the wheel whilst observing to see where the play is. There is no way anyone can diagnose which ball joint it is over the bloody internet! Also check track rod end and steering rack as well as ball joints.


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theoneeyedlizard

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From what you've said, I'd say it's the top one. lol!

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Markie_D

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On 15th Apr, 2008 Tom Fenton said:
Not being funny, but uou need to get it jacked up and wobble the wheel whilst observing to see where the play is. There is no way anyone can diagnose which ball joint it is over the bloody internet! Also check track rod end and steering rack as well as ball joints.


Stop getting angry tom lol
I see your point. ive just jacked it up, took the wheel off and wobbled it left and right. i noticed it has something to do with the
steering rack on the driver side only.
it kind of has a back and forth play on it.
it's not the track rod ends, as there brand new.
so whats this mean then, new steering rack.
I did put some of them cad spacers on there,
to make it a 2,2 turn. would this course any problems..
I dont know, hence why im asking *wink*

Any help would be great.
Cheers lads.


Edited by Markie_D on 15th Apr, 2008.

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Jay#2

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Did you use non-guenine ball joints? I did and they are a curse. If the hub moves in relation to the upper and lower arms it's the ball joints. If the disk moves and the hub doesn't its a wheel bearing.

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Tom Fenton
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I'm not getting angry, just telling it how it is. Stevie Wonder would be more help than someone a few hundred miles away on a computer, sometimes there is no substitute for having a good look.

Don't discount either the track rod ends or the rack as they are new, I've seen some absolute junk replacement spares over the years. If the spacers you mention are the lock-limiting ones, these should not cause any play.


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Ric

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I got so bored of trying to diagnose it on mine that i replaced all 4 balljoints and both track rod arms. Doesn't cost a lot and at least you know it's right. Worth doing the wheel bearings at the same time.

And yes, if they're not right, you'll need to reshim until they are.


Paul R

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not really (top//bottem)baal joints if its side to side play, they are more of top to bottom play

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Bat

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Hi,
If there's play in the rack the only solution is to replace it. Just make sure the new one isn't all sloppy too, before you start!
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Rob H

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On 15th Apr, 2008 Ric said:
I got so bored of trying to diagnose it on mine that i replaced all 4 balljoints and both track rod arms. Doesn't cost a lot and at least you know it's right.


I always do the top and bottom ones at the same time, simply because they are sold in pairs.

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wil_h

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On 15th Apr, 2008 Mini_Uk said:

I see your point. ive just jacked it up, took the wheel off and wobbled it left and right. i noticed it has something to do with the
steering rack on the driver side only.
it kind of has a back and forth play on it.
it's not the track rod ends, as there brand new.
so whats this mean then, new steering rack.
I did put some of them cad spacers on there,
to make it a 2,2 turn. would this course any problems..
I dont know, hence why im asking *wink*




Deffo sounds like the rack to me.

Those spacers do reduce the steering lock to 2.2 turns, but I hope you now don't think you have a quick rack?

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Markie_D

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On 15th Apr, 2008 Jay#2 said:
Did you use non-guenine ball joints? I did and they are a curse. If the hub moves in relation to the upper and lower arms it's the ball joints. If the disk moves and the hub doesn't its a wheel bearing.


There all guenine parts from minispares.

On 15th Apr, 2008 Tom Fenton said:
I'm not getting angry, just telling it how it is. Stevie Wonder would be more help than someone a few hundred miles away on a computer, sometimes there is no substitute for having a good look.

Don't discount either the track rod ends or the rack as they are new, I've seen some absolute junk replacement spares over the years. If the spacers you mention are the lock-limiting ones, these should not cause any play.


Im messing mate.
*tongue*

On 15th Apr, 2008 Ric said:
I got so bored of trying to diagnose it on mine that i replaced all 4 balljoints and both track rod arms. Doesn't cost a lot and at least you know it's right. Worth doing the wheel bearings at the same time.

And yes, if they're not right, you'll need to reshim until they are.


