Brake bias valve.
Turbo Mini Forums

Well over the coming months im going to bin the big block on the front bulkhead so im going to need some sort of bias.

Which are the best type of valve to use in its replacement. I like the look of the wilwood kit as it seems to be cheaper than the Tilton valve but is it any good?

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/BRAKE-&-..._363/index.html

So what are you guys using?

Also thinking of either fitting a line lock or a hydraulic handbrake to help with burnouts as the cable one requires constant adjustment!

Mine looks like the wilwood one but it's not wilwood, always worked fine.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

I use a Tilton one works fine. I no someone who used a AP one that was fine too. So maybe there all as good as each other.
I have the same problem with the hand brake, i don't know best way to get over it as i cant use a hydraulic hand brake as got to pass a MOT.

Edited by Chris Dillow on 2nd Jan, 2011.

I got a tilton copy valve, looked very good quality, but failed on me and locked both rear wheels solid, fotunantly i was on my drive....

I reckon its worth the extra for the proper AP/tiltons.

I use a line lock on my racer.. works really well and burnouts are easy :)

I also use it to block off back brakes if i'm racing in the wet!

Chris

im need to do the same, do you still need to add the rear subframe mounted valve if you use a bias value?

i have been told previously that even with the values (linked) the rears will lock

Well I reckon I will get either the willwood or tilton and run fresh lines through the car. Going to look into the handbrake, I reckon it will be good to use like a stage brake. Just need to look at the car to see what will fit where!

Is what mark mentioned true? With regards to needing a rear mounted valve in addition to the adjustable bias valve?

My build thread: http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=454802

Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/85313398@N02/

I've got a.Willwood one that is almost a direct replacement for the block on the bulkhead. it splits the front circuit and has the bias valve for the rears. was only about £70 from rally design.

If you have 4 pots up front and 3/4" rear cylinders with no compensator I found that the willwood (and maybe others?) bias valve can't bias enough to avoid rear locking. Solution, use smaller rear wheel cylinders. I use a bias valve and 1/2" rear cylinders.