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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > The best set up??

Tweaked

194 Posts
Member #: 2873
Advanced Member

Milton Keynes

I'm looking for the best set up from cv through the drive shaft and so on, and ending on the following side drive shaft.
The help will be appreciated

Edited by Tweaked on 13th Dec, 2008.


James_H

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3692 Posts
Member #: 1833
Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

CV joint - driveshaft - pot joint - diff - pot joint - driveshaft - cv joint


*Clapping*


Ben.

628 Posts
Member #: 1064
Formally Whyte_ben

Horndean, Hampshire

Damn, this is where ive been going wrong!



Build Thread Click Here


Tweaked

194 Posts
Member #: 2873
Advanced Member

Milton Keynes

hmmm, ok never mind


fastcarl

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6966 Posts
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Fastest A Series Mini in the World

leeds/wakefield.




On 13th Dec, 2008 Tweaked said:
hmmm, ok never mind


what do you meen exactly , strongest parts . most exotic, lightest .prettiest. ones thta will extract the most cash from your pocket,


carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE


Tweaked

194 Posts
Member #: 2873
Advanced Member

Milton Keynes

Well the strongest and close to the best


On 13th Dec, 2008 fastcarl said:



On 13th Dec, 2008 Tweaked said:
hmmm, ok never mind


what do you meen exactly , strongest parts . most exotic, lightest .prettiest. ones thta will extract the most cash from your pocket,


carl

Edited by Tweaked on 13th Dec, 2008.


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

theres a lot of options,

the outer cv joints themselves are pretty strong and don't really give trouble, in certain race classes they have been known to snap where the brive flange mounts, but theres not a lot that can be done about that.

there used to be drive shafts available tat fitted larger maxi/allegro cv's but the shafts are NLA.


the std drive shafts can occasionally snap at the cv joint where it is machined to take the locating ring. drive shafts that do not have this ring are available in stonger material.

the inner cv or pot joint is pretty inistructable, some people prefer the hardy spicer joint, but it makes little difference.

the diff is the weak link, this will need uptating to a cros pin diff or an lsd if you are feeling flush.


to sumarise, change the diff, and if you ever manage to break a drive shaft then think about getting the higher grade ones.

on top of that, you can get some beutiful titanium shafts from fast carl that will weigh naff, or there are formula 1 spec drive shaft assemblys available but they are about 1200 quid iirc

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Tweaked

194 Posts
Member #: 2873
Advanced Member

Milton Keynes

cheers mini13 that was the info i was looking for really appreciate that


James_H

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3692 Posts
Member #: 1833
Formally mini_majic

Auckland, New Zealand

didnt mean to sound an arse mate, just my strange sense of humor!


Tweaked

194 Posts
Member #: 2873
Advanced Member

Milton Keynes

its ok mate :)


On 13th Dec, 2008 James_H said:
didnt mean to sound an arse mate, just my strange sense of humor!


paul wiginton
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5933 Posts
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9 times Avon Park Class C winner

Milton Keynes

Dont worry about uprating driveshafts, they rarely break plus its better to break a shaft rather than an expensive diff.

Paul

I seriously doubt it!


Tom Fenton
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15302 Posts
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

Force racing titanium drive flanges, force racing lightened cv joints, force racing titanium driveshafts.................etc


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂

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