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Markie_D

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After a rebuild on the carb
Got it back on once again today.

Started ok, but run crap. spent ages messing with the mixture and idle, but just couldn't it right at all. I was using SU carb oil from. so thought i'd try 2 in 1 oil, to see if it would make it any better. so i empty the SU oil, then used the 2 in 1. ran 10 times better for some reason ? But after i rev the engine, the exhaust goes pop pop pop, then does some kind of release of air from the carb alot of the times when i put my foot down. Tried that colour tune, but dont seem to change colour to me lol The ign timings seems ok etc.
Anyone got any ideas ?
I know most will say rolling road, which i'll get round to sometime.
But just want to get her running ok ish for monday morning.

Cheers. :)

P.s, i did notice that the needle is different to my old one.
It's chrome plastic looking, as the old one is just a normal plastic.
Not sure if there is a differents ?

Edited by Markie_D on 31st Aug, 2008.

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Markie_D

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When i rev the car, to say 2,000rpm.
It kind of stays there for a good 3 seconds, then drops back down to idle. but when on idle, it kind of revs up and down on it's own, from 900rpm to say 1500 rpm. addjusting the idle screw just makes it to hight, or to low in which it will cut out. can't work it out to why :(
Anyone got any ideas please.

Cheers.

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Bat

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Hi,
Sounds like you've got an air leak to me. Check all gaskets and pipes.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Markie_D

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On 31st Aug, 2008 Bat said:
Hi,
Sounds like you've got an air leak to me. Check all gaskets and pipes.
Cheers,
Gavin :)


Is there away of checking also by using a gauge ?
I did have to remover the inlet manifold, could this course this kind of problem by not being flush proper to the cylinder head.

Cheers Bat.

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Rod S

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On 31st Aug, 2008 Markie_D said:
I did have to remover the inlet manifold, could this course this kind of problem by not being flush proper to the cylinder head.


Yes, did you take the ehaust off too and use a new gasket as it's combined for both.

If not, the gasket would have already been compressed where the inlet sits.

Also, is it the Turbo inlet manifold or the NA MG one ??? (they are different thicknesses where they get clamped)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Markie_D

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On 31st Aug, 2008 Rod S said:

On 31st Aug, 2008 Markie_D said:
I did have to remover the inlet manifold, could this course this kind of problem by not being flush proper to the cylinder head.


Yes, did you take the ehaust off too and use a new gasket as it's combined for both.

If not, the gasket would have already been compressed where the inlet sits.

Also, is it the Turbo inlet manifold or the NA MG one ??? (they are different thicknesses where they get clamped)


Only took the inlet manifold off while it was still attached to the carb (quite a few times now). as i find this easyer to do when i need to take the carb off the engine.
It's the same gasket from 400 miles ago. is it recomended to change the gasket after it's been taken off, but only done 400miles ?
If i had to fit a new gasket!!, would i have to take the clamp off the downpipe, so i can move the oultet manifold and turbo back
(which is attached to it of course) so i can fit the new gasket. ?
any tips on this please. as now bat as said it might be an air leak, this is the only place i could think off we're the leak could be :( bugger..

P.s, it's a Turbo inlet manifold

Cheers

Edited by Markie_D on 31st Aug, 2008.

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James_H

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Did everything go back ok when rebuilding the carb? is there any possabilites that something is amiss there? Float chamber etc etc piston wasnt sticking?


Bat

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Hi,
You should replace the gasket whenever it'd disturbed, mileage has nothing to do with it. If you've had the manifold off several times, I'm surprised it's lasted this long! *surprised*
EDIT: You can use a vacuum gauge to check, you should have 20in Hg at idle, measured at the manifold. Assuming everything else is right with the engine.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

Edited by Bat on 31st Aug, 2008.

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Rod S

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As above....

There is one other "old skool" trick to test for air leaks but in these days of Health and Safety I probably shouldn't even say it....

Take something inflammable in an aerosol like WD40 (or other brand of release oil) and spray a LITTLE bit around the air side joints on carb and manifold with the engine idling.

Do NOT do this if the exhaust manifold is seriously hot.

Three outcomes,

1 - no change, you haven't hit an air leak.

2 - revs rise slightly when you spray near the leaking air joint.

