Uprated Actuator
Turbo Mini Forums

Got an Avonbar uprated actuator from the box of bits that came with the engine when I bought it.

But im not sure what grade spring is in it i.e what boost it will go to before bleeding!!

It says "10" on it in pen which is a give away and I guess it will be hard to tell what spec it is in just a picture but I thought id ask.





Can someone clarify, I want to run a minimal amount of boost while running the engine in, so if I wind this actuator down to its lowest setting how low will the boost be? I'll have the bleed valve in line but it will be completely close during run in.

Ta!

why not run the standard actuator while running it in?

actually i just thought about that and it would be a PITA to change!!!

looks like the 10psi one i have from Avonbar. What do you mean by wind down the actuator, there is nothing to wind down, it depends on the preload on the wastegate.

133.5 bhp 123 lb torque 116mph @6640rpm 9.5psi
Shakespear RWYB 14.995 91.83mph

why not use your bleed valve and a boost gauge and set your car to the desired boost for the "run in" period?

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

Because if I used a bleed valve the pressure would go up which I dont want it to?

i thought you could adjust it up or down?

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

Searching is all you need on TurboMinis

taken from Avonbar

When fitting a modified Actuator the pre-load on the internal spring is necessary to achieve the correct boost. So, ensure the wastegate is closed (wategate pin hold closed in direction of actuator) then adjust the rod so the the center of the eye is approx 2mm shorter than the centre of the wastegate pin, then using a long bladed srewdriver or simular hook the eye of the rod over the wastegate pin. Incorrect preload will give too much or to little boost. 2mm is a good place to start as it should give 6-8psi of boost. Road Test to get your required boost

133.5 bhp 123 lb torque 116mph @6640rpm 9.5psi
Shakespear RWYB 14.995 91.83mph

Assuming the turbo is out of the car on the work bench. Fit the actuator to the turbo with no preload, then connect up & foot pump and decent boost gauge to the actuator then slowly increase the simulated boost until the waste gate opens, read how much "boost" the gauge is showing. Vola.

yeah, you use the actuator to set the minimum boost level, then you can use the bleed valve for increasing it above that

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

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this is the same one as i have

originally I had 7 psi through it, i think this was with 6ish mm of preload and could then bleed it up to 16psi

But now with more preload 12psi is the minimum i can get

Preload makes all the difference. If you want to see what the actuator is rated at, hook it up to a bike pump with a gauge on it, that's what I did...

Hmm tried the bike pump method but the fixing didnt fit over the take off on the actuator!!

Any other way of seeing what its set to while its on the bench?

I've put it on at 6mm preload now, will take it easy at run in and just bleed up when its ready.

Hi,
Yes, less pre load will give you a lower boost pressure before the wastegate opens.
The problem may come later on if you want to wind the boost up there won't be enough pre load to keep the wastegate shut against the pressue of the exhaust gasses.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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What would that create, boost creep?

To be honest i'm tempted to put it at a higher preload on it now while its off, say set it at what the actuator is "rated" at, 10psi?

As long as I dont hit full boost efore the car is bedded in/set up it should be ok?

Roughly what mm of preload should I put on it to get 10psi ish, or another way to test it?

Anyone know offhand what a T31 is rated at - or does it depend where it came from ?.

You can change the preload when it's on the car. That's what I did.

And it's worse than boost creep, the gate forces open and your boost tails off. That used to happen on my old actuator, really irratating!

Ric how hard was it to adjust the preload in situ?

I can imagine it being a right ball ache, was a bit tricky getting it on the wastegate arm when it was on the bench!!

Edited by richminiturbo. on 9th Oct, 2008.

i've changed the actuator easily enough in situ with a 1/4"drive socket set.

changing the pre-load is easy when the turbo's cold

try doing it on the rollers when the clock is ticking...

Haha good point!!

Well tbh I dont think it would hurt if I set the preload for 10psi staright away, take it easy on run in, then take it to get setup proplerly.

Providing I get the fueling roughly right and the ignition will be on megajolt I shouldnt think there would be any major probs running it like this till its tuned?

Would you say about 8mm preload is 10psi?

to be honest, i normally only do about half a hole width.

If i was you though i would only give it 1 or 2mm while you run it in.

The temptation to nail it will be unreal...

I ran mine in on the rollers though at 14psi! As long as its carfefully watched i cant see a problem with doing it that way as the lower load sites get mapped first anyway.