Clutch Problems
Turbo Mini Forums

Right, after putting together an NA 998 to get on the road again I have run into some difficulty.

All equipment is standard verto.

Clutch down, I try to go into any gear with the engine running but can't (I can get into first by holding the lever gently against first). When I have the car in gear and clutch down the car will roll forward (i.e. clutch not disengaged)

The engine, clutch and gearbox was in the car last year and in working order.

I pulled the clutch off this afternoon to make sure I assembled it correctly. All seems in order.
1. no damage to friction surfaces.
2. clutch disc on the right way round (can't go on the wrong way).
3. pressure plate bolts tightened in sequence.
4. release bearing is OK.
5. I am getting too travel from the slave.
6. flywheel is sitting on the crank OK.
7. Hat thingy is on over the pressure plate.
8. Primary gear moves freely.
9. Friction plate moves freely on primary gear splines
10. Platic washer thingy is on infront of clutch oil seal and pointing the right way.

What have I done wrong?

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse

Hi,
Sounds hydraulic to me...
As long as it's not fitted to a metro!
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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I'm not sure it is hydraulic Gavin. We have tried levering the clutch arm with a bar once the pedal is depressed. It doesn't move. It also looks like the shaft is travelling the full throw until the big nut hits the wok

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse

Hi,
Try backing the big nut off a bit
Cheers,
Gavin :)

VEMs Authorised Installer / Re-seller. K head kits now available!

WB/EGT gauges. Click here for customers write-up

Visit www.doyouneedabrain.co.uk

My Mini build diary

We did initally have the big nut all the way off and had these symptoms.

Thrust washers are new and installed correctly.

I might just get a hold of another clutch setup and try it. I'm being thrown by the fact that all the equipment worked previously

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse

I might just get a hold of another clutch setup and try it. I'm being thrown by the fact that all the equipment.

???? ........... check it out you will find the problem staring you in the face
if it all worked OK Before ?

Check the Clevis pins (all 3 of em) and the end of the clutch arm. If it's got a flat it'll need replacing or building up with weld and then reshaping.

check the ball and socket at the end of the clutch arm for wear ; is it the same cover that was on it before?

Your not using a pre verto clutch arm are you??

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


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Nope :(

Hmm. I had similair problems when i had put a master cylinder in that had too bigger bore (im using remote resevoir type)

Try changing the master cylinder and slave.

Try to think what has altered since the last time it worked. Also how the clutch feel?? Soft?

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Two questions

1- Is it the correct release bearing (the Verto one is different)

2 - Is the plunger itself the right way up. The hole that goes through the plunger (that the ball end of the arm locates in) is chamfered at one end only, this must be at the top. This chamfer allows the arm to swing. Usually you can't actually get the arm in if the plunger hole is upside down but sometimes with a worn arm you can but it will have next to no travel.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Thanks everyone for the help so far. The release bearing is the one that came out of the car so it worked previously. The clutch arm wasn't removed from the wok so it is on the right way. All the eqiupment was used previously.

I will check the clevis pins and clutch arm for wear next.

All that has been changed is slave cylinder, clutch oil seal and gaskets. I don't think the slave cylinder has anything to do with it since we can't get any more movement on the arm and the plunger moves until the locknut hits the casing

Edited by GaryOS on 11th Feb, 2009.

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse

Could it be??...

In the 13's at last!.. Just

If the arm moves the plunger until the locknuts hit the face of the housing, and you've already tried with the locknuts removed, remove the hydraulic cylinder and put a piece of close fitting tube over the arm and pull it backwards and forwards - you should easily "feel" all the free movement before the release bearing touches the tophat thing and then feel the resistance of the diaphragm spring - if your tube is long enough you should be able to release the pressure plate by hand and you will be able to tell (by feel) at which position of the arm this occurs and then check the hydraulics can replicate this.

If the engine is in the car (with inner wings) you will need to bend a piece of tube to suit.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

I am running a verto setup but it is a possiblity that the arm is worn. I doubt its broken as spectacularly as that though 8-) I will check the clevis pins and arm tonight. They did all work before I blew the head gasket (twice) though

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse

Turns out it was a wanky pressure plate. Funnily enough it was OK last time the car ran.

On 12th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

I think Gary OS has taken over my role as the forum smart arse

as above what bat says !

other than that .......... your pressure plates GOOSED ! no balls left in it .............................

I find that too. No one really listens these days

dubble post Amature

Edited by PaulH on 17th Feb, 2009.

did Sprocket say something?