My diff locks up when torqued down
Turbo Mini Forums

Right last night I got the new diff setup to go in the box, all was well until i Torqued it all up and the whole lot would not move

So i had a play and added some gaskets and it worked, but there is some play in the output shaft.

The box is a stud type, and had no gaskets when it was setup before. I am also reusing the old bearings.


So whats the thoughts?

Thanks simon.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Is the body of the diff fowling the case somewhere? Tbh I dont know the atb to give any good advice

I seriously doubt it!

No mate i was thinking that at first.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

You usually have to have the case machined to fit an LSD. I know I did...

edit - mine is a salisbury type btw, but I think it still applies to quaiffe..

Edited by jamie@thefatgarage on 17th Sep, 2011.

I have fitted it as per this mate.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=170576

Edited by madmk1 on 17th Sep, 2011.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

simon , is this locking up immediately the moment you bolt the rear casing to the gearbox ,or only after you do the last 1/4 turn of the bolts , or its fine bolted up ,but then when you put on the side covers it wont move ..?how much gaskets does it need to work , is it fouling on the back cover cos its a lsd and bigger in the body ?

more detail that man !

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Ok doc!

1. When i put it in it spins free and nice like it should.

2. with the back on it still spins nice.

3. with the nuts done up it stops doing anything and locks the rest of the box up.

4. I have not got as far as doing the side covers yet.

5. with the gaskets in there its as if the diff is loose in the hole.

hope this is of some help.
simon

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

The casings that use studs/nuts to hold the diff housing on (casting number DAM2886) require the gaskets.

The casings that use UNC bolts (DAM5626) use RTV and no gaskets.

Obviously there are still gaskets and shims on the side plates on either casing to set the side float but if you omit the gaskets on a DAM2886 rear housing it is likely you will distort the bearing outer races which may be your problem.

But also bear in mind, so many parts could have been swapped/mis-matched in the past, it's hard to generalise.

EDIT - worth adding that if it is the casing that requires gaskets (and the rear housing actually is the matched part, not a replacement which would have had to be line bored to fit properly) you must use the OEM gaskets - a lot of the non-genuine are too thick which could explain the bearings being loose with gaskets.

Edited by Rod S on 17th Sep, 2011.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Well i have a Dam5626 with studs lol.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

measure the ovality of the diff bearing housings with the rear case bolted up tight without gaskets or the diff installed. Use a bore gauge. The hole should be near as damn it round. If its not, measure it again but this time fit gaskets. If its still not round, the rear housing might be a miss match perhaps.

All the atb's I've fitted have needed the rear case dressed to miss the edge of the diff case on one of the "bosses" which holds the thread for the side plate, obviously this is the opposite end to the crown wheel, it's not much, but enough to lock the diff

Jk

If Carling made Mini engines
it would probably be like this one!

I would get a marker pen and colour in the inside of the diff cover then fit it and tighten to just before it totally locks up, then rotate the diff and remove the cover. See if any of the marker pen has rubbed off.

I seriously doubt it!

also make sure you shim it the right side (flywheel side) otherwise you might find the crownwheel locks up on the pinion bearing.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

My atb fitted fine with no problems. Simon where did you buy yours from?

I had the same problem, turned out to be same thread boss.

Class C 3rd Place Avon 2011 14.18 @101mph

We had the same problem. I had to relieve the inside of the diff casing as well, not just the boss.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Some pics of what i had to do to get it working.


You can see where it is just rubbing.



I had a 1mm cutting disk that was nice and small to fit in there.


and its in job done.


Thanks simon

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Good stuff

If Carling made Mini engines
it would probably be like this one!