Page:
Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Metro turbo fuel pump wiring

jamestar

User Avatar

489 Posts
Member #: 9159
Senior Member

Devon

Before anyone says, yes i have used the search, i did post my question on this thread but i think it got overlooked:


http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=9372




i've just got my hands on a metro turbo fuel pump and i want to clarify that i'll be wiring it in correctly.


But i have a few questions:

Where is the best place to mount the fuel pump, in the boot or underneath the car?
what type of oil pressure switch do i use, standard mini one? what rating?
Do i need to have any fuses fitted inline with the ignition and starter feed? If so what sizes?
Is my diagram correct?

I've also added an extra swicth which is inline with the ignition feed to the relay in the event of someone trying to steal it and hot wire it, the switch will need to be pressed for the relay to work and thus the fuel pump, is it fine to put it inline with the igntiion feed or would it be better anywhere else?

and lastly is there anyway of wiring a warning light to the inertia switch to show if it's been tripped?



thanks :)


Rod S

User Avatar

5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Security switch position is fine so long as it is an open/close switch (ie, when you turn it "on" it remains "on") and not a momentary switch (push-button) as you imply when you say "will need to be pressed".

Inertia switch - look at what ever you have got...... Most of the Ford and Rover ones actually have three terminals, common, normally open, and normally closed (my two certainly have) so you could just use the third contact to a bulb provided the input (right of your picture) was the common and not left as you have drawn it. However, the bulb would only light whilst oil pressure was still there (or whilst operating the starter).

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


jamestar

User Avatar

489 Posts
Member #: 9159
Senior Member

Devon

Yeah sorry didn't mean to cause confusion, it'll probably be a small toggle switch.. so on or off :)

do you know if i need to have any fuses fitted inline with the ignition and starter feed? and what sizes?


Rod S

User Avatar

5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

It's the fuel pump that needs to be fused, or more correctly, the pump and associated wiring.

So it depends on where you take the IGN+ve from, ie before or after the existing fusebox. If after, the existing fuse would have to be rated high enough for all the other things it supplies plus the pump. Personally I would take the supply from before the existing fusebox (as close to the ignition switch as possible) and fit a new inline fuse dedicated to the pump.

But remember the new wiring too, it has to be rated higher then the fuse rating and that includes your "small toggle switch". A typical fuel pump fuse rating would be 10A so your toggle switch and wiring to the pump must also be rated at 10A or it all melts before the fuse blows.

Re. the starter feed, it depends on the age of the car - I'm 90% certain the later (pre-enganged) starter circuitry is already fused because it operates through a relay, but I don't think the earlier cars (inertia starter) bothered as it's live for such short periods of time. If in doubt, fit one.

Hope that makes sense.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


turbominivanman

User Avatar

1105 Posts
Member #: 1504
Post Whore

Westbury, Wiltshire

James.

I'm attaching the links to the wiring diagram and fuse box circuit maps I designed and built for my van when I completely re-wired it.

They're MS Excel files hosted by John Harper.

http://www.johnharperltd.co.uk/wiring/FuseMap.xls

http://www.johnharperltd.co.uk/wiring/WiringCircuits.xls

If you open the second of the files and scroll up, you'll see the two diagrams which explain the cranking and normal running modes of the fuel pump and hopefully they'll answer some of your questions.

And in the van, my pump is on rubber mounts (exhaust cotton reels) alongside the tank under the back of the car with a big MPi cannister fuel filter between the pump inlet and the tank to protect the pump internals from crud. The earth connector on the pump is mounted to a clean bare part of the bodyshell and the diagrams in the links show where the fused supply comes from.

If you can't open the files I can email them to you if you PM me.

Good luck.

Richard.

Edited by turbominivanman on 27th Jan, 2011.

Minivanless, but reluctantly happy living with the decision. There'll be another one day.
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=minimadmotorman#p/u


matty

User Avatar

8297 Posts
Member #: 408
Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

I used a relay with a fuse built in on mine.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


jamestar

User Avatar

489 Posts
Member #: 9159
Senior Member

Devon

Thanks Richard, thats a great help! :)

Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Metro turbo fuel pump wiring
Users viewing this thread: none. (+ 1 Guests)  
To post messages you must be logged in!
Username: Password:
Page: