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roguesaga

80 Posts
Member #: 4178
Advanced Member

Chesterfield

Hello folks, I guess that at my age I should not be building turbo a mini, but hey, it's better than sitting at home with the missus.

Can any one give me some info on the correct operation of the dump valve? Am I right in thinking that the valve should remain closed until the pressure has built up then it dumps,
The problem i'm having is the Bailey valve that i inherited stays open and will only close at about 3500 then at 5000 it'll open again. Is this right? as it seems to rev very high to me before it closes and then a very short increase in revs before it reopens.

My boost gauge is in bar and reads it's boosting at just below 2 bar

I would really appreciate any advice as i'm a complete novice where turbo's are concerned.

Many thanks

I am nobody, nobody's perfect. Therefore I am perfect


kerwin12

64 Posts
Member #: 2244
Advanced Member

mulbarton, norwich nr14 8gs

2 bar??? what sort of spec is your engine?


roguesaga

80 Posts
Member #: 4178
Advanced Member

Chesterfield

I bought the car complete and i was told it is a standard metty turbo it runs well apart from a problem ticking over but his may be due to it has 6mm fuel lines as opposed to 8mm. I am trying to find a boost gauge that reads in psi as bar means shit to me

I am nobody, nobody's perfect. Therefore I am perfect


Paul R

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4018 Posts
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Back to Fucking Tool status

Swindon

2 bar on a standard metro turbo engine... are you a wizzard!

Drives
-Ford S-max Mk2 Ecoboost
-Rover 100 VVC #2 - track project

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Bat

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4559 Posts
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Bermingum

Hi,
Welcome to TM :)
2bar is 29psi! *surprised*
Standard engines should run no more than 7psi...
Edit: The piston dump valves need to have the small (vacuum) pipe pointing towards the floor to work properly, for some reason.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

Edited by Bat on 26th Oct, 2008.

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roguesaga

80 Posts
Member #: 4178
Advanced Member

Chesterfield

look i asked a question to see if the dump valve was working right, i guess i should have gone somewhere where someone could offer advice instead of ridicule, i have no idea as to the set up as i bought it complete, so before i ran it proper i thought i'd get some advice from the people in the know. I'm not on here for confrontation and i'm not on here to boast about mines got more boost than yours. i just wanted a question answered that's all, if someone can do this i would be grateful, i take on board that the 2 bar thing is inaccurate and as soon as i can get a new gauge that reads in psi i will do. but firstly I need to know if the dump valve i've got is working as it should in regard to the rpm.
Thanks

I am nobody, nobody's perfect. Therefore I am perfect


roguesaga

80 Posts
Member #: 4178
Advanced Member

Chesterfield

Thanks bat, The vacuum pipe from the valve is connected to the inlet where the servo connects, is this right?

I am nobody, nobody's perfect. Therefore I am perfect


roguesaga

80 Posts
Member #: 4178
Advanced Member

Chesterfield

Sorry for my intolerance and i have now looked a little more closely and the boost gauge infact reads it's boosting at .2 bar.

Egg firmley on mi face

I am nobody, nobody's perfect. Therefore I am perfect


James_H

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3692 Posts
Member #: 1833
Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

your dumop valve should remain closed untill your butterfly closes and your manifold see's vacuum. the vacum then opens yours dump valve to release the boost pressure that otherwise would be hitting the butterfly and not be able to go anywhere which causes your compressor(intake side of the turbo) to stall which increases lag on gear changes and also increases wear on the turbo.

hope that makes sense.

however your actuator will open and close to regulate boost pressure. make sure you havent got these confused.

James.


Mr Joshua

2496 Posts
Member #: 1954
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Luton Bedfordshire




On 26th Oct, 2008 roguesaga said:
The problem i'm having is the Bailey valve that i inherited stays open and will only close at about 3500 then at 5000 it'll open again. Many thanks
That sounds a little odd to me your dump valve should remain closed until you take your foot off of the accelerator. The differential pressure caused by the vacume created in the inlet manifold overcomes the spring pressure holding the piston or diaphram down lifts it off of its seat thus allowing the excess boost pressure to be vented. When you apply more throttle you loose the vacume due to the butterfly opening and the spring pressure closes the dump valve.

As far as I am aware dumpvalve opening and closing is not RPM controled. What you seem to be describing is the operation of the waste gate control solenoid valve.

Does it act like this in all gears? as your boost will increase at different rates due to the amount of gas produced depending on engine loading.

