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Home > FAQ / Knowledge > Building an RTS clutch - Photo Heavy

bakker110

313 Posts
Member #: 9367
Senior Member

Derby

So when you measure up for the additional length you just measure the thickness of the two springs anywhere on the spring or do you want to do it where the bolt goes through? Do you measure the pivot rings as well and add in the top one too or is that not necessary?


On 5th Apr, 2013 Joe C said:
Yep,

springs range from 1.6mm to 2.4mm and IIRC Ive seen 2.2 and 3 mm pivot rings.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

yep the springs seem to be the same thickness all the way across, Ive just measured them at the edge,

add the 2 springs together and the 2 pivot rings and this is the spacer you need.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



bakker110

313 Posts
Member #: 9367
Senior Member

Derby

Just out of interest why do you add in the thickness of the bottom pivot ring as that is below the original diagphram so isn't this surely covered by the thickness of the original spacer?


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

look at the diagram on the previous page, thats how it is on the flywheels that I have seen,

as a double check though, measure one of the spacers from the original flywheel, that plus the thickness of the added spring should add up to the same as above.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



bakker110

313 Posts
Member #: 9367
Senior Member

Derby

Sorry I thought you meant all of those on top of the original spacer. I understand it now.


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

Spacer length is the sum of the component parts that make up the 'stack' those are as Joe says, the two wire rings and the two springs. Simples :)

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Yo-Han

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942 Posts
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North of the Netherlands

Seems the trend is now to not tap the rivet holes anymore but drill though and nut and bolt the assy together(?)

Still using M8 high tensile but addin 10mm to bolt length I guess?
(and maybe locktite)

Dazed and Confused....


slater

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1030 Posts
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Suffolk / Birmingham

Theres no room for that on my AP setup.


Yo-Han

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North of the Netherlands

Bit confused now.

How did Sprocket build this one up for 1293 Spirte?:
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=561752

Domed capheads (is that correct word?)?

Dazed and Confused....


slater

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Suffolk / Birmingham

Possibly. I know on mine theres only a few mm of space before the pressure plate. Might just squeeze dome heads in there or maybe turn most of the head off a cap head and weld them captive? Sprocket will know im sure :)


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

I think he countersunk them.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



jonny f

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2081 Posts
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Dorking

Anybody find out what the latest bolt technique is?

countersunk?


Nick king

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65 Posts
Member #: 9646
Advanced Member

Bristol England

I built one last year and just tapped M8 used high tensile cap heads and some loctite high strength thread lock. I think I posted some pics somewhere I've got a sketch of the spacers and washers too if that helps.


slater

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Suffolk / Birmingham

Mine is just tapped and has been alright but i reckon c/s is a more reliable approach.


jonny f

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Dorking

Thats what i'm thinking slater. I'd just like an idea of how someone else has done it before comiting.

Nick, any more info is always helpful :)


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

tapping is fine on the AP ones as the rivet hole is a little below tapping size so you can just bang a tap through and get a nice snug thread, but on the valeo ones Ive seen the hole is a bit baggy, so the thread is not ideal so they would be best with countersunk screws and nuts on the outside.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Nick king

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65 Posts
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Advanced Member

Bristol England

Jonny, here's some pics, as you can see I used Valeo pressure plates (used ones) and as Joe said the holes are bigger than the tapping size for M8, the one I used was 7mm, only 0.2mm bigger than it should be for M8 so I used high strength loctite too, the upsidedown drawing shows the spacers (length equals the total of the two spring plates and the two pivot rings (double check yours before manufacture)) and washers that replace the removed rivets, the washers replace the triangular shaped rivet heads, When I made the bits I made sure the spacers were all exactly the same length just to make sure the pressure release was equal all the way around ( as you can imagine the rivet, now bolt with washer and spacer, is at the pivot point of the movement. And the box is the new friction disc I used from mini spares 190mm. It is a brilliant mod, the grip is amazing, my original clutch started slipping once I pushed past 12psi, I've ran up to 17psi so far and the clutch is spot on. For science per purposes, the old pressure plate measured only 1 mm thinner than the new one and was no way near worn out. The flywheel and pressure plate surfaces are the same ones before and after the mod, although both in good condition.


Edited by Nick king on 11th Feb, 2015.


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

I use 1/4" NAS bolts which have a low head. Depending on the clutch parts used, it is sometimes just a matter of running the pressure plate in the lathe to give the bolt heads a little clearance.

the best way to check whether the bolt heads are fouling the pressure plate is to assemble it all toghether on the flywheel as you would to install it on the engine and then using the flywheel puller, tophat sleave, some flat bar and a DTI gauge, set the throw out to 6.5mm. The posts of the pressure plate should still be touching the springs and the friction plate should have about 2mm clearance.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Nick king

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Advanced Member

Bristol England

Sprocket I'm confused. Clearance where for what? Have I over looked something?

Edit, ok I've now seen the way you make the plate using a nut n bolt method, I understand where you need to make sure the correct clearance is. Pros n cons hay. Atleast with the nut n bolt way you know exactly how strong the fastening components are. ie bolts not pulling out of 6mm pressure plate. I remember the rule of thumb, thread depth should equal 1.5 x the diameter from my apprentice days. Oh well loctite is my friend........*oh well* but then 1/4 vs M8..........horses for courses *hehe!*

Edited by Nick king on 11th Feb, 2015.


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

The big advantage with the 1/4" bolts is that you need not drill anything more that the rivets to dissassemble the clutch parts. the holes in the plate just so happen to be 1/4"

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


jonny f

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Dorking

Thank you very much for all the info guys. I think I'll use your idea Sprocket as from an engineering perspective it makes better sense to nut and bolt it. :).


Rammie2000

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belgium

Okey. Not want to start a new tread to keep it all clean here.
But have some questions. I stripped 2 valeo clutches and so stranded here.










As far as i understand i now need to tap the holes and replace them with m8×20 bolts.

But what about the spacers? Are they needed with valeo? Are they the length of that thicker part on the rivet ( drilled the head of on the inside and knokked them out) +the thickness of the second spring ?

Greets.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018


Rammie2000

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belgium

ow wait i get it... its so that you can not tighten the bolts further then needed right?

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018


jonny f

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Dorking

You need the spacers and you are correct with the length.


Rammie2000

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belgium


cool. had to be sure


On 14th Feb, 2016 jonny f said:
You need the spacers and you are correct with the length.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

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