3 - you set fire to your engine bay.....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Markie_D

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On 31st Aug, 2008 Bat said:
Hi,
You should replace the gasket whenever it'd disturbed, mileage has nothing to do with it. If you've had the manifold off several times, I'm surprised it's lasted this long! *surprised*
EDIT: You can use a vacuum gauge to check, you should have 20in Hg at idle, measured at the manifold. Assuming everything else is right with the engine.
Cheers,
Gavin :)


Right, i've just done a test using my gunson L-o gauge.
and when it started, it went stright to 20, then after about 2 seconds it was going from 6, then 10, then at time 15. up and down.
So from what you say, thats an air leak.
I take it that will be from the inlet manifold ? as the carb gaskets are all new and nicely tightend.

Cheers :)

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Markie_D

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So to fit a new Gasket.
would i have to take the clamp off the downpipe, so i can move the oultet manifold and turbo back ?
Cheers.

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Markie_D

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What the hell is going on with my car.
One thing after another Grrrrrr
Now it wont start again.
So took it off again zzzzzzzz and there is fuel in the plenium one again.
Whats going on ? anyone.

Cheers :(

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Markie_D

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Sorry to keep reposting. i've just checked the fuel pressure again, which was ok yesterday with the new regulator. and it's gone up to 6 psi.

Cheers :(

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Bat

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Hi,
Don't worry, more info helps and it's all in one place :)
Sort fuel pressure first. Usual trick is to run a separate return pipe, to check it. Try readjusting it first incase it's the newness *wink*
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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matty

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Sounds like your return is blocked? Did you test the return line like I suggested before?

What fuel pump are you using?

Edited by matty on 31st Aug, 2008.

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Markie_D

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Well, at first i changed the fuel regulator for a new one just yesterday.
which sorted this same problem right away.
but of course i had air leak, but no problem starting all the times i've started it today and yesterday.
so all i did was undo the plenium and loosen the inlet manifold bolts to try and square the inlet up better for now, till i got new gasket. I put it all back again, but it would not start. so like i said, i checked the fuel pressure, which was well to high again lol and tryed to adjust it by taking the screw right out, then few turns back etc. but still stayed at hight fuel pressure on the gauge.
I blew into the return again, which took and few good blows, till i could hear that bubbling. then checked the pressure again, but still no joy. i did all that yesterday, but the new regulator sorted it like i said. i havn't tested the return as i dont have any spare hose yet, and didn't bother doing that yesterday, as the new regulator sorted the problem. the problem only happend again once i took the carb off. surley something couldn't be messing the regulator up ?

I'm lost lol

And sad Boo Hoo lol
Fix one problem, then the old one comes back.
lol
Thanks for all your help :)
Missus says, oh it's only a bloody car lol
They just dont understand lol

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Bat

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Hi,
I think you may be suffering fuel pressure problems because the return is below the level of the fuel. I think it is from what you're saying about bubbling?
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Turbo Phil

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Agree with Bat, where is your return positioned on the tank ?

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Markie_D

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The return is on the top of the tank, 8mm hose. but then connects to a copper pipe all the way to the engine bay, then a hose from there to the return on the regulator.
It's been set up this way for years with no problems till now ?

Shall i get some 8mm hose, and run it from the regulator to the top of the tank ?

Edited by Markie_D on 31st Aug, 2008.

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James_H

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a blocked breather in the tank? if the return is at the top of the tank the fuel shouldnt be bubbling surely? or is it just me being too simle today?


Bat

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Hi,
Ok. Just trying to rule things out.
Can you just stick a pipe on the return out of the reg into a container and try setting the pressure?
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Turbo Phil

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Or even a length of hose down the outside of the car & into the neck of the tank.

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Rod S

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Yes,

This doesn't make sense, if the return is to the TOP of the tank there should be no "bubbling" (as per yesterday's posts).

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


matty

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Yep definitely shouldn't bubble, the new regulator may of worked temporarily but over time the diaphragm will weaken and eventually split. *oh well*

Take the return off the tank, blow through it from the FPR end to check its clear, then reconnect the FPR end up and put the end that was on the tank into a petrol can in the boot and try it again. *wink*

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Markie_D

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Thanks for all your help lads :)
Will try what you all have said tomorrow.
But if it's still the same, high pressure that is.
Then the regulators fcked once again lol
Then i'll have to get a new one. £40 errr it didn't work when i installed it *happy*
lol

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