| Page: |
| Home > General Chat > Problems with pre verto conversions | |||||||
 2643 Posts Member #: 1246 Post Whore Lowestoft, Suffolk. |
15th Mar, 2009 at 11:36:43pm
In light of the issues i've been having this weekend I have been searching for answers on here and other sites all nite which has raised a point I was unaware of. Im not convined that the pedal travel I have is providing the correct amount movement needed to actuate the clutch. I read on another site that there is a difference in pedal box between verto and pre verto, the pre verto box giving more movement of the piston on the master cyinder (moving more fluid) does anyone know if this is the case, and has anyone esle who has used the pedal box from a late 80's mini that is "configured" for pre verto clutch and none servo brakes (split line system) experienced a problem simiar to mine when carrying out the conversion to pre verto?
|
||||||
 4559 Posts Member #: 786 Post Whore Bermingum |
16th Mar, 2009 at 12:10:34am
Hi,
VEMs Authorised Installer / Re-seller. K head kits now available!
|
||||||
|
2643 Posts Member #: 1246 Post Whore Lowestoft, Suffolk. |
16th Mar, 2009 at 12:26:11am
Yes I have, none present, and parts are reasonably new. To be honest this is really doing my head in, been tryin to resolve it all weekend. Been doing some more thinking since posting last, the release bearing thats fitted is the minispares heavy duty one which is thinner then the std one. If the std bearing was fitted being thicker what effect would it have on the geometry, would greater disengaugement be achieved?
|
||||||
|
Forum Mod 10980 Posts Member #: 17 ***16*** SouthPark, Colorado |
16th Mar, 2009 at 01:36:04am
On 15th Mar, 2009 shane said:
I read on another site that there is a difference in pedal box between verto and pre verto, the pre verto box giving more movement of the piston on the master cyinder. BS. What site was that? What there is a lot of, is manufacturing variation. Start by looking at your clutch and brake pedal rubbers - often the clutch is slightly lower - in my mini - before I fixed it, the clutch was 1" lower, which gave insufficient fluid volume once I went over to the Grey. I removed, and lengthened the master cyl pushrod, and haven't had a problem since. On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY |
||||||
|
Forum Mod 10980 Posts Member #: 17 ***16*** SouthPark, Colorado |
16th Mar, 2009 at 01:40:26am
On 16th Mar, 2009 shane said:
the release bearing thats fitted is the minispares heavy duty one which is thinner then the std one. If the std bearing was fitted being thicker what effect would it have on the geometry, would greater disengaugement be achieved? No, but if you had said this from the start, I wouldn't have typed what i just did above^^^^^ It is likely you're running out of travel on your slave cylinder as the piston is bottoming out before the clutch disengages. Search for the 'clutch troubleshooter' on ManchesterMinis website, and note the instructions on checking the pushrod length, Pedal height, AND the best way of setting up the throw-out stop (start by junking the spring)! On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY |
||||||
 514 Posts Member #: 2104 Post Whore Essex - UK |
16th Mar, 2009 at 11:17:31am
On 16th Mar, 2009 Bat said:
Hi, Have you checked for play in the clevis pin, the master cylinder yoke and the pedal? Wear here is common and causes the problem you've got. Cheers, Gavin :) i had the problem you described and bat has posted the exact problem i had with mine my clevis pin had 2 groves in it this meant that the clutch did not quite disengage, i changed that then readjusted from scratch making sure it was bled and it is now 100% perfect Edited by turbominij on 16th Mar, 2009. "Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"
|
||||||
 1547 Posts Member #: 2727 Post Whore Bicester |
16th Mar, 2009 at 12:29:15pm
Hey Guys, i had a very similar problem when i tried to convert my verto to pre-verto. is it possible to use a verto slave cylinder on a pre-verto system? 1972 998 TURBO SLEEPER |
||||||
|
Forum Mod 10980 Posts Member #: 17 ***16*** SouthPark, Colorado |
16th Mar, 2009 at 01:17:59pm
They are the same bore - the only thing I don't know is if the piston bottoms out sooner or later.... On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY |
||||||
|
514 Posts Member #: 2104 Post Whore Essex - UK |
16th Mar, 2009 at 01:28:41pm
the mounts on the verto cylinder are marginally further back so I wondered if this would mean it would give a bit more movement as the whole thing would have moved forward when mounted
"Tuning should be a compromise between what is possible and what is necessary"
|
||||||
 2742 Posts Member #: 637 Post Whore Hertfordshire |
16th Mar, 2009 at 06:22:07pm
a verto slave cylinder does work on a pre verto set up.
My build thread..
|
||||||
|
2643 Posts Member #: 1246 Post Whore Lowestoft, Suffolk. |
16th Mar, 2009 at 10:57:07pm
On 16th Mar, 2009 TurboDave said: On 15th Mar, 2009 shane said:
I read on another site that there is a difference in pedal box between verto and pre verto, the pre verto box giving more movement of the piston on the master cyinder. BS. What site was that? Dave read it on TMF. Right went back to the start to double check everything. Clevis pins are as new, with no wear, movement in the pedal (up and down) is minimal, max 1mm. There is a max of 4mm between the yoke of the master push rod and the bodywork so extending this I believe wouldnt gain much. Pedals sit as shown (believed to be normal for a mini) The push rod sits where it should as per info on manchester minis site. Clevis pin to clutch arm is good condition. No wear on ball end of arm or plunger. No air in system Piston does not hit the circlip (its nowhere near) What I did try was extending a push rod by 6mm, and this has actually worked. Have set the stops as per manual, now opperates with carpet in, there is a judder when pulling away which I need to get to the bottom of and a noisy release bearing, progress but not sure if in the right direction. 
Cheers Shane |
||||||
| Home > General Chat > Problems with pre verto conversions | |||||||
|
|||||||
| Page: |