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MikeRace

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Force Racing ICT Dept Manager Miglia Turbo Am frum Yokshyer tha noes!

2 Bar! Are you sure you havent got the Boost Gauge plumbed between the Turbo and the Actuator?

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


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andygardner

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249 Posts
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Sheffield

If the engine isn't under load the turbo won't be producing any boost so you'll see a vacuum in the inlet manifold, this will open the dump valve.

I've observed this happening with mine, can't see it being ideal as you're going to be taking in unfiltered air? I was going to try putting a restriction in the vacuum side of the DV when I get round to it, not sure if that will work though.


Mr Joshua

2496 Posts
Member #: 1954
Post Whore

Luton Bedfordshire




On 26th Oct, 2008 roguesaga said:
Sorry for my intolerance and i have now looked a little more closely and the boost gauge infact reads it's boosting at .2 bar.

Egg firmley on mi face
Your running just under 3psi of boost which is nothing to be honest. A little looking has suggested you should have fitted a DV24 or DV34 either way there is no suggestion that it should be acting the way it is. Post up a detailed description of how it is fitted and where the small vacume pipe is plumed into.

One last question has the original dump valve been removed and plugged.

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Mr Joshua

2496 Posts
Member #: 1954
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Luton Bedfordshire


On 27th Oct, 2008 andygardner said:
If the engine isn't under load the turbo won't be producing any boost so you'll see a vacuum in the inlet manifold, this will open the dump valve.

I've observed this happening with mine, can't see it being ideal as you're going to be taking in unfiltered air? I was going to try putting a restriction in the vacuum side of the DV when I get round to it, not sure if that will work though.
Got my dump valve from Mini speed and that had a restriction in the vacume pipe which totaly messed up the operation of the dump valve! ended up drilling it out with an eighth drill. I have noticed mine doing the same since but its a minute movement and you will miss it if you blink. But you make a valid point about the unfiltered air, how about fitting a foam band around the vent holes, a sort of improvised foam filter? *Idea*

Edited by Mr Joshua on 27th Oct, 2008.

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wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York


On 27th Oct, 2008 MikeRace said:
2 Bar! Are you sure you havent got the Boost Gauge plumbed between the Turbo and the Actuator?


Keep up mike!

Firstly all dump valves will be open at tickover, and yes this means sucking in unfiltered air.

Then as you get boost it will close. Generally this will be at a lower RPM than 3k. However, to be looking at the valve, you must have the bonnet open and not be moving. If so, you will be making very little boost and I wouldn't expect the valve to close much below 3k.

It does seem wierd that it opens again at 5k. Again though, is this a stationary test? What happens at 5k when you drive it? does it dump and you lose all boost?

Finally, your boost is lower than standard, so worth investigating. it should run around 0.5bar max.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph



On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Mr Joshua

2496 Posts
Member #: 1954
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Luton Bedfordshire

Edit:- sorry Andy just realised I repeated exactly what you said.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 28th Oct, 2008.

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Bat

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4559 Posts
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Bermingum

Hi,
Your correct with the orientation of the dump valve. The servo pipe isn't the best place for it to be connected as there's a one way valve in the system. A carb spacer with a vacuum take off or drill and tap the inlet would be the best way.
The dump valve may well do strange things with no load on the engine, give it a run up the road to try it out *wink*
Cheers
Gavin :)

Edited by Bat on 27th Oct, 2008.

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Jay#2

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2500 Posts
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Northern Ireland (ex AUS)


On 27th Oct, 2008 Mr Joshua said:

But you make a valid point about the unfiltered air, how about fitting a foam band around the vent holes, a sort of improvised foam filter? *Idea*


Like this:

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.a...roduct=FMDVF003

On 7th Nov, 2008 Nic said:
naeJ
m
!!!!!!sdrawkcab si gnihtyreve ?droabyekym ot deneppah sah tahw ayhwdd


Mr Joshua

2496 Posts
Member #: 1954
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Luton Bedfordshire

damn the brain leaches are out to get me arghhhh! *Shooting*

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joeybaby83

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6274 Posts
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Isle of Man

mate, no ones trying to get your back up, no need to be so thin skinned

post some pics of your motor up, whats your plans with it?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



Mr Joshua

2496 Posts
Member #: 1954
Post Whore

Luton Bedfordshire




On 26th Oct, 2008 roguesaga said:
Sorry for my intolerance and i have now looked a little more closely and the boost gauge infact reads it's boosting at .2 bar.

Egg firmley on mi face
Eer he did recant his minor rant and he kinda had a point.

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