Clutch problems
Turbo Mini Forums

Hiya fellas,
Just finished putting my (Pre-Verto) clutch together after replacing the primary gear oilseal.Put a new slave on there as the old one was totally fucked.
Wanted to see how far out the setting is.
So I got my sister to press the clutch pedal while I turned a wheel (car is jacked up) and thru the starter hole I can hear the Clutch plate rubbing on the flywheel and pressure plate.

I can't adjust the big nut on the bottom end of the arm cos I haven't got the right size spanner and I can't heat it cos the pressure switch for the brakes is right under it.

Is the only alternative to weld an extension onto the arm where it goes into the slave cylinder or is there another wya?
And if I do manage to undo the big nutand locknut how do I adjust it?Couldn't make heads or tails of the Haynes method.



Thanks

Tom



P.S. I did search but couldn't find anything relevant

Warning:Stig in Training

i havent even got the big nut and locknut, they fell off years ago and the clutch works just fine without them

The big nuts only adjust the maximum throw (how much it can release by) and only really need adjusting if the gap between them and the WOK disappears when the pedal is down, and especially if you can't push the pedal all the way down.
The first (and most important) adjustment is the small long bolt at the top of the arm which sets the "bite" point and release bearing clearance. Get that right first - about 20 thou with the return spring removed.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

i also dont have the return spring (so dont need the little bolt) as i couldnt get the clutch to work with it fitted, ok, so the bearing and diaphram only seem to last 4 or 5 years but i can live with that

Are you using an ultralight fly? I had trouble with the 3 different ones ive fitted to various engines, where the pedal was biting right on the floor or no clutch at all, i had to weld an extension in the arm that goes into the slave as you suggested, this sorted it. A good way to see if it will sort the problem before welding, is to put some washers under the ubber on the slave piston, to pack it out, then reassemble and try the clutch. Will be good way to see how long and extension is needed too.#

And to adjust the nut, first slacken it out, then get someone to pump the clutch a couple of times, hold it down, then spin the nut up to the clutch cover boss, then in afurther flat, and tighten the locknut, thats how i do mine anyway

Edited by retroracer1380 on 20th Jul, 2008.

Edited by Vegard on 20th Jul, 2008.

There are pics V
Have a looksee in Sister Pics.

Thanks for all the help guys.I'll give it a go this pm or tomorrow

Warning:Stig in Training

I know, but you need to add more when you ask questions..

or you could try saying " i'll email a photo of my sister to the person who can answer this question....."

LOL@Shed

I don't do bribery mate

Warning:Stig in Training

Well had an interesting evening in the garage.
Discovered it's more complicated than I thought.

Firstly the arm seems really slow on the return when I slip the pedal.It will take at least a second to hit the stop bolt thingy.This is with the return spring on by the way.

Secondly I welded on an extension to the pushrod which was about 7.5mm long.Tried it again and got no movement of the pressure plate whatsoever!!!! Can't understand that one!
Removed the extension and movement returned.

Now I'm really more confused than ever.All I did was replace the slave cylinder.Everything is as it was before.
Will adjusting the release bearing help or will it just add another variable?
What about the arm stop bolt? How far out should that be wound?

Thanks a lot guys.

Getting close to an MOT now

Warning:Stig in Training

are you certain its FULLY bled out?

Well I bleed it last night but had to remove the bleeder due to the tag shifting when removing the spring.
I'll do it again tomorrow.

BTW whats with everyone dumping their forum names and just going for proper names?
Wheres the fun in that??

Warning:Stig in Training

Still no joy.
Adjusted the release bearing as stated in the Haynes,adjusted the stop bolt and welded an old brake union onto the arm.
Now th pressure plate is not moving at all.

Have no idea what too do next.
Was told by a mate who's an experienced mechanic that the problem is the release bearing and that I should back it up a couple of threads so it doesn't contact the wok.Any truth in this?

Warning:Stig in Training

If the arm is slow to return, your hose is goosed (internal balooning restricts the flow). This is a simple and cheap fix.

I post this a lot, but I still don't know of a better guide.

http://www.manchesterminis.co.uk/index.php...sosinfo&sosid=9

I suspect the internal balooning of the flexi hose is limiting the volume of fluid that can flow through it - hence the lack of movement.

Hi,
Can you dis-engage the clutch by moving the arm manually with a bar or something?
This would prove the clutch, but I'd go with Dave's suggestion
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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My Mini build diary

Daves suggestion is a good 1 maybe also check that the clutch arm hasnt broken off or bent at the bottom end.

"So wat we gonna do tonight Brain?"
"Same thing we do evernight Pinky!"
"Try to take over the world!"

I saw the slow return myself on a mini over here less than a year ago. It took me ages to convince the owner that was the problem after he'd changed the master and the slave (on his own doing)- in the end i gave him a used hose and told him to try it as he didn't believe me that it was the hose enought to buy a new one.

Surprise surprise - it worked.


Never got my hose back :(

Thanks lads but this is all relative innit,since the pressure plate is not moving at all,due to my messing with stop bolts and pushrod length.
I'll get me a new hose tomorrow and see from there.

Warning:Stig in Training

if that has made it worse then put it back to what it was before.

fit the new hose and see where that gets you. if that is no better then make sure that everything is back the correct way around. The friction plate especially.( although i have not done a pre-verto clutch i know this can make a BIG difference on mostr other vehicles.

By friction plate I take it you mean the clutch plate James?
Well on the pre verto it will only go in one way.And I double checked it with the Haynes diagrams to be absolutely sure.
And anyway when I first put it in it worked just wouldn't disengage properly.

Warning:Stig in Training

cool, thats what i meant. good to be able to check things off the list of possibilities.

Still can't make heads or tails of this.
Changed the flexible pipe as advised and clutch now springs back immediately (just the thing for emergency starts)
Bled the thing-nothing.
Cut the bit I'd welded onto the pushrod off and re adjusted the throwout stop-nothing.
Loosened the release bearing a tad-nothing.

Have no idea what to do next,other than set the goddamn thing on fire.

Warning:Stig in Training

When you say nothing what do you mean?

When you built the flywheel/ clutch did you set it so the diaphragm spring lays flat and that the drive straps were un stressed?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi