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Home > Show Us Yours! > Quick Cam Sensor

Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

This afternoon, I made a cam sensor.

Take an old 998 dizzy, strip and keep these bits:



Cut the casing down in the lathe. Make a top plate to carry the sensor and weld a bit of big end shell to the dizzy shaft:



Voila:

Edited by Paul S on 26th Jun, 2008.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Kean

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2406 Posts
Member #: 341
aka T2clubby

South Staffs

Excellent!


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

great!

although a tad more weld wouldnt go amiss on the big end shell,

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Rod S

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5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

And a big lump of weld opposite to balance it - but I'm a perfectionist....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

The shell is welded at the outside, so should be OK.

I was thinking about putting a nut and bolt through the hole in the plate to balance it.

This is a quick fix for now. I'm thinking of either making it much shorter so that it does not get in the way of my planned intercooler. Alternatively putting the sensor on the front timing cover and a vane plate on the cam sprocket.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Yes, my planned design with the optical switch is also to be as shallow as possible - either for intercooler or front rad.
Unfortunately my chosen intercooler hasn't arrived yet (eBay win last Sunday) so I haven't done anything physical yet for the phase (cam) sensor but dizzy drive does seem the most logic if you can make it shallow enough.

Putting it on the timing cover on the end of the cam sprocket surely means running the hall switch in oil ???

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


robert

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uranus

bloody well done paul

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Bat

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4559 Posts
Member #: 786
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Bermingum

Hi,
Just the job! :)
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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TurboDave16V
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SouthPark, Colorado

Nice and simple :) me likey!

I know it is a temporary thing, but the balance of that will be a mile off and you might find it'll self destruct. Perhaps another piece of phase lump but twice as thick and half as tall will be a start?

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
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Sir Yun

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510 Posts
Member #: 1592
Smart Guy!

mainland europe near ze germans

oh and something to get all the slop out of the jackshaft to minimize scatter (how accurate does a cam sensor need to be?)

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/


Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
I wouldn't have thought it needs to be extremely accurate, it's only to identify no1. I think the Rover ECU works on a 10 degree tolerance?
Cheers,
Gavin :)

VEMs Authorised Installer / Re-seller. K head kits now available!

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Paul S

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8604 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

It only needs to sync the VR sensor to the engine cycle, so no real accuracy at all.

I will set it at TDC and see what happens.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

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