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Home > A-Series EFI / Injection > Megasquirt modifications for Siamese/ sequential code

robert

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uranus

hmmm this is sounding more and more attractive as a way to get good mixture control at al boost levels . i wonder how much it could be done for assembling ones own ecu from a kit and using jaw widebands ..hmm

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


jbelanger

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Montreal, Canada

It looks like you've got a very good handle on what's needed to get this to work. As mentioned there might be a couple of things you may want to clarify or revisit but overall it sounds like a good plan. The schedule might be a bit aggressive but that's up to you.

It's good to see another player on the team :)

Robert, while the JAW wideband looks good, I've yet to read anything concrete and unbiased on it's accuracy. I've seen some bad data but that was from a competitor so that may be valid or not. And I've seen people claiming that it's great but they were just using it blindly so that's meaningless. So until I see some evidence that it's really all it claims to be, I'd be reluctant to use it or recommend it.

However, if someone were to do some tests on it, it would be great because that would make for a nice affordable package.

Jean

http://www.jbperf.com/


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland


On 14th Nov, 2009 robert said:
hmmm this is sounding more and more attractive as a way to get good mixture control at al boost levels . i wonder how much it could be done for assembling ones own ecu from a kit and using jaw widebands ..hmm


At least then you could concentrate in keeping it in a straight line, rather than fiddling with the MBC and the choke *happy*

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


robert

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uranus

hahahahahaha ...so true

edit:just remembered that i didnt do the choke thing on the track ...all my runs at 15 psi are at 13.7 to 14:1 afr :$

Edited by robert on 14th Nov, 2009.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Rod S

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On 14th Nov, 2009 jbelanger said:

It's good to see another player on the team :)


To me that's the most important bit at the moment (he says during a break from yet more welding.....)

Why are the electronics so easy and the rust so hard.......*happy*

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


robert

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uranus




On 14th Nov, 2009 jbelanger said:


Robert, while the JAW wideband looks good, I've yet to read anything concrete and unbiased on it's accuracy. I've seen some bad data but that was from a competitor so that may be valid or not. And I've seen people claiming that it's great but they were just using it blindly so that's meaningless. So until I see some evidence that it's really all it claims to be, I'd be reluctant to use it or recommend it.

However, if someone were to do some tests on it, it would be great because that would make for a nice affordable package.

Jean



good points jean . i have an assembled jaw at home and a lm1 ,so will do a comparison when i return from vancouver .

looks like the minimum cost would be partial kit from diy autotune ,board from jean ,2 jaw's .inj from scrappy and pump/ plenum scrounged made etc .hmm .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Well, While I was out today, the postman tried to deliver My JimStim board and CPU. No one was here to sign for it. So now I have to wait until Monday.
Paul, I don't have any other MPI bits, I bought the MPI inlet manifold and fuel rail in auto jumble at Malvern.. I'm going to the NEC tomorrow, so I'll see what I can pick up.
Rod, I avoided mentioning the charger in this thread A - because of the length of this mornings post (s) and B - because I was not sure it was really relivent to this subject. I will post in another section, and I will Start a thread on My build..

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Carl S
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Good to see another person taking on the Siamese port challenge!

That will eventualy mean that 4 of us will be actively doing testing and should be able to compare results for similarities.


sturgeo

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Northants

Well we'll (Me & Paul S) have a 2nd car running the siamese code soon hopefully :)


Rod S

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On 14th Nov, 2009 sturgeo said:
Well we'll (Me & Paul S) have a 2nd car running the siamese code soon hopefully :)


We have a race on now then......

Which actually is a very good thing..... the more who get involved, the better.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Carl S
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Bristol

I will almost certainly be last in that race haha.

I'm planning to do it on my daily drive so i'll get it roughly working and then tune it when I dont need the car on the road. I'm also a student so money isnt in abundance currently, unless i get a job it will be slow progress for anything expensive which needs purchasing.


Paul S

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I'm not racing, I'm taking my time.

It'll be ready when it's ready *happy*

My task for this weekend it to make the fuel rail supports. Might even try to weld up the inlet manifold, but my gas bottle shows empty so I don't expect to get very far.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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On 14th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:
Might even try to weld up the inlet manifold, but my gas bottle shows empty so I don't expect to get very far.


