Andy's build thread - 1275GTS
Turbo Mini Forums

I'm having issues with 2nd gear again. Think I'm going to have to fit the minispares competition bulk rings as the box just keeps wearing standard rings out. I wonder if they have changed the coating or something on the gear.

Edited by minimole23 on 22nd Feb, 2015.

Are you using new rings or good used ones?

killed one NOS set, which I put down to poor manufacture. Now wearing 2nd out again which were known used.

My only other thought is worn selector hubs causing the syncro hub to be tipped into the gear rather than slid over, but then it was fine on ther previous standard gearbox.

I used a set of minispares competition baulk rings and they lasted 5 minutes. Been fine using the genuine rover ones since.

My build thread: http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=454802

Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/85313398@N02/

Mine are genuine rover baulk rings from the mid 90s. Engine is now of the box, so should know the cause later in the week.

You need to physically inspect the parts to see if anything is amiss. Obvious one is the ring having no gap between itself and the flange face. But if that is more than .6mm, it should still work just fine, albeit well worn. Are your synchro springs applying the correct pre-load to block the syncro and allow it to work? Are the synchro blocks on the ring and the hub as they should be (need to compare to known good ones to be sure).
And, as you point out, there could be something amiss with the fork itself. Last time I helped Jimbo rebuild his gearbox, I failed to notice the shift fork was bent, which was causing engagement issues. That said, a bent or worn fork is more likely to not cause synchronising, but engagement issues, as the synchronising has to happen first (obviously). If it is popping out of gear, more likely a fork / sliding sleeve / gear (clutch teeth) issue...

Got the box stripped down and hopefully found the cause of the crunchyness.



It had plenty of space between the ring face and the top of the cone, but wouldn't grip. So stuck a brand new ring in it and put it back together. As a belt and braces measure, I've put new balls and springs in the synchro hub. Reading TDs advice, it seemed daft not to for the cost of them whilst it was in bits.




All gears engage nicely on the bench, so hopefully it's sorted. Aim to have it back in and running next weekend.

Also splashed out on a large bore LCB to replace the shonky S.C. effort.

Edited by apbellamy on 8th Mar, 2015.

whats with the rust spots?

also appears to be some tooling marks on those teeth as well?

Whats wrong with sc lcb?
Sorry just read previous page

Edited by D4VE on 8th Mar, 2015.

The gear set is used, unfortunately has picked up some rust in storage. Budget dictates it stays until it eats itself.

Andy, looking good! I haven't forgotton about the switches will sort them out today!

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Ta. No worries

What was the ball and spring advice?

Essentially, make sure they are not fooked. Paragraph further up.

that wide band looks like itll be taken off by the first speed bump you see

i think the sensor is supost to be slightly up hill if im correct?

Yep, but look how the downpipes end at different heights forcing the Y-piece and bung to rotate downwards - pretty sloppy QC. The crack in the 1st pic is pretty bad though. There are several problems there - it's almost like it was designed to fail.

Edited by PhilR on 9th Mar, 2015.

I thought that the O2 sensor had to be above the centreline of the pipe to avoid cold start condensation getting to it, which apparently can kill it ?

I was thinking the same thing

What Dave says, you still have shit on your input shaft too

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

All reasons why that LCB is not going back on. It's not shit brett, it's helical

Got the engine back together and in the hole a few weeks ago. The gears select nice and smoothely which they didn't do the first time it went in.

Managed to get a bit of time in the garage today, so stuck some stuff back on the engine.



Thought I'd give it a quick turn over, see if I'd ruined it.



Even got it running briefly.

Hopefully have it back together and the Water Injection sorted soon. Aiming to be back on the road in early May, then I can work through some of the niggly little bits and bobs. You never know, it might even end up at a show...

Edited by apbellamy on 11th Apr, 2015.

Yeh!

Nice... your nice shiny engine bay looks great. Jealous!!!

Hut of interest how old was that baulk ring, and where was it sourced from?

Edited by minimole23 on 11th Apr, 2015.

The camera adds the shine to the engine bay. The whole car needs a good clean and polish... Rick...

The baulk ring came out of a box from a metro that me and John broke about 5 years ago. The car had been sat for at least 10 years. Believe they were new when the box was built.