Ive not so long replaced the whole lot :(

On 15th Apr, 2008 wil_h said:

On 15th Apr, 2008 Mini_Uk said:

I see your point. ive just jacked it up, took the wheel off and wobbled it left and right. i noticed it has something to do with the
steering rack on the driver side only.
it kind of has a back and forth play on it.
it's not the track rod ends, as there brand new.
so whats this mean then, new steering rack.
I did put some of them cad spacers on there,
to make it a 2,2 turn. would this course any problems..
I dont know, hence why im asking *wink*




Deffo sounds like the rack to me.

Those spacers do reduce the steering lock to 2.2 turns, but I hope you now don't think you have a quick rack?


I only put them on to stop the wheel rubing on the wheel arch when turning the wheels.

I had a real good look at it, and thought it was the rack.
but im no mechanic, so i cant figure what it is.
any tips on how to check whats it could be.

Thanks alot.

Edited by Markie_D on 15th Apr, 2008.

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Tom Fenton
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Grab hold of whatever you think has the play and try and move it about to see if it does have play.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Jay#2

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Did you shim the ball joints right? Mine settled in and loosened up, mainly to do with them being cheap to start with. Do as Tom says, wiggle and see where the movement is.

On 7th Nov, 2008 Nic said:
naeJ
m
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Markie_D

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On 15th Apr, 2008 Tom Fenton said:
Grab hold of whatever you think has the play and try and move it about to see if it does have play.


Yep did that. turns out to be the top ball joint.
I shimmed it up ok. but after a few weeks of driving, it's got very loose *surprised*
So ill reshim it up again. :)
Cheers..

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Markie_D

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On 15th Apr, 2008 Jay#2 said:
Did you shim the ball joints right? Mine settled in and loosened up, mainly to do with them being cheap to start with. Do as Tom says, wiggle and see where the movement is.


Yeah shimmed them up ok, which i thought.
And it have loosened up like u say.
Hmmm, i might shit it up tight this time round.

Cheers

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Andy500

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I always lap new ball joints in to prevent the need for reshimming so soon. Just make sure you clean them out good and proper after doing so.


Andy500

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I always lap new ball joints in to prevent the need for reshimming so soon. Just make sure you clean them out good and proper after doing so.


Markie_D

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On 17th Apr, 2008 Andy500 said:
I always lap new ball joints in to prevent the need for reshimming so soon. Just make sure you clean them out good and proper after doing so.


Sorry but what do you mean by lap them in?

Cheers :)

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Andy500

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Just the same as you lap valves in. Use valve grinding paste (i use the coarse compound) assemble the joint without shims, grease or the bottom spring and attatch the ball/shaft in the chuck of a drill. you dont need loads of paste just enough to take the high spots of the ball/seats. Give it a minute or two on low-medium speed and then clean everything up throughly. You will notice that the seats and the ball are a lot smoother and should have a matt grey finish to them.

Then rebuild the joints as normal and you should find they will last longer before needing reshimming as you have already taken off any high spots.


Markie_D

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On 17th Apr, 2008 Andy500 said:
Just the same as you lap valves in. Use valve grinding paste (i use the coarse compound) assemble the joint without shims, grease or the bottom spring and attatch the ball/shaft in the chuck of a drill. you dont need loads of paste just enough to take the high spots of the ball/seats. Give it a minute or two on low-medium speed and then clean everything up throughly. You will notice that the seats and the ball are a lot smoother and should have a matt grey finish to them.

Then rebuild the joints as normal and you should find they will last longer before needing reshimming as you have already taken off any high spots.


Oh i see, thats what you call it lol well that's all been done.
Checked all the others, and there fine.
Just this one needs to be done again :)

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richminiturbo.

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On 17th Apr, 2008 Andy500 said:
Just the same as you lap valves in. Use valve grinding paste (i use the coarse compound) assemble the joint without shims, grease or the bottom spring and attatch the ball/shaft in the chuck of a drill. you dont need loads of paste just enough to take the high spots of the ball/seats. Give it a minute or two on low-medium speed and then clean everything up throughly. You will notice that the seats and the ball are a lot smoother and should have a matt grey finish to them.

Then rebuild the joints as normal and you should find they will last longer before needing reshimming as you have already taken off any high spots.


Never thought of that! Good tip! Will be doing that whenever i replace mine then:)

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