You won't with a bottle,,,,,, compressed gas comes in a cylinder *happy*

Milk or beer is what comes in bottles.....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Paul S

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Calor gas comes in a bottle.

http://www.calor.co.uk/gas.htm

BOC seem to be the only people that do not refer to "bottle".

Technically it is a cylinder, but it is referred to by the majority as a bottle.

If you persist in this arguement, I shall start calling you Rodney as that is technically your real name *hehe!*

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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On 15th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:
If you persist in this arguement, I shall start calling you Rodney as that is technically your real name *hehe!*


Worse actually, it's Roderick *happy*

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


robert

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uranus

i dont think there much to laugh about when your sobriquet can be used to replace various common sayings ,eg
a kick in the pauls !
a total pauls up !
etc ! *Jester*

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

As per various PM's and emails To both Rod and Paul, I am at a bit of a standstill on the MS2 build. I have the main build all but complete. Just the addition of the 4 channel driver board left, and a small problem to overcome..

I cannot get tuner studio/ the ms2 to sync a tach signal.
Before I start looking at a build problem, can I confirm with you guys the JimStim settings:
I have DIP switch 3 set to "on" on the JimStim; Primary tach Jumpered; 2nd trigger jumpered to spr1.
Do I need a pull up jumper for either tach signal or secondary trigger? If so 5v or 12v.
I have run the tests on the JimStim to ensure that the Tach circuits work.

I have the MS2 Hall circuit as per Paul diagram, with opto-out to JS10. Tach select to VRIN.
So far I have tried adjusting R56 and R52 to get a Tach signal.
Is there any changes I need to make/ tests I can do before starting to look at my soldering?
thanks

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


sturgeo

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Northants

Hmmm, have you adjusted the 2 pots? It took us a while to get the rpm signal to work. I think we had to cycle power between each adjustment.

Edit: oops just saw you mentioned them. They required lots of turns on ours if that makes any sense

Edited by sturgeo on 24th Nov, 2009.


Rod S

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DIP switch 3 is correct to represent the 36:1 wheel.
You jumper the second trigger to whatever pin on the MS2 board you have decided to use in the build but it shoudn't affect your issue even if it was wrong.

However, do you have the primary tach signal jumper installed, either for VR or square wave http://www.jbperf.com/JimStim/JimStim_v1_4...ator_Setup.html (about half way down) it has to be in one of these two positions.

That's all I can think of at the moment, getting your primary tach working is fundamental and has nothing to do with the differences between me and Paul on the secondary tach, Hall vs Opto.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


jbelanger

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Montreal, Canada

You need the 12V pull up for the primary and the 5V pull up for the secondary.

Jean

http://www.jbperf.com/


jbelanger

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Montreal, Canada

By the way, I should add that if you have any question related to one of my boards, you can post it on my forum: http://forum.jbperf.com/index.php.

Jean

http://www.jbperf.com/


Paul S

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Formerly Axel

Podland


On 25th Nov, 2009 jbelanger said:
You need the 12V pull up for the primary and the 5V pull up for the secondary.

Jean


Are they not built into the standard board circuitry? We did not add anything extra.

My money is on the pots. This is what the Megamanual says:

"With a VR sensor on the VR input circuit: Start with the R56 pot all the way counter-clockwise, and R52 about 6 to 8 turns clockwise from the fully counter clockwise position. The fully counter clockwise position is reached when the pot clicks (you can feel and might be able to hear this). The pots are 25 turns from the fully clockwise position to fully counter-clockwise position."

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

On 25th Nov, 2009 Paul S said:

On 25th Nov, 2009 jbelanger said:
You need the 12V pull up for the primary and the 5V pull up for the secondary.

Jean


Are they not built into the standard board circuitry? We did not add anything extra.


I assume Jean is referring to the jumpers on the JimStim board that need to be set for primary and secondary tach signals.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


jbelanger

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Montreal, Canada

Yes, that's what I meant. You need the jumpers on the JimStim to generate the tach signal(s).

Well, that is always true for the primary tach signal when using the VR circuit. For the secondary (or the primary) when using the opto-coupler for Hall/opto sensor, you may or may not need the pull up jumper depending on which circuit modification has been done. If there is a pull up on the MS circuit then there is no need to put the jumper on the JimStim. But if there is no pull up (i.e., the sensor directly generates a square wave signal), then the pull up jumper is needed on the JimStim.

Jean

http://www.jbperf.com/

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