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eaton_mini

238 Posts
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West Sussex - dreaming of forced induction!

Building up 1380 fast road jobbie (no forced induction on this one though) and was wondering who does the bestest crank!

I want it to be light with all the gizmos, but Im not stretching to a billet steel one............

MED seem to do the best priced one @360 for x-drilled, wedged, bladed, back drilled and nitrided or whatever it is.

Any advances on that?!?!?!?


Vegard

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Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

Don't blade it. Apart from that, go ahead!

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



eaton_mini

238 Posts
Member #: 1649
Senior Member

West Sussex - dreaming of forced induction!

What happens if you blade them then???


Vegard

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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

It countereffects the reason for wedging. You NEED material in the opposite end of the big end journals Main bearings die earlier.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



fastcarl

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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.




On 17th Jul, 2008 eaton_mini said:
Building up 1380 fast road jobbie (no forced induction on this one though) and was wondering who does the bestest crank!

I want it to be light with all the gizmos, but Im not stretching to a billet steel one............

MED seem to do the best priced one @360 for x-drilled, wedged, bladed, back drilled and nitrided or whatever it is.

Any advances on that?!?!?!?


how many miles before rebuilds do you envisage??>
my own personal view is the lighter the better,



carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


Vegard

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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway




On 17th Jul, 2008 fastcarl said:



On 17th Jul, 2008 eaton_mini said:
Building up 1380 fast road jobbie (no forced induction on this one though) and was wondering who does the bestest crank!

I want it to be light with all the gizmos, but Im not stretching to a billet steel one............

MED seem to do the best priced one @360 for x-drilled, wedged, bladed, back drilled and nitrided or whatever it is.

Any advances on that?!?!?!?


how many miles before rebuilds do you envisage??>
my own personal view is the lighter the better,




I know, but you run 6 miles per year *wink*
For main bearing life, the heavier crank the better. It's all a compromise. On a road engine, a std crank is more than enough.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



eaton_mini

238 Posts
Member #: 1649
Senior Member

West Sussex - dreaming of forced induction!

Its not going to do anymore than 3k a year, but its got to rev like buggary and if i can make it rev quicker then thats the route i want to take........

surely if its all balanced and harmonically damped its all good stuff???


Nic

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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

Herefordshire

im on a std crank


PaulH

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tbh your limit on revs wont be the crank it wil be the cylinder head and Cam If you go for the full monte crank be aware the engine life of a full blowen race engine can be as little as 20 hours that would be a little less than 3K miles most race A series rev to around 7500 rpm,
I run a 1380 N/A motor in my rig it is an every day mini it uses the SW5 cam and has a MED x-drilled, wedged, , back drilled and nitrided and balanced crank one of my own Cylinder heads with 36.5mm inlets and off set 32mm exhaust It makes 105HP at the flywheel and pulls like a train from 1500 RPM to 6000RPM
I build full race N/A engines which run 310 cams full works cranks very nice heads they are also 1380 the difference is they have no power below 2000 rpm
they rev to 8400RPM the make 130 hp +/- 5 and last about 22 hours.
Its all a balancing act,
Have fun, then Turbo it.
regards,
Paul.

EDIT: becaus im a donkey

Edited by PaulH on 17th Jul, 2008.

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

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joeybaby83

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Isle of Man

carl, what happened to that crank you drilled holes in? is it still alive?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



fastcarl

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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.




On 17th Jul, 2008 joeybaby83 said:
carl, what happened to that crank you drilled holes in? is it still alive?


yes i put it in a test car and drove around the M25 15 times in one go at 9700 on the rev limiter in 2nd gear.,

took it out and it was like brand new, not a mark on the bearings,.

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


Hedgemonkey

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Stu from Corwall aka Mr Jazz Piano, Love_Machine, kneegrow

I wondered about vizards old comment about getting one cut with bigger mains so that it was stiffer and line boring the whole block. There are cheapish cranks being cut in china and EN40 is EN40 and as long as it's accurate.......eh?

I wondered about how feasible I could do my own crank. I don't have access to a milling machine but I think you could achieve very good results with an angle/die grinder, some very careful measurements, weighing, some prussian blue and a pattern. When I get the shed up and running, I'm going to have a go. Get the thing finally balanced professionally........

I was chatting to a guy who made minisprints in the 60's and he said about how they lightened everything to a ridiculous degree. Including cutting bits off pistons/etc....

I know the approach is precision engineering is the way to go. The thing is that the old boys had some good ideas

Bugger off, I'm getting there.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

trouble is some of the "old boys" are full of shit.

take my old man for example, his tall tales just keep getting taller.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



fastcarl

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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.




On 17th Jul, 2008 mini13 said:
trouble is some of the "old boys" are full of shit.

take my old man for example, his tall tales just keep getting taller.


lol,
its my 18th birthday next.

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


Rob H

4314 Posts
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Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

On 17th Jul, 2008 Hedgemonkey said:
I wondered about how feasible I could do my own crank. I don't have access to a milling machine but I think you could achieve very good results with an angle/die grinder, some very careful measurements, weighing, some prussian blue and a pattern. When I get the shed up and running, I'm going to have a go. Get the thing finally balanced professionally........


Have a word with Robert, I think he used a similar technique to make the crank for his hybrid engine.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


eaton_mini

238 Posts
Member #: 1649
Senior Member

West Sussex - dreaming of forced induction!

Paul H, Im not going to be gunning the nuts off it all the time so i would hope it would last more than 20 hours!

I did forget to mention that I have a 7 port head for it as well, 37.7x31 in the valve department and 40DHLAs as the fuelling. Hoping for about 120-130 at the fly, but Im more interested in the amount of torque I can get.

I did see someone had turbo'd one of these on here............seriously tempted I have to say!!!!


Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
There's a turbo'd 7 port and a turbo'd 1380, but not on the same engine.
If you want torque, turbo is the way to go!
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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theoneeyedlizard

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The Boom Boom speaker Police!

Essex

Joe (mini13)'s 7 port turbo is 1380cc